Planning a trip to Thailand

Sustainable Travel & Ecotourism

Unfortunately, Thailand is way behind much of the world in general eco-awareness; conflicts between economic and ecological interests generally work out in favor of the former. Environmental problems include deforestation, air and water pollution, flooding, habitat loss, and consequent species loss. Among the 33 mammals in danger of extinction in Thailand are tigers, leopards, and elephants. The last of these is a particular shame, as it was once revered (and still is in some quarters) as a creature of great spiritual significance; the few thousand that remain spend their time either entertaining tourists at elephant camps or searching for food in a shrinking forest.

Fortunately, several nongovernment organizations (NGOs), such as the World Wildlife Fund, have an active presence in the country, attempting to draw attention to the most serious problems. Thai authorities are also finally taking tiny steps to preserve the nature and wildlife of its many different ecological zones, from swamp jungles in the south, to mountain forests in the north, to the many marine parks in the Gulf of Thailand and the Andaman Sea.

As the world's leading exporter of rice, Thailand is at the forefront of research into new strains of the crop that are both more nutritious and less harmful in terms of use of pesticides. More and more restaurants are serving brown rice as well as white rice. Also, look out for Doi Kham brand fruits, vegetables, juices, and preserves (on sale in many airports). These are products of the King's royal projects, which provide work for rural people while following organic farming principles.

Recycling in Thailand still refers to folks who go around buying up old papers, cans, and bottles, which they then sell for a pittance. Nowhere is trash separated at source before disposal. Your hotel may be your best bet for finding a place to deposit recyclable waste, especially if you choose a hotel that has instituted sustainable practices.

Visitors who choose to spend their time cycling, trekking, or kayaking in the kingdom inevitably have less detrimental impact on the country than those who breeze around in tour buses churning out carbon dioxide. However, choosing a responsible tour operator is not easy, as just about all of them these days use the buzzword "eco-tourism" in their sales pitches. Ask them exactly what they are doing to reduce their carbon footprint and to benefit the local community in the areas that their tours visit. For a list of local green operators, contact the Thai Ecotourism and Adventure Travel Association (tel. 02642-5465; www.teata.or.th).

Some hotel groups, such as the Banyan Tree resorts in Bangkok and Phuket, have made huge efforts over the past decade to implement sustainable projects, including a pledge to reduce their carbon footprint in all their resorts by 10% each year.

When booking hotels, particularly on the beach, consider carefully whether you really need a room with air-conditioning and other power-draining equipment such as fridges, TVs, and DVD players. These days many eco-friendly, luxury resorts do not offer air-conditioning; instead, they provide well-designed, wooden bungalows with balconies that attract a delicious breeze, allowing you to appreciate your surroundings more than in an enclosed room, and mosquito nets over the beds can save you from nighttime discomfort. You can also sleep more soundly knowing your stay is making minimal impact on the environment.

In more than 110 national parks, visitors can see the local wildlife species in residence, as well as appreciate the delicate balance of each habitat. The more popular parks have clearly displayed interpretation facilities at their visitor centers, as well as trails with bridges and catwalks, and markers explaining the important elements of the environment and its inhabitants. They also provide log-cabin-style bungalow accommodations, plus tents and supplies for campers. Get in touch with the Department of National Parks at tel. 02561-0777, or visit their website (www.dnp.go.th/parkreserve/nationalpark.asp), where you can find information about the parks and also make online reservations.

General Resources for Green Travel

Responsible Travel (www.responsibletravel.com) is a great source of sustainable travel ideas; the site is run by a spokesperson for ethical tourism in the travel industry. Sustainable Travel International (www.sustainabletravelinternational.org) promotes ethical tourism practices, and manages an extensive directory of sustainable properties and tour operators around the world.

Carbonfund (www.carbonfund.org), TerraPass (www.terrapass.org), and Carbon Neutral (www.carbonneutral.org) provide info on "carbon offsetting," or offsetting the greenhouse gas emitted during flights.

For information on animal-friendly issues throughout the world, visit Tread Lightly (www.treadlightly.org).

Tips for Single Travelers

Solo journeys in Thailand offer infinite opportunities to make friends and meet locals, and it's easy to change your plans without upsetting others. However, solo travelers are something of an oddity here. Thais love asking foreign visitors, "Are you married?" They themselves commonly marry quite young and start families early, so many assume single travelers to be sad or lonely. Be ready to be offered sympathy, if you're traveling alone, and don't take it personally. Show them photos of family and friends so they can see you're not alone in the world. Also be prepared to be pestered sometimes; Thais don't share Western notions of privacy, so they never think of "giving someone space."

As for expenses, some hotels offer discounts for singles. If, however, you like tours, or cruises, you're likely to get hit with paying a per-room rate regardless. Single travelers can avoid these supplements, of course, by agreeing to room with other single travelers on the trip.

Tips for Student Travelers

Discounts for students in Thailand and the rest of Southeast Asia are better earned by the tenacity of the individual traveler's bargaining skills and tolerance for substandard accommodation rather than flashing a student ID -- though showing one does help when buying mass transit tickets in Bangkok. The International Student Identity Card (ISIC), however, offers substantial savings on plane tickets and some entrance fees. It also provides you with basic health and life insurance and a 24-hour help line. The card is available for $14 from STA Travel (tel. 800/781-4040 in North America; www.statravel.com), the biggest student travel agency in the world.

If you're no longer a student but are still under 26, you can get an International Youth Travel Card (IYTC) for the same price from the same people, entitling you to some discounts (but not on museum admissions). Travel CUTS (tel. 800/592-2887; www.travelcuts.com) offers similar services for both Canadians and U.S. residents. Irish students may prefer to turn to USIT (tel. 01/602-1906; www.usit.ie), an Ireland-based specialist in student, youth, and independent travel.

Tips on Shopping

While Thais love bargaining, they do not appreciate haggling over a few baht. Sometimes such tourists will be impolitely referred to as kee neow (meaning "stingy" or "cheapskates" in Thai). If the initial asking price is more than twice what you are prepared to pay, it probably isn't worth entering negotiations.

Customs officers in many countries are now actively searching bags of tourists returning from Thailand and confiscating any pirated CDs and DVDs, designer knockoffs, and copy watches. In places like the U.S., U.K., and Australia, the import of counterfeit merchandise is a crime and you, as the buyer, will have your holiday purchases confiscated. A purchase may be "low dollar" to you, but when thousands of copies are sold, it damages the businesses that create and pay for the copyright of these models. Every year, media reports also confirm that earnings from these underground counterfeit industries go toward money laundering, drug production, prostitution, and child trafficking. By not buying fake brands, you are not just abiding by the law, but helping stamp out racketeering that ruins lives.

Shopping Scams

Gems, fake goods, illegal betting: Every year naive tourists take the bait and get caught in a scam. To beat the cheats, follow these simple rules:

• If anyone approaches you on the street and offers to take you to a shop (or anywhere, for that matter), refuse.
• If a tuk-tuk or taxi driver wants to take you shopping say, "No thanks" (or "Mai ao, khop khun").
• Be suspicious of strangers who flash TAT, Tourist Police, or any other "badge" in order to get something from you.
• Know that there is no such thing as a government auction, government clearinghouse, or anything "government"-related to the gems industry.
• There is no such thing as a tax-free day for gemstone purchases.
• Do not agree to let any gem purchases be shipped to your home address.
• As with any purchase you make, if you use a credit card, keep the card in your sight at all times and watch the store assistant make one print of it.

Special-Interest Vacations

Adventure & Wellness Travel

While for some, the ideal holiday is spent lolling on a beach sipping smoothies or cocktails, others want to push themselves to the limit, seeking thrills and adventure. Fortunately, Thailand's well-developed tourism industry offers lots of adventurous options for the more intrepid traveler. Adventure-tour operators have opened up nature's wild side to those who would dare, providing exciting experiences that are well planned and safe for everyone, from beginners to experts.

The first thing many people consider for an active vacation is scuba diving or snorkeling. Living coral reefs grace the waters of the Andaman Sea, off Thailand's southwest coast and the Gulf of Thailand. More than 80 species of coral have been discovered in the Gulf, while the deeper and more saline Andaman has more than 210. Marine life includes hundreds of species of fish, plus numerous varieties of crustaceans and sea turtles. With the aid of scuba gear, divers can get an up-close-and-personal view of this undersea universe. For those without certification, many reefs close to the surface are still vibrant.

