Things To Do in Sutherland

In Dornoch

The village of Dornoch has long been known for its golf club on the sheltered shores of Dornoch Firth, the northernmost first-class course in the world. The turf of the Royal Dornoch Golf Club, Golf Road (tel. 01862/810-219), is considered sacred by aficionados. Golf was first played here by monks in 1614. A curious meander of the Gulf Stream as it bypasses northern Scotland keeps the climate balmier than you'd expect. The club itself was founded in 1877, and a royal charter was granted by Edward VII in 1906. Prince Andrew and the duchess of Sutherland are both members. Its SSS (Standard Scratch Score) is 73; its par is 70 for an 18-hole yardage of 6,185. Greens fees are from £52 to £92. Golf club and trolley rentals are £20 to £25 and £3, respectively. Caddy service is available for £35 plus tip.

Dornoch Cathedral, Castle Street, was built in the 13th century and partially destroyed by fire in 1570. It has undergone many restorations, but you can still see its fine 13th-century stonework. The cathedral is famous for its modern stained-glass windows -- three are in memory of Andrew Carnegie, the American steel king. The cathedral is open daily from 9am to dusk. The Plaiden Ell, found in the cathedral's cemetery where a marketplace used to be, was a medieval method for measuring cloth. (An ell was a unit of measure equaling about 96cm/38 in.) The Ell is carved in stone in a flat shape similar to a tombstone's, but with two pieces of metal rising about 5 centimeters (2 in.) above the level of the stone. The distance between those two pieces of metal is an ell. In one of the gardens is the 1722 witch's stone marking the spot where the last burning of a so-called witch took place in Scotland.

If the weather is fair, Dornoch is great for country strolls -- the town is flanked by miles of clean sand opening onto chilly waters. You often see migrant birds on these beaches. At Embo, some 5km (3 miles) north of the beaches of Dornoch, are the remains of two funereal vaults believed to date from around 2000 B.C.

Three kilometers (1 3/4 miles) north of Embo are the shores of lovely Loch Fleet, where there's a meager ruin of Skelbo Castle. It's now on a lonely grassy mound, but in the 14th century Skelbo was a powerful fortification.

Shoppers should check out the Dornoch Craft Centre, Town Jail, Castle Street (tel. 01862/810-555), in the center of town opposite the cathedral. You can wander through the selection of crafts, jewelry, and pottery, and then visit the Textile Hall and browse through the range of knitwear, tartans, mohair goods, and tweeds.