Escape the crowds with a walk out toward the Castello Maniace at the tip of Ortigia, where a breeze-cooled terrace facing a cobbled square is the perfect setting for a summer meal of classic vegetable and seafood pastas and fresh fish. In cooler weather, the hospitality retreats to a rich-hued bare-bones room that sets the stage for perfectly grilled steaks. Indoors or out, land-based or from the sea, meals are served at rough-hewn tables on hand-painted ceramics, lending just the right homey touch to this honest cooking.