From Phuket, you can take a day trip that includes two or three dives. Long-term scuba trips on live-aboard boats run seasonally. Always check that an operator has PADI-certified dive masters, and that their boats are carrying the full bevy of certificates of approval issued by international marine safety organizations. Scuba training and certification packages are common and can have you ready to dive in 5 days. Pretty much every beach has independent operators or guesthouses that rent snorkels, masks, and fins for the day. A few boat operators take snorkelers to reefs off neighboring islands, especially from Ko Lanta, Ko Phi Phi, Krabi, Ko Samui, and Pattaya.

Thailand's mountainous jungle terrain in the north has become a haven for trekkers. At the same time, human rights organizations have highlighted the damage this does to sustainability in remote villages inhabited by poor hill-tribes, where the places visited have become little more than paying human zoos.

Choose your operator carefully and look out for community-based projects, where the local people reap real benefits from your visit. Treks can last 1 to 5 nights but usually involve no more than 3 to 4 hours per day of walking on jungle paths. All tours provide local guides to accompany groups, and the guides will keep the pace steady but comfortable for all trekkers involved. Some trips break up the monotonous walking with treks on elephant-back, trips in four-wheel-drive jeeps, or light rafting on flat bamboo rafts. Chiang Mai has the most trekking firms, while Chiang Rai, Pai, and Mae Hong Son also have their share of trekking companies. Recommended trekking operators are Trekking Collective (tel. 05320-8340; www.trekkingcollective.com) and Active Travel (tel. 05320-4664-5; www.activethailand.com).

River rafting in rubber dinghies and kayaks is becoming increasingly popular in Thailand, with operators taking off in places such as Pai. Winding through dense jungles, past rock formations and local villages, these trips include camping and sometimes trekking. Rapids are rarely extreme but are big enough to be loads of fun, and safety measures are taken seriously.

A few lucky folks know that Thailand is home to one of the top-10 climbing walls in the world. Rock climbing at Railay Beach, in Krabi, is attracting lovers of the sport, who come to have a go at these challenging cliffs. The views from the cliffs are breathtaking. A few small outfits accept beginners for training or will organize climbs for more specialized experts, providing all the necessary equipment.

If the wild isn't calling you, know that Thailand is Southeast Asia's top spa and wellness destination, with a bewildering variety of programs, varying from posh beach resorts, such as the Chiva-Som, in Hua Hin, to low-key centers, such as the chain of colonic centers known as The Spa. Health programs at these centers may include yoga, tai chi, massage, fasting, and alternative therapies.

Academic Courses

It may seem strange to go on vacation in order to study, but when the subject is Thai cuisine, Thai massage, Buddhist meditation, or handling elephants, that's not so. Visitors get to appreciate these aspects of Thai culture so much more, as well as go home with new skills they can show off to their friends.

Cooking courses have been all the rage in Thailand for a decade now, with flexible courses that allow students to choose anything between half a day and a full week getting to grips with the subtleties of Thai cuisine. Try a 1-day course to start, which usually involves taking a trip to the local fresh market to buy ingredients, then following the teacher's steps to produce a few Thai classics, such as kaeng khiaw waan (sweet green curry), thawt man kung (shrimp cakes) or yam hua phli (banana-flower salad). Then, if you enjoy homework, which involves eating what you've cooked, sign up for another day. Bangkok and Chiang Mai have the widest choice of schools, but many small towns now also have a cooking school.

Massage courses are also hugely popular among Westerners who appreciate the multiple benefits of a thorough, pressure-point massage and want to induce a deep relaxation in others. Once again, courses are flexible, ranging from a few days to several weeks, with 10 days being an average. Though you can get a good traditional massage anywhere in the country, few schools outside Bangkok and Chiang Mai have courses for foreigners. To study in style, head for Chiva-Som on Sukhumvit Soi 63, which runs an academy with a huge range of wellness techniques taught in English by trained therapists. Visit www.chivasomacademy.com for info.

Meditation courses present perhaps the ultimate challenge to fast-living Westerners who couldn't get through a day without their cellphone or TV. The challenge also involves no reading, no idle gossip (in some monasteries, no talking at all), and, toughest of all, no thinking. Most temples teach the Theravada Buddhist tradition of meditation and developing insight, known as Vipassana. The best-suited temples for foreigners are Suan Mokkh or Wat Khao Tham, in the south; Wat Rampoeng, in Chiang Mai; and Wat Mahathat, or The House of Dhamma, in Bangkok.

Voluntourism

If you really want to commit yourself to giving as well as getting during your vacation, then consider signing up for volunteer work. What's more, people who experience the country in this way are guaranteed closer contact with Thais than those on the tourist circuit. The most common opportunities in Thailand involve teaching English, but computer skills and any other expertise might be employed to good effect. Below are some organizations that offer the chance to do voluntary work in Thailand; most require a donation to cover expenses such as accommodation and food.

If you know how to dot your Is and cross your Ts, you might have what it takes to be an English teacher. Contact Lemon Grass Volunteering, in Bangkok (tel. 081977-5300; www.lemongrass-volunteering.com) for more information.

There are also organizations trying to protect gibbons from exploitation and extinction, such as the Gibbon Rehabilitation Project, on Phuket.

Those seriously interested in marine conservation can join the volunteer team at Ko Phra Thong near Phuket, where an Italian-led organization called Naucrates has spent over a decade educating local communities on ecological issues and monitoring the decline of local turtles. It also runs a mangrove revitalization scheme.

Fast Facts

ATM Networks  -- Most major banks throughout the country have ATMs. In general, you can get cash with your debit card at any ATM  provided your card is hooked into the MasterCard/Cirrus or Visa/PLUS network.

Business Hours -- Government offices (including branch post offices) are open Monday to Friday 8:30am to 4:30pm, with a lunch break between noon and 1pm. Businesses are generally open 8am to 5pm. Shops often stay open from 8am until 7pm or later, 7 days a week. Department stores are generally open 10am to 8pm. Most TAT visitor centers are open daily from 8:30am to 4pm.

Drinking Laws -- The legal drinking age in Thailand is 20. You can readily buy and drink alcohol, even in supermarkets, but licensing laws apply, and drinks can be served only after 5pm. On some public holidays and election days, no liquor can be sold at all. Most restaurants, bars, and nightclubs sell booze, and you can pick up bottles of imported and local liquor from convenience stores. Nightspots must close at 1am (and the rule is being policed vigorously). Alcohol, hitherto readily sold over the counter anywhere, anytime, is now subject to strict licensing hours.

Drugstores -- Throughout the country, there are many drugstores stocked with brand-name medications and toiletries, plus less expensive local brands. Pharmacists often speak some English, and a number of drugs that require a prescription elsewhere can be dispensed over the counter.

Electricity -- All outlets -- except in some luxury hotels -- are 220 volts AC (50 cycles). Outlets have two flat-pronged or round-pronged holes, so you may need an adapter. If you use a 110-volt hair dryer, electric shaver, or battery charger for a computer, bring a transformer and an adapter.

Embassies & Consulates --  While most countries have consular representation in Bangkok, the United States, Australia, Canada, and the United Kingdom also have consulates in Chiang Mai. Most embassies have 24-hour emergency services. If you are seriously injured or ill, call your embassy for assistance.

In the United States, contact the Royal Thai Embassy, 1024 Wisconsin Ave. NW, Ste. 401, Washington, DC (tel. 202/944-3600;  www.thaiembdc.org); The Permanent Mission of Thailand to the United Nations, 351 E. 52nd St., New York (tel. 212/754-2230); the Royal Thai Consulate-General, 611 N. Larchmont Blvd., 2nd Floor, Los Angeles, CA 90004 (tel. 323/962-9574; www.thai-la.net); or the Royal Thai Consulate-General, 700 N. Rush St., Chicago (tel. 312/664-3129;  www.thaichicago.net); the Royal Thai Consulate-General, 351 E. 52nd St., New York(tel. 212/754-1770; www.thaiconsulnewyork.com).

In Canada, contact the Royal Thai Embassy, 180 Island Park Dr., Ottawa (tel. 613/722-4444; www.magma.ca/~thaiott/mainpage.htm); or the Royal Thai Embassy, 1040 Burrard St., Vancouver (tel. 604/687-1143; www.thaicongenvancouver.org).

In Australia, contact the Royal Thai Embassy, 111 Empire Circuit Yarralumla, Canberra (tel. 02/6206-0100;  http://canberra.thaiembassy.org); or the Royal Thai Consulate-General, Level 8, 131 Macquarie St. Sydney(tel. 02/9241-2542; www.thaiconsulatesydney.org).

In New Zealand, contact the Royal Thai Embassy, 2 Cook St., Karori, Wellington (tel. 644/476-8618; www.thaiembassynz.org.nz).

In the United Kingdom, contact the Royal Thai Embassy, 29-30 Queen's Gate, London SW7 5JB (tel. 020/7589-2944; www.thaiembassyuk.org.uk).

Emergencies -- Throughout the country, the emergency number you should use is tel. 1699 or 1155 for the Tourist Police. Don't expect many English speakers at police posts outside the major tourist areas. Ambulances must be summoned from hospitals rather than through a central service. You can also contact your embassy or consulate.

Internet Access -- You'll find Wi-Fi in many public spaces and all major hotels in Thailand.

Language -- Central (often called Bangkok) Thai is the official language. English is spoken in the major cities at hotels, some restaurants, and a few smart shops, and is the second language of the professional class.

Police -- The Tourist Police (tel. 1699 or 1155), with offices in every city, speak English (and other foreign languages) and are open 24 hours. You should call them in an emergency rather than the regular police because there is no guarantee that police operators will speak English.

Restrooms -- The country's better restaurants and hotels will have Western toilets. Shops and budget hotels will have an Asian squat toilet, a ceramic platform mounted over a hole in the ground. Near the toilet is a water bucket or sink with a small ladle. The water is for flushing the toilet. Toilet paper is not provided, but some have tissue dispensers outside the restroom costing 5B. Dispose of it in the wastebasket provided, as it will clog up rudimentary sewage systems.

Smoking -- Thailand bans smoking in public places, such as restaurants and airports. Some bars that don't serve food can get away with smokers, or have created smoker-friendly outdoor spaces, including upmarket private cigar bars. If in doubt, ask about nonsmoking sections. A few years ago, the former Prime Minister Thaksin prohibited the display of cigarettes anywhere. They are still sold but cannot appear on shelves -- you'll have to ask.

Taxes & Service Charges -- Hotels charge a 7% government value-added tax (VAT) and typically add a 10% service charge; hotel restaurants add 8.25% government tax. Smaller hotels quote the price inclusive of these charges.

Time Zone -- Thailand is 7 hours ahead of GMT (Greenwich Mean Time). During winter months, this means that Bangkok is 7 hours ahead of London, 12 hours ahead of New York, and 15 hours ahead of Los Angeles. Daylight saving time will add 1 hour to these times.

Tipping -- If no service charge is added to your check in a fine-dining establishment, a 10% to 15% tip is appropriate. In local shops, tipping is not common. Airport or hotel porters expect tips; 50B is acceptable. Feel free to reward good service wherever you find it. Tipping taxi drivers is appreciated. Carry small bills, as many cab drivers either don't have change or won't admit to having any in the hope of getting a tip.

Visitor Information & Maps Tourist Authority of Thailand -- (TAT; www.tourismthailand.org) is an extensive site with information on locations throughout Thailand. However, its listings are often incorrect or out-of-date.

Water  -- Don't drink the tap water here, even in the major hotels. Most hotels provide bottled water; use it for brushing your teeth as well as drinking. Most restaurants serve bottled or boiled water and ice made from boiled water, but always ask to be sure. Purified water may not have the minerals you need to replace those lost in the heat and humidity, so check the label.

Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

Disabilities shouldn't stop anyone from traveling, but sadly Thailand does not make it easy on the physically challenged. Visitors to Thailand will find that, short of the better hotels in the larger towns, amenities for travelers with disabilities are nonexistent, even in public places. Negotiating sidewalks in cities is hazardous even for the nimble-footed, and crossing roads is a nightmare, so itineraries need to be well-planned.

On the positive side, the Thais' warm-hearted and genuinely helpful nature means they go to great pains to make sure visitors are well looked after, and they will often find simple solutions to worrying problems.

Money

The Thai unit of currency is the baht (written B, Bt, Bht, or THB) and is divided into 100 satang. Tiny copper coins represent 25 and 50 satang; silver coins are 1B, 2B (rare), and 5B. The larger 10B coin is silver with a copper inset. Bank notes come in denominations of 20B (green), 50B (blue), 100B (red), 500B (purple), and 1,000B (brown).

Travel in Thailand is affordable and therefore attracts all types of travelers. In 2018, the average Thai income stood at around 8,400B per person, per month, so standards of living and corresponding prices reflect this. Compared to home, many excellent hotels and restaurants cost a fraction of the price in Thailand, and, because of this, Thais consider any foreigner to be extremely well-off.

Always bear in mind that throughout Thailand, the baht will be the only acceptable currency, and foreign currency is rarely, if ever, accepted for everyday transactions.

There are no restrictions on the import of foreign currencies, but you cannot export foreign currency in excess of 50,000B per person.

Some travelers like to change a little money before leaving home, though it is not really necessary. You can sometimes order baht at your bank; however, it is much easier to visit an airport exchange booth or ATM on arrival in Thailand. There are exchange kiosks at most international airport arrival halls in Thailand, which are generally open when flights arrive, but don't rely on them being open 24 hours.

ATMs

If you have an ATM or a credit card, these can be used in 24-hour cash machines that dispense money in 100-, 500-, and 1,000-baht bills. Thai ATMs accept most international bank card systems. Cirrus (tel. 800/424-7787; www.mastercard.com) and PLUS (tel. 800/843-7587; www.visa.com) networks span the kingdom. Look at the back of your bank card to see which network you're on, and then call or check online for ATM locations in Thailand. Be sure you know your personal identification number (PIN) and daily withdrawal limit before you depart. You'll also need a 4-digit PIN in Thailand, so if yours is a 6-digit number, get it changed before you go.

Credit Cards

International hotels and larger businesses in Thailand accept major credit cards. Despite protest from credit card companies, many establishments, such as supermarkets and department stores, add a 3% to 5% surcharge for payment by credit card (this is above and beyond any fees levied by your credit card company). Be sure to ask before handing over your card, and keep all receipts. When using your card in Thai department stores, also be aware that each section must ring up its receipt separately -- so don't be alarmed when a clerk walks off with your card to process the transaction.

MasterCard and Visa are the most widely accepted credit cards in Thailand, followed by American Express. Most hotels and restaurants accept all of these, especially in tourist destination areas. Discover and Diners Club are far less commonly accepted.

Never leave your cards with others for safekeeping (such as during a trek). If you don't want to carry them, put them in a hotel safe. There have been numerous reports of charges made while cards were left at guesthouses, or small shops running extra slips against a card.

Entry Requirements & Customs

Passports

All visitors to Thailand must carry a valid passport with proof of onward passage (a return or through ticket). Visa applications are not required, if you are staying less than 30 days and are a national of 1 of 41 designated countries including Australia, Canada, Ireland, New Zealand, the United Kingdom, and the United States (New Zealanders may stay up to 3 months).

Customs

What You Can Bring into Thailand -- It is prohibited by law to bring the following items into Thailand without a license: narcotics, pornography, firearms and ammunition, blood, live animals, and agricultural products. Tourists are allowed to enter the country with 1 liter of alcohol and 200 cigarettes (or 250g of cigars or smoking tobacco) per adult, duty free, and there is no official limit on perfume. Customs no longer deem photographic film, PCs, or cameras as restricted items, as long as they are taken out of the country upon departure.

What You Can Take Home from Thailand -- Pay more attention to what you can actually import to your home country, as Thai export Customs are rather lax. However, one exception is cultural treasures: It is forbidden to take antique or authentic Buddha images or Bodhisattva images or fragments out of the kingdom. Special permission is required for removing antique artifacts from the country. You will be required to submit the object along with two 5*7-inch photographs showing a frontal view of the object, your passport, and a photocopy of your passport notarized by your home embassy. The authorization process takes 8 days. For further details, contact the Department of Fine Arts, Na Phra That Road, next to Thammasat University (tel. 02224-2050), open weekdays 8:30am to 4:30pm.

Please note: This is an issue only if the object in question is an antique, especially one that has been removed from a temple or palace, or a piece that has particular historic value to the kingdom. If you purchase a small Buddha image or reproduction, whether an amulet or a statue, you can ship it home or pack it in your bag. Any antique dealer will be able to notify you about which images require special permission.

Medical Requirements

No inoculations or vaccinations are required unless you are coming from, or passing through, areas infected with yellow fever, but do verify what may be recommended. Yellow fever certificates are required for those coming from 42 African and South American countries.

Tips for Women Travelers

Women travelers face no particular discrimination or dangers in Thailand. Women should, however, be very careful when dealing with monks: Never touch a monk, never hand anything directly to them (it should be set on the floor in front of the monk or given to a man who will hand it to them directly), and don't sit next to monks on public transport or in the monk-only designated areas in waiting rooms. Some parts of temples do not allow women to enter; look for signs indicating this.

Thais are extremely modest, almost prudish, and though Thai bar girls dress in scanty fashions, that's not recommended, if you want respect. Women should avoid tank tops and short-shorts (the equivalent of wearing nightwear outdoors for Westerners, though strangely for Thais there is no taboo about this). Going topless on beaches is illegal in many areas and considered a public obscenity. At all temples and mosques, be sure to wear a long skirt or trousers and have your shoulders covered. Your head should be covered in mosques, but headwear (caps, sun visors) must be removed in Buddhist temples.

When dressing for a night out, be very careful that you do not give the wrong message to Thai men. Wearing clothes that Thais would deem immodest (short skirts, low-cut shirts exposing cleavage, or bra tops) is regarded as a come-on.

Getting Around

Thailand’s domestic transport system is accessible, generally efficient, and inexpensive. A robust network of domestic flights (from Don Mueang and Suvarnabhumi International Airports, as well as other Thai cities) and an onslaught of budget airline carriers make air travel a breeze. But if you have the time to take in the countryside, travel by bus, train, private car, or for the really adventurous, by motorcycle.

In our travels, we have found the English-language website 12Go (www.12go.asia/en) to be an invaluable one-stop resource for booking travel. Their website compares timetables and pricing, allowing you to choose the best option for your schedule and budget. For example, a search from Bangkok to Chiang Mai instantly priced out VIP buses, coach buses, overnight sleeper train cars, flights, and even private cabs. Ferry pricing and schedules are included when applicable. Handy icons indicate amenities, like air-con, food, on-board stewards, and TVs. The peer reviews on the site are also helpful.

To book domestic flights, Skyscanner (www.skyscanner.net) and Momondo (www.momondo.com) typically outperform the competition by including a larger number of Asian budget carriers in their search results.

By Plane

Flights from Bangkok depart from Suvarnabhumi Airport and Don Muang Airport, so make sure which one you’re headed for, as they are a long way apart. Airports outside of Bangkok, Phuket, and Chiang Mai usually tend to be more basic but will have necessities such as money-changing facilities, information kiosks, and waiting ground transportation.

Renting a car is easy in Thailand, but driving it is another matter. Driving in Bangkok is particularly hard; the one-way streets, poor and even incorrect road signage, and constant traffic jams prove frustrating. Outside the city, it is a better option, although Thai drivers are unashamedly reckless -- many never learned to drive, ignore basic rules, and have a total disregard for road safety. Foreign drivers must reorient themselves fast and Americans need to readjust to driving on the left.

The usual multinational chains have convenient offices around the country.In theory, drivers are required to have an international driver’s license, but this is rarely enforced. Gas stations are conveniently located along major roads throughout the country. Esso, Shell, Caltex, and PTT all have competitive rates and are full-service. Say “top up” while raising your palm upwards to request a full tank.

Self-drive rates start around 1,200B per day for a family-sized sedan, much more for luxury vehicles or SUVs. Local tour operators in larger destinations, such as Chiang Mai, Phuket, or Ko Samui, will rent cars for considerably less money than the larger, more well-known agencies. Sometimes the savings are up to 50%. Check insurance coverage -- if you are taken to court for an accident, you may be found guilty for not being properly covered. Don't sign unless it's included.

If you're wary of driving yourself, ask about rates for a car and driver, which can be very reasonable. How reasonable? About 3,200B will pay for a car, driver, gas, tolls and parking for 10 hours; five hours is usually 2,200B. These are the rates for Bangkok, so booking this type of service in areas like Isan and Chiang Rai should be cheaper. And the fees end here. If the driver has to stay overnight, his expenses usually come out of the rates listed above.

In towns like Chiang Mai, Pai, Phuket, or Ko Samui, motorbike rentals are cheap and found on nearly every street corner. There are plenty of rental shops in Bangkok, but I strongly advise against renting a motorbike unless you’re a very skilled driver with lots of patience for traffic and chaos. Typically, rentals cost 200 to 450 baht per day and include helmets, which have been used by other sweaty riders many times before. Scooter pricing is based on engine sizes, which typically range from 110 to 150cc. If your goal is casual cruising around town, a smaller bike will do the job and, for more inexperienced riders, a smaller engine will be a smoother ride and easier to handle. When venturing into more mountainous regions, you’ll want more pep in your step, so opt for the 150cc models, especially if you’ll be carrying a passenger. Be sure to test drive rentals for comfort and confidence. It’s not uncommon for rental shops to request to keep your passport in lieu of a deposit.

By Train

Bangkok's Hua Lamphong Railway Station is a convenient, user-friendly facility, though, as always in busy transport hubs, you should be on the alert for scams. Clear signs point the way to public toilets, coin-operated phones, the food court, and the baggage check area. Ticket windows open at least 15 minutes before the first trains of the day depart.

From this hub, the State Railway of Thailand (www.railway.co.th) provides regular service to destinations as far north as Chiang Mai, northeast to Nong Khai, east to Pattaya, and south to Thailand's southern border, where it connects with Malaysia's Keretapi Tanah Melayu Berhad (KTM), with service to Penang (Butterworth), Kuala Lumpur, and Singapore. Complete schedules and fare information can be obtained on the SRT website.

By Bus

Buses are the cheapest and fastest transportation to the farthest and most remote destinations in the country. However, the frequency with which wrecked buses appear on Thai news programs shows that taking the bus carries an inherent risk. If you go for it, the major choices are public or private and air-conditioned or non-air-conditioned. Longer bus trips usually depart in the evenings to arrive at their destination early in the morning. Whenever you can, opt for the VIP buses, especially for overnight trips. Some have 36 seats; better ones have 24 seats. The extra cost is well worth it for the legroom. Also, stick to government-subsidized buses operated by the Transport Company (tel. 02936-2841) from each city's proper bus terminal. Many private companies sell VIP tickets for major routes, but sometimes put you on a standard bus. Ideally, buses are best for short excursions. Longer-haul buses are an excellent value (usually less than 33B per hour of travel), but can be scary if you get a reckless driver.

Warning: When traveling by long-distance bus, do not accept drinks or snacks from fellow Thai travelers; they can be spiked. And watch your possessions closely: Thievery is common, particularly on overnight buses, when valuables are left in overhead racks.

By Taxi, Tuk-Tuk, Songtaew & Samlor

In 2018, Uber sold its Southeast Asian operations to GrabTaxi (www.grabtaxi.com), an Uber-like smartphone app that partners with local taxis, cars, and even motorbikes. Prices are known to be nominally higher (between 10 and 60 baht) but that price bump is outweighed by convenience, since many taxi drivers speak little English, which eliminates any price negotiation. Surge pricing goes into effect when demand is high (often when it rains) making this a pretty pricy transportation option then. 

By law, taxis must charge by the meter and the flag fare is 35B. However, outside Bangkok they rarely use them, so you’ll need to negotiate upfront. Farang passengers, essentially any non-Thai, are likely to be scammed at least once during a trip to Thailand, so adopt the laidback Thai attitude of mai pen rai, or no worries, and don’t lose your cool. The most common annoyance is refusing to use the meter or claiming that it’s broken. Get out and find a new taxi if that happens. A taxi driver often refuse crosstown trips, especially when it’s coming up to a shift change (3–4pm) or if the traffic is bad.

If you don't speak any Thai, you'll be lucky to find a tuk-tuk ride for less than 50B, even for the shortest hops. Be sure to bargain hard with these guys, and don't let 'em take you for a ride (in other words, on shopping trips or to massage parlors). In most provincial areas and resort islands, small pickup trucks called songtaews cruise the main streets offering communal taxi service at cheap, set fees. As with tuk-tuks, always remember to agree on your fare before engaging a driver.

The samlor (literally "three wheels") is a dying breed of pedal-powered transport -- a bicycle taxi that is often referred to as a pedicab or trishaw; the rider pulls passengers along behind him in a covered seat, and this type of transport is most commonly seen laden with shopping from local markets. Some hotels organize sightseeing tours by samlor, but otherwise they are rarely used by visitors. Motorized three-wheel vehicles, such as tuk-tuks, are also sometimes called samlors.

Note: Few taxi, tuk-tuk, songtaew, or samlor drivers speak even basic English, so have a copy of your hotel's name, street address, and district written in Thai with you at all times.

A small tip is usually expected, though of course it is up to you. Because many taxi or tuk-tuk drivers claim to have no change, don't leave your hotel without some small bills.

Staying Connected

To call Thailand: If you're calling Thailand from the United States:

1. Dial the international access code: 011.

2. Dial the country code: 66.

3. Dial the number. So the whole number you'd dial for Bangkok would be 011-66-2-000-0000.

Important Note: When making calls to Thailand, be sure to omit the "0" that appears before all phone numbers in this guide (thus you will dial only eight digits after the "66" country code). When calling within Thailand, you will need to add the two- or three-digit area code for the place you are calling, unless the number is a special four-digit hot line for an airline or tourist organization.

To make international calls: There are two ways to make international calls from Thailand -- first, by IDD, for which the access number is 001; second, by Voice over Internet Protocol (VoIP), for which access numbers are 007, 008, and 009. The latter are much cheaper. After dialing the international access number, dial the country code (U.S. or Canada 1, U.K. 44, Ireland 353, Australia 61, New Zealand 64). Next, you dial the area code and number. For example, if you wanted to call the British Embassy in Washington, D.C., you would dial 001-1-202-588-7800.

For directory assistance: Dial tel. 1133, or dial any hotel concierge or operator (even if you are not a guest, they can help).

Cellphones

Note that cellphones are referred to as "mobiles" or "handsets" in Thailand, which operates on the GSM system. If you have an unlocked phone, you can install a local, prepaid SIM card (sold at 7-Elevens and cellphone stores in Thailand). Show your phone to the salesperson; not all phones work on all networks. You'll get a local phone number -- and much, much lower calling rates than using international roaming (unless you have a special plan; do check). Unlocking an already locked phone can be complicated, but it can be done; just call your cellular operator and say you'll be going abroad for several months and want to use the phone with a local provider. In Thailand, head to Mah Boon Krong (MBK), near the National Stadium BTS in central Bangkok, for assistance with unlocking cellphones at any cellphone vendor.

For trips of more than a few weeks spent in one country, buying a local SIM card becomes economically attractive, as Thailand has a number of cheap prepaid phone systems operated by One-2-Call, True Move, and DTAC. For around 800B, you will be given a starter pack, which includes a SIM card, an instant Thai mobile phone number, plus some free calls. Call costs depend on the package you choose; some systems offer free off-peak messaging (SMS). With most plans, though, incoming calls are free.

Internet

Almost all hotels now offer Wi-Fi to their guests free of charge. It's also free in Starbucks, as it is in most corners of the planet.

Escorted & Package Tours

Escorted Genereal-Interest Tours

Escorted tours are structured group tours with a group leader. The price usually includes everything from airfare to hotels, meals, tours, admission costs, and local transportation. Here are some of the best operators for Thailand.

• Absolute Asia (www.absoluteasiajourneys.com; tel. 800/736-8187): Founded in 1989, Absolute Asia offers an array of innovative itineraries, specializing in individual or small group tours customized to your interests, with experienced local guides and excellent accommodations. Talk to them about tours that feature art, cuisine, religion, antiques, photography, wildlife study, archaeology, and soft adventure -- they can plan a specialized trip to see just about anything you can dream up for any length of time.
• Asia Transpacific Journeys (www.asiatranspacific.com; tel. 800/642-2742 or 303/443-6789): Coordinating tours to every corner of South and Southeast Asia and the Pacific, Asia Transpacific Journeys deals with small groups and custom programs that include luxury hotel accommodations. They have specific tours for Thailand, such as the Best of Thailand, a 14-day trip that takes in Bangkok, the north, and the southern beaches. Asia Transpacific tours are fun, promote cultural understanding and sustainable tourism, and are highly recommended.
• Diethelm (www.diethelmtravel.com; tel. 02660-7000): The folks at this Swiss-based tour company, with offices throughout the region, are friendly and helpful, and a popular choice for European tour groups. Diethelm has full tour programs and can provide details for travelers in-country, arrange car rental or vans for small groups, and offer discount options to all destinations.
• Intrepid (www.intrepidtravel.com; tel. 1300/364-512, or 800/970-7299 in the U.S.): This popular Australian operator is a reliable choice to get off the beaten path on a tour of Asia. Intrepid caters tours for the culturally discerning, those with humanitarian goals, and adventure travelers on a budget looking for a group-oriented tour of off-the-map locations. They live up to their name, and with some of the best guides in Asia, these folks will take you to the back of beyond safely and in style.
• World Spree (www.worldspree.com; tel. 866/652-5656) is usually the price leader to Asia, and Thailand is no exception. It offers great value trips throughout the year, some just to Thailand, others that mix a visit here with Cambodia or Laos. And unlike many other Asia specialists, World Spree never includes bogus "shopping experiences" (where travelers are steered into stores where the tour company gets a kickback). Expect top quality guides and accommodations for a lower-than-usual price.

When to Go

It's wise to study the weather information below, as an ill-timed trip can mean pouring rain, debilitating humidity, or seas too rough for diving or beach activity. The high season for tourism throughout the kingdom is the North American/European winter period, mid-October through late February. Prices skyrocket and hotels fill up then, so be sure to make advance reservations. Off-season weather, however, is not always intolerable, and some travelers report joyfully trading the crowded beaches and high prices of high season for a bit of off-peak discomfort. Low season is generally composed of the odd rainy afternoon, significant savings, and a lot more elbowroom. Because this coincides with school holidays in the U.S. and Europe, there is a mini high season in July/August when families head for the kingdom.

Thailand has two distinct climate zones: tropical in the south and tropical savanna in the north. The northern, northeastern, and central areas of the country (including Bangkok) experience three distinct seasons. The hot season lasts from March to May, with temperatures averaging in the upper 90s Fahrenheit (mid-30s Celsius), and with April being the hottest month. Normally, this period sees sporadic rain.

In recent years, however, the rainy season has begun in April and has lasted, on and off, until late November, or even December. The average temperature is 84°F (29°C) with 90% humidity. While the rainy season brings heavy downpours, it is rare to see an all-day episode. From June, daily showers will usually come in the late afternoon or evening for 3 to 4 hours, often bringing floods and forcing traffic to a standstill. Trekking in the north is not recommended during this time. In Bangkok, expect smog from April to August.

The cool season, from November to February, has temperatures from the high 70s°F to low 80s°F (26°C-29°C), with infrequent showers. Daily temperatures can drop as low as 60°F (16°C) in Chiang Mai and 41°F (5°C) in the hills; 1 or 2 nights may even see frost.

The Southern Thai Peninsula has intermittent showers year-round and daily downpours during the rainy season (temperatures average in the low 80s Fahrenheit/30s Celsius). If you're traveling to Phuket or Ko Samui, it would be helpful to note that the two islands alternate peak seasons. Optimal weather on Phuket occurs between November and April, when the island welcomes the highest numbers of travelers. Conversely, Ko Samui's great weather lasts from about February to October. Refer to each destination's section for more information about peak seasons and changing weather patterns.

Holidays

Many holidays are based on the Thai lunar calendar, falling on the full moon of each month; check with the Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT; www.tat.or.th) for the current year's schedule.

On National and Buddhist holidays and on polling days, government offices, banks, small shops, and offices -- as well as some restaurants and bars -- usually close. By law, bars cannot serve alcohol on HM Queen Sirikit's birthday in August, nor on HM King Bhumibol's birthday in December. Note: In most cases there will be little advance warning given to shop, restaurant, or bar customers. Public transport still runs on holidays, though.

January to March -- Thailand celebrates New Year's Day the same as the rest of the world. In late February or early March (depending on the lunar cycle) is Makha Bucha Day, when temples celebrate Buddha preaching to his disciples.

April -- Chakri Memorial Day (Apr 6) commemorates the founding of the current Chakri dynasty.

Songkran is the New Year according to the Thai calendar, and it's an event that begins officially on April 13 and lasts 3 days, though water splashing begins about a week before in the countryside. After honoring local monks and family elders, folks hit the streets for massive water fights. Be warned -- foreigners are the Thais' favorite target and such areas as Khao San Road become messy war zones where everyone gets soaked (police included) and then covered in flour or colored powder. Truck-mounted power hoses can cause damage, and cellphones, cameras, and valuables should be kept in Ziploc bags. Wear your oldest clothes -- anyone expecting to stay dry will be sorely disappointed!

May -- National Labor Day falls on the 1st, while Coronation Day, celebrating the coronation of HM King Bhumibol in 1946, is on the 5th. Visakha Bucha Day, marking the birth, enlightenment, and death of the Buddha, falls around mid- to late May, depending on the lunar calendar.

July -- Thais celebrate the Buddhist Lent immediately following Asarnha Bucha Day in mid-July (depending on the lunar calendar), signaling the beginning of the rains' retreat and the 3-month period of meditation for all Buddhist monks -- this was the day that the Buddha delivered his first sermon to his first five disciples.

August -- August 12 honors the birthday of HM Queen Sirikit and is also Mother's Day.

October -- On October 23, Chulalongkorn Day, the country's favorite king, Rama V, is remembered.

November -- Loy Krathong, in early November, is Thailand's most romantic festival, although it's not usually a public holiday. After dark, handmade banana-leaf vessels are launched down rivers, and lanterns are hoisted into the sky in order to symbolize the release of sins. The most spectacular celebrations are in Sukhothai and Chiang Mai.

December -- December 5 marks former King Bhumibol's birthday and is also Father's Day. December 10 is Constitution Day and recognizes Thailand's first constitution in 1932.

Tips on Dining

One of the greatest joys of visiting Thailand is the plethora of dining options in any area. From high-class hotel restaurants with elegant buffet luncheons to simple, friendly diners, you'll find it all.

Storefront restaurants and street vendors, apart from those in a specified night market area, are open early morning to late at night. To ease congested streets, food vendors are now banned in Bangkok on Mondays. Restaurants catering to tourists also open from morning until late. You're not expected to tip at most Thai restaurants, but rounding up the bill or leaving 20B on top of most checks is much appreciated. (A 15%-20% tip will shock and awe in smaller restaurants, but will be readily expected at fine-dining outlets.)

Thais are very practical about table manners. If something is best eaten with the hands, then feel free. If there are seeds or bones, you can spit them out onto the table or into a tissue. Single-serve noodle soups are usually eaten with chopsticks and a Chinese spoon. Rice dishes are eaten with a spoon and fork; the spoon is commonly held in the right hand, and the fork in the left is used only to load the spoon for delivery. Follow local customs if you wish, but do whatever you're comfortable with.

Overcoming a Fear of Food Stalls

Considering the fact that, in Western countries, most people judge the potential quality of a restaurant's food by the smartness of its decor, it's hardly surprising that many visitors to Thailand can never bring themselves to order food from a street food stall. Typically, they suspect that hygiene will be poor, and with such cheap prices, surely the cooks must use inferior ingredients? The fact that most such stalls have no English menu also dissuades potential customers.

Breaking through this fear of food stalls is a major step toward appreciating the fantastic variety of Thai cuisine. For a start, try to forget the hygiene concerns, as all Thais are meticulous about cleanliness in food preparation. (To be certain, check all ingredients for freshness, and make sure that anything you eat is prepared fresh and hasn't been languishing on liquefied ice for ages.) Also, because most stalls sell a single dish, they need to select the best ingredients to gain a competitive edge. As for the lack of a menu, you can overcome this by simply pointing at a dish you would like to sample. So next time you feel peckish as you walk past a food stall giving off an appealing aroma, do as the Thais do -- sit down and eat!

Tips for Families

A visit to Thailand will certainly broaden the horizons of young visitors, and many families report great experiences in the kingdom, partly because most Thais dote on kids. Larger resorts and hotels have kid-friendly programs, kids' clubs, connecting rooms, sports equipment rentals, and kid-oriented group activities. Many of the larger hotels also offer special deals for families or young children.

Some hotels allow kids under 12 to share their parents' room for free, especially if it has two double beds, but an extra bed can always be found at a small extra cost. There's not much point in looking for accommodation that includes kitchen facilities, as restaurants are generally inexpensive, but while the spiciness of Thai food appeals to most adults, you'll have to watch out for junior digging into a Thai salad laced with fiery chilies.

As in other countries, babysitting services are available in top hotels, but few consider this a chore in Thailand, and generally you can expect hotel and restaurant staff to be falling over each other to amuse the kids while you are eating or enjoying a snooze by the pool.

As to where to go for a family holiday, kids are as enthralled by tropical beaches and mountain landscapes as adults. Wildlife watching somewhere like Khao Yai National Park is a good idea, but you may want to give the ancient cities of Ayutthaya and Sukhothai a miss, as kids are likely to find the ruins a big bore.

Getting There

By Plane

There is no longer a direct flight from the U.S. to Thailand. Flights from major U.S. cities have layovers across the Asian continent, including Hong Kong, Tokyo, Dubai, Abu Dhabi, Doha, and Seoul. Depending on your origin city, expect travel from the U.S. to Thailand to take 22 to 30 hours. But with those layovers come some opportunities, since Thailand has more than one international airport. While most international flights arrive in Bangkok's Suvarnabhumi International Airport (airport code BKK; tel. 02132-1888), you can also fly directly to Phuket (airport code HKT; tel. 077632-7230-7), Ko Samui (airport code USM; tel. 07742-22512-9), and Chiang Mai (airport code CNX; tel. 05327-0222-33) from certain regional destinations such as Singapore or Hong Kong. That being said, international long-haul flights into Bangkok cost an average of $200 less than flights into these other airports.

Timing is also important. Tuesday flights are statistically cheapest for those flying into and out of the country, and prices are lowest in April, May and September.

By Bus or Car

Neighboring countries of Laos, Cambodia, Myanmar, and Malaysia have sanctioned border crossing points to exit or enter Thailand. Most busses, private cars, or shared taxis cannot cross the border point, and the onward leg of the journey is another bus, private car, or shared taxi on the other side of the border. Visa on arrival services are available at these points, but remember to bring the necessary paperwork, visa photos, and crisp U.S. dollars in the correct amount. You can change Thai baht at airports across the country or, if you’re in Bangkok, Super Rich (www.superrichthailand.com) offers the best rates. Look out for locals offering to cordinate health checks or expedite visa services—these are always a scam. At press time, these are the current visa fees: Laos charges $35 (for U.S., Europe, U.K. citizens), $42 for Canadians, and Australians. Most others pay $30. Cambodia charges $30 for most nationalities and requires a passport photo (or else pay a $2 fine and skip the photo). Myanmar charges $50 for an online e-visa ($56 for 24-hour turnaround). Visitors from most countries can enter Malaysia without a visa.

By Train

Thailand is accessible via train from Singapore and peninsular Malaysia. Malaysia's Keretapi Tanah Melayu Berhad (KTM) begins in Singapore (tel. 652/6222-5165), stopping in Kuala Lumpur (tel. 603/2267-1200) and Butterworth (Penang; tel. 604/323-7962), before heading for Thailand, where it joins service with the State Railway of Thailand. Bangkok's Hua Lamphong Station is centrally located on Krung Kasem Road (tel. 02220-4334 or 1690). Taxis, tuk-tuks, and public buses wait outside the station and access to the MRT (subway) is a few steps away.

The Eastern & Oriental Express (www.orient-express.com) operates a 2-night/3-day journey between Singapore and Bangkok that makes getting there almost better than being there. The romance of 1930s colonial travel is joined with modern luxury in six Pullman cars, seven State cars, a Presidential car, plus two restaurant cars, a bar car, a saloon car, and an observation car. Along the way, stops are made in Penang (Georgetown) and Kanchanaburi (River Kwai) for light sightseeing. Current fares per person one-way are $2,900 for a Pullman superior double.

By Ship

Star Clipper Cruises run leisurely cruises that stop at several picturesque Thai islands on the week-long journey from Singapore to Phuket. For more information visit www.starclippers.com.

Tips on Accommodations

The most visited parts of the country (meaning Bangkok, Phuket, Chiang Mai, Pattaya, and Ko Samui) offer the widest choice of accommodation. These include rental apartments and villast through such multinational organizations as HomeAway.com, AirBnb.com, and FlipKey.com. As in other parts of the world, these offerings can be real money savers, especially for groups. But do check for fees (including cleaning fees) before booking, as those extras can add up.

Five-star hotels and resorts spare no detail for the business or leisure traveler, providing designer toiletries, plush robes, in-room DVD or CD players, Jacuzzis, and Wi-Fi, plus many other creature comforts. At the other end of the scale, Thailand is famous for its good-value guesthouses; while they may lack fancy facilities, they do offer a friendly welcome and a comfy bed at rock-bottom prices. All expensive and some moderately priced hotels add a 10% service charge, plus 7% value-added tax (VAT), which can obviously make quite a difference, so check whether your chosen hotel adds them on. Air-conditioning is standard in most top-end and midrange hotels, while fans are the norm in most guesthouses. In some cases, such as in the north from November to February, A/C is not a necessity.

Accommodation categories in this guide are calculated according to rack rates in high season, though keep in mind that prices may fall as much as 50% between March and October, especially on the beach. Categories also refer to the majority of rooms, so if a hotel has a few rooms for 5,000B but most are over 10,000B, it will fall into the "expensive" category.

Tips for Senior Travelers

Senior citizens are highly revered in Thai society and are treated with deference and respect, which comes as a pleasant surprise to many first-time Western visitors. Unfortunately, this deference does not stretch to offering the kind of discounts on transport and admission fees that you might be used to back home. There are exceptions, however, and it's always worth asking politely if there are preferable rates for senior citizens, as Thais take pride in accommodating their guests' wishes.

Calendar of Events

Check with the Tourist Authority of Thailand (tel. 1672; www.tat.or.th) for more information on the events listed below as well as for other holidays celebrated throughout the country.

January/February -- Chinese New Year, nationwide. Head for any Chinatown to see the vivid parades, firecrackers, and Lion Dances associated with this holiday. Things get most raucous in Bangkok's Yawarat district (Chinatown). It falls anytime from mid-January to mid-February, during which many businesses close for the week.

February -- Flower Festival, Chiang Mai. When all of the north is in bloom, Chiang Mai springs to life with parades, floats decorated with flowers, and beauty contests. First weekend in the month.

March -- King's Cup Annual Elephant Polo Tournament, used to be held in Hua Hin but now takes place near Chiang Rai, in the Golden Triangle. Mahouts and madcap international polo players meet to battle it out in a hilarious but worthy weeklong tournament that raises money for Thailand's main elephant charities. Entrance is free, and the tournament happens during the last week of the month.

April -- Pattaya Festival, Pattaya. Parades and fireworks accompany a food festival and lots of partying, during the first week of the month.

July -- Koh Samui Regatta, Koh Samui. Late July brings yachtsmen and partygoers from all over to enjoy a week of fiercely competitive ocean races.

October -- Vegetarian Festival, Phuket. In this bizarre religious ritual, devotees spear, pierce, and percolate themselves while in a trance. It's not for the fainthearted! It takes place the second week of the month, and lasts for 9 days.

Naga Fireballs, Nong Khai, Isan. During this event, crowds gather along the river hoping to witness red glowing balls rising from the waters; they're thought to be methane bubbles released from the riverbed. The second or third week of the month.

November -- Elephant Roundup, Surin. Elephant parades and cultural performances take place during the third weekend of November.

December -- King's Cup Regatta, Phuket. Global competitors race yachts, in this exciting international event, which takes place the second week of December.

Safety

Violent crime is rare in Thailand. Foreign visitors are not usually targeted unless they have seriously upset a local. Tourists are more likely to encounter con artists, but a few basic precautions can help avoid problems.

Because pickpockets and scam artists work the tourist areas and pounce on friendly or naive travelers, keep an eye on valuables in crowded places, and be wary of anyone who approaches you in the street to solicit your friendship. However genuine the entreaty sounds, you will end up wasting precious time on "shopping tours," where your "guide" will collect a commission and keep you from getting where you'd like to go (or worse).

In general, even in big cities, single men and women are fairly safe as long as they stick to walking in brightly lit areas where there is plenty of activity. If, for whatever reason, you sense a confrontation developing, just walk away. The tourist police hotline, tel. 1155, should bring a quick response but does not guarantee that the police will support the foreigner. Know you cannot win in any altercation: Every year a handful of gung-ho tourists injure themselves trying.

Thai police are some of the lowest-paid civil servants in the country, so it's not surprising that they have a reputation for harassment, intimidation, and bribery. Involving yourself in any way whatsoever (especially amorously) with a Thai cop is dangerous. There are many cases of lovelorn officers gunning down Thai and foreign girls (and/or their new boyfriends) who had previously flirted with their affections.

Thailand can offer illicit temptations that may seem harmless to naive travelers. Yet the Thai government has zero tolerance of drug trafficking and use. Many people who think they are being offered a casual puff on a joint don't realize they are being set up; every year a few will end up never leaving the kingdom, serving a life sentence in a Thai jail cell. Prostitution is also illegal.

Driving Tips

Driving is another all-too-obvious danger here. Many drivers in the country have bought their licenses, and hence little attention is given to speed limits or other rules of the road. Driving a rental car here is not for the fainthearted; extreme caution should be taken and defensive driving skills are key. Every year Thai hospitals are full of banged, bruised, and mummy-wrapped travelers recovering from road accidents. For years, Thailand's annual road death statistics have defied belief, especially on the hilly islands of Phuket, Ko Samui, and Ko Chang, where a sense of exhilaration tempts drivers to their fates. Pedestrians in cities should be particularly wary of foot crossings operated by traffic lights, as many drivers ignore them completely.

If you do get in an accident, keep in mind that Thais don't normally have insurance. If they don't flee the scene, they might try to negotiate a settlement. Local officials may actually hinder the situation, especially if the culpable faction can persuade them you are to blame. If you find yourself in this situation, take photographs of the scene and ask to get a copy of the IDs of those involved.

Prostitution in Thailand is illegal, and yet every day you will see foreigners picking up Thai hookers of both sexes. Selling sex is not so much tolerated as politely ignored. However, some travelers regard it as a tourist draw, especially when underage boys or girls are involved. These days, the international police are hard on their heels; high-profile arrests are now not just common, but actively sought.

It is hard to get exact numbers for Commercial Sex Workers (CSWs) in Thailand; the number fluctuates from 80,000 to 800,000, depending on the source. Due to the huge numbers involved and the dangers therein, Thailand has made significant steps to counter the spread of HIV/AIDS. Through education and the introduction of condoms, it has made efforts to stem the tide of new cases (though statistics are unreliable). A leading force in this effort is the Population & Community Development Association (PCDA), led by the courageous and innovative public health crusader Senator Mechai Viravaidya.

The PCDA has enlarged the scope of its rural development programs from family planning and networks distributing condoms to running seminars for CSWs. In poor, uneducated, rural families, where sons provide farm labor, the sex trade has become an income-earning occupation for parents, who sell their daughters to urban criminal gangs, often saying they will "go to a good job." They don't. They end up as sex slaves. Under international statutes, many are still minors; having sexual relations with them is equivalent to rape. It is a sorely misplaced myth to believe that CSWs live a good life of fun and freedom. Addiction to drugs and alcohol or physical abuse is commonplace. Rape is even more frequent. Girls contract STDs or fall pregnant, and scores of unwanted children -- many with HIV -- are dumped on orphanages.

Poor regulations and scheming between gangs and police do nothing to stop this. Though legislation coyly prohibits full nudity in most go-go bars, it just means the illegal backroom deals, kidnappings, rape, and the enslavement of children carry on behind closed doors, funded by the profits paid by the brothels' ignorant clientele.

If you choose to support prostitution, you are not only breaking the law, but also supporting the trafficking and abuse of women and men, including minors. You are putting your own life at risk from STDs and perpetuating a trade that ruins lives. It's not all one-sided play either: Numerous cases are known where tourists have been drugged in their hotel rooms by their sleeping partner. If they are lucky, they awake 2 days later to find all their valuables gone. There are a shocking number of stories about Western travelers found dead after a liaison with a CSW, but rarely will the newspapers report the full details.

Exercise caution in your dealings with any stranger. If, in spite of all these warnings, you decide to use the services of Thailand's CSWs, take proper precautions; carry condoms at all times, and check the person's ID. If you are in any doubt, walk away -- it could save your life.

Dealing With Discrimination

There is still a certain amount of institutionalized racism in old Siam, and much pride is taken from the fact that no foreign power colonized the kingdom. Thai people are, superficially at least, tolerant, but not always accepting of Western ways. Foreign men with young Thai girlfriends can be viewed with deep distrust, and even distaste.

Thais follow a codified hierarchy, with wealth and status going hand in hand. Therefore, the richer Thai-Chinese, who own and operate big businesses, top the scale, and people from Isan, the impoverished northeast of the kingdom, come way down in the ratings. Associating yourself with any Thai will, very often, put you at their level.

Caucasians are known as farang (a word that originally meant French, referring to the nation's earliest Western visitors). Farang is not necessarily a racist term, but, yes, foreign tourists are ritually overcharged and some take this personally as a form of discrimination. Look at this from a Thai, not Western, perspective. Thais believe if you have more, you are expected to give more; the rule applies to Thais as well, regardless of your budget. As a farang you are automatically seen as wealthy in Thailand. Skills in bargaining will come in time, if you practice. Just remember that Thais really appreciate generosity, rather than someone who makes a big deal about haggling over a baht or two.

Staying Healthy

Thailand, like all third-world countries, poses a small risk to travelers. The same precautions for visiting tropical climes apply to the more remote areas of the Thai kingdom, where some types of mosquito can transmit malaria or dengue fever. Ask healthcare professionals to supply you with the latest information about health risks specific to the region as well as global pandemics such as the H1N1 virus (swine flu).

It is recommended that travelers have current immunizations for hepatitis A, polio, and tetanus. Young people are advised to get a rubella vaccine to protect against the TB virus; check that you are protected. Wounds can be aggravated by heat and humidity, so watch out for infections; wash cuts promptly with iodine or saline solution, and keep them dry.

General Availability of Healthcare

Dispensaries and hospital facilities in Thailand, especially in urban centers, are generally excellent. In Phuket, hospitals are familiar with holidaymakers, especially victims of the island's many car and motorbike crashes. Smaller towns will usually have a basic clinic, but Bangkok is always the best bet.

Common Ailments

Stomach Trouble -- Often the change in climate and diet will provoke diarrhea in travelers to Thailand. You can best avoid upset stomachs by sticking to bottled water at all times, and drinking lots of it. Also be sure canned or bottled drinks are unopened, and wash your hands regularly, especially before eating.

It's useful to keep good antidiarrhea medicine, such as Imodium, handy in your travel bag, plus a fruit-flavored electrolyte powder, such as Dechamp, to mix with water to prevent dehydration. Note: A roll of toilet paper or packet of tissues is a good idea too; Thai toilets do not always provide this. Pharmacies here, such as Boots or Watson's, have a wide range of Western brand drugs, including Imodium. 7-Eleven stores sell single toilet-paper rolls and ready-to-go electrolyte drinks, such as Gatorade, as well as the familiar items and brands such as Bayer, Tylenol, and Eno antacids.

While restaurant hygiene throughout the country is generally excellent, be wary of street food stalls in areas of heavy traffic where pollution might affect the cleanliness of ingredients. If you develop a condition that includes cramps and lasts more than 24 hours, find a doctor for possible antibiotic treatment.

Tropical Illnesses -- Hepatitis A can be avoided using the same precautions as for diarrhea. Most Asians are immune through exposure, but people from the West are very susceptible. Consider starting a course of vaccines at least 3 months before your trip.

Major tourist areas, such as Bangkok, Phuket, Ko Samui, and Chiang Mai, are generally malaria free. However, malaria is still a problem in rural parts, particularly territories in the mountains to the north and near the borders with Cambodia, Laos, and Myanmar. When you're traveling to remote areas, start taking a malarial prophylaxis well in advance (most dosages start 4 weeks before travel), such as Malarone (a combo of Atovaquone and Proguanil) or Doxycycline -- but see a travel med specialist to confer, and have him or her advise you on the potentially harmful side effects. Note that Mefloquine (sold under the name Larium) is no longer recommended for Thailand.

The best way to prevent malarial transmission or catching any other diseases listed here is to cover up with light-colored clothing, and wear long pants and sleeves after dark. Sleep with Permethrin-treated mosquito netting well tucked in, and use repellents. And make sure your repellent contains a high percentage of DEET. If you do get bitten, apply a dab of calamine lotion to ease the itching, and avoid scratching, which only makes it worse. If you develop a fever within 2 weeks of entering a high-risk area, be sure to consult a physician.

Dengue fever is now a major problem throughout Southeast Asia. Recent years have seen epidemics in the region. Similar to malaria, the virus is spread by a mosquito, but this one can bite during the day as well as at night. Symptoms are similar to those of the flu, with high fever, severe aches, fatigue, and possible skin rashes or headaches, lasting about a week. Drink plenty of water and seek medical attention immediately if you experience these symptoms.

Japanese encephalitis is a deadly viral infection that attacks the brain and is spread by a mosquito bite. Outbreaks have been known to occur in the region, so stay abreast of the most up-to-date CDC information. As for malaria and dengue, the best protection is to avoid being bitten, but seek medical attention if you develop symptoms such as fever, severe aches, and skin rashes.

Bugs & Other Wildlife Concerns -- On jungle hikes in particular, wear long sleeves and trousers instead of shorts, which will protect against not just mosquito bites, but the ubiquitous ticks, leeches, nasty biting giant centipedes, and (rarely seen) snakes. In order to survive the heat and humidity, wear loose cotton pants, socks, and sturdy boots -- natural fibers are perfect for this terrain. Always try to minimize the chance of getting cuts and scrapes (they can get infected 10 times faster than back home). When venturing into thick jungle terrain, do so with a qualified guide and follow his or her example. Don't pick or touch plants unless the guide says it's safe.

Rabies is a concern in Thailand, as are bites from any stray animals -- infected or not. Temples house many mangy dogs because Buddhists believe their duty is to feed them. Such dogs are often members of a pack and can get aggressive toward strangers of any kind. Occasionally, a rabid animal makes its way into the mix. Stay clear of all stray animals; and seek medical attention immediately, if you've been bitten. If you find yourself cornered, look for a stick to keep these mutts at bay. Bangkok has a rabies and snakebite help desk at tel. 02256-4214.

Avoid freshwater streams or lagoons, as they can be contaminated by chemicals or parasites. Sadly, lack of environmental regulations means sewage outlet pipes often pour into the sea or freshwater streams. Coral reefs pose minor risks from such things as poisonous sea snakes, jellyfish, and sea urchins. You can alleviate Jellyfish burns simply by applying vinegar. In the case of any cuts or stings, try to clean with bottled water and apply an antimicrobial ointment or antihistamine, if you have an allergic response. If you catch an ear infection, ear drops are sold in pharmacies, or mild boric acid or vinegar solutions can help.

Respiratory Illness -- The air in Bangkok at certain times of the year can be smog-laden and is especially bad on sidewalks, next to busy roads, or under the BTS. Chiang Mai can also be very hazy in March. Anyone with respiratory issues such as asthma should carry both regular and emergency inhalers, though brands such as Seretide, Bricanyl, and Ventolin are available without prescription. SARS and H5N1 Flu (bird flu) have caused problems here in the past; at present H1N1 influenza, or swine flu, is a growing problem. Check out the latest situation at www.cdc.gov.

Coping with the Heat -- The symptoms for sunstroke or heat exhaustion are unbearable headaches, nausea, vomiting, dizziness, and extreme fatigue. Avoid these ailments by drinking mineral (not purified) water, electrolyte drinks, or soda water regularly, but in small amounts, to replace minerals and increase hydration. An aspirin or Tylenol can help lower body temperatures. Expose yourself gradually to the heat; wearing a high-SPF sunscreen and a hat will prevent sunburn but not heatstroke. Low alcohol consumption, light meals, and eating minimally spiced food will help you to acclimatize much faster.

Use talcum powder after showering to avoid incapacitating heat rash, and only use clean, dry towels to avoid pervasive fungal growths such as tinea or candida. Fast-acting antifungal powders, creams, or suppositories, such as Canesten (for tinea) and Diflucan (for yeast infections), are available in pharmacies without a prescription.

What To Do If You Get Sick In Thailand

Medical services in Thailand are good in cities, and high street dispensaries -- though unregulated -- sell most drugs, even those normally available only by prescription overseas. The pharmacist may have an almanac on the counter in English, where you can check the different brand names of generic pharmaceutical products in your country, but always seek professional advice.

In most cases, your existing health plan should provide the coverage you need. But double-check; you may want to buy travel medical insurance instead. Bring your insurance ID card (for hospital visits only) with you when you travel.

If you don't feel well, consider asking any hotel concierge to recommend a local doctor or clinic. Typically, doctors see patients on a first-come, first-served basis, unless there is an emergency. You may have to fill in a form telling of allergies or existing conditions before you see a physician. In only very grave cases will you be sent to the emergency room.

You'll need to get a taxi to the hospital (rohng pha yaa baan, in Thai), as Thailand does not normally offer ambulance services. In an emergency, some embassies or consulates can offer basic advice.

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

Thailand is famous for its seemingly gay-friendly attitudes, but homophobia certainly does exist. Lesbians are known as tom dee; they have their own hangouts and are usually less vocal  than their male counterparts, or the theatrically inclined lady-boys (katoeys).

There are occasional Gay Pride-style events, as well as regular cabaret shows and beauty competitions for lady-boys, throughout the country. The same kind of nightlife that caters to heterosexual males is offered in Bangkok, Pattaya, and Phuket's Patong Beach. Venues range from gay bars and dance clubs, men-only saunas (bathhouses), and "pay at the door" parties.