The Hague Attractions

One of the pleasures of spending a day or more in The Hague is ambling through its genteel streets. Stroll past the mansions that line Lange Voorhout, overlooking a broad avenue of poplar and elm trees, and you’ll be struck by how these spacious, restrained mansions differ from Amsterdam’s gabled, ornamented canal houses. Take time out in more than 30 sq. km (12 sq. miles) of parks, gardens, and other green spaces within the city limits or head out to The Hague’s sophisticated seacoast resort, Scheveningen, on Tram no 1.

The Royal Palaces

The working palace for King William-Alexander and his staff, the splendid neoclassical Paleis Noordeinde, Noordeinde (tram: 1 or 10), west of Lange Voorhout, dates from 1553. It was elegantly furnished when William of Orange's widow was in residence, but it became almost derelict by the beginning of the 19th century. In 1815, restoration brought it back to a state suitable for the residence of King Willem I. It is from here that the King, on the third Tuesday of September each year, departs in a golden coach drawn by eight horses, escorted by military corps, bands, local authorities, and a blaze of street pageantry, to proceed to the Binnenhof, where she officially opens Parliament with an address to both houses of the States General in the Ridderzaal.

The King's official royal residence is Paleis Huis ten Bosch (House in the Woods Palace), in the Haagse Bos (Hague Woods; bus no. 4 or 43). For many years, it had been the royal family's summer residence, and originally a small, rather plain structure consisting of several rooms opening from a domed central hall. Prince Willem IV added the two large side wings in the 1700s. Note: The palace isn't open to visitors, but you can view it from the park.

Rising Roses -- In the Rosarium in Westbroekpark (tram: 9), more than 20,000 roses from 300 different varieties bloom each year between July and September. It's open daily from 9am to 1 hour before sunset, and admission is free.

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The Hague Shopping

Interesting shopping areas include Oude Molstraat and Denneweg in the center city, where there's a concentration of authentic Dutch stores. Connected to Centraal station, the modern New Babylon shopping mall has two floors with more than 60 stores, restaurants, and a luxury hotel.

A network of pedestrian streets offers a big selection of stores on Spuistraat, Vlamingstraat, Venestraat, and Hoogstraat. The covered Passage, Holland's oldest "mall," is an elegant 19th-century arcade running from Spuistraat to Gravenstraat, a block from the Binnenhof. An upmarket department store nearby is worth checking out: De Bijenkorf, Wagenstraat 32 (tel. 0900/0919; www.bijenkorf.nl), in a stunning example of functional early-20th-century architecture, stands on Grote Marktstