Things To Do in Tegernsee

Exploring the Lake

One of the most scenic routes in Bavaria is around the tiny Tegernsee, an easy morning drive. Surrounding the lake is a string of resort towns, including the elegant Rottach-Egern with its ritzy health clinics. Bad Wiessee (see chapter 12) is a year-round resort with curative springs, used in the treatment of rheumatism and heart and respiratory conditions.

A contemporary church is a fine example of modern German church architecture, designed by Olaf Gulbransson of Munich. There's also an Olaf Gulbransson Museum (in Kurgarten; tel. 08022/3338; www.olaf-gulbransson-museum.de). Open Tuesday to Sunday 10am to 5pm, it charges 6€ for adults, 5€ for seniors, 1€ for students and persons 6 to 17, and is free for children 5 and under. It's loaded with the cartoons and political satires of Norwegian-born caricaturist Olaf Gulbransson (1873-1958), who lived in Tegernsee and satirized many of Bavaria's and Germany's leaders. He was also editor of a satirical newspaper covering arts and politics, Simplicissimus.

The most convivial tavern in town is the Weinhaus Moschner, Kisslinger Strasse 2 (tel. 08022/55-22; www.moschner.de), at the edge of this resort, an old, time-mellowed tavern where not only regional wine but also a hearty dark brew made by a monastery in Tegernsee is served. This is a place for a real Bavarian hoedown, and many of the local men do show up in lederhosen, dancing in the disco on the second floor. An older crowd stays downstairs sampling Franconian wine or else ordering hearty Bavarian fare, especially a wide variety of thick sausages with sauerkraut.