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St. Thomas has its own bucolic pocket of rusticity—and it’s just off the hustle and bustle of the Charlotte Amalie harbor. Called the Virgin Islands Campground on Water Island ([tel] 340/776-5488; www.virginislandscampground.com), guests stay in the most eco-sensitive lodgings in St. Thomas. They’re hardly roughing it: The digs are wood-frame-and-canvas cabins (cottages) with wind-drawn electricity, nice beds, and crisp linens. Each opens onto private, ocean-view terraces. The campground has no restaurant, but you can grill your own meals in the common area known as the Pavilion; you can also store your food in a refrigerator or freezer. From the campgrounds, it’s a 5-minute walk to the island’s idyllic Honeymoon Beach, where you can take a swim, snorkel or just nurse a nice tan. Regular ferry service runs between Water Island and St. Thomas (trip time: 7 min.). Water Island is very small; to get around, simply hike along the island’s pristine trails. You can also take bike rides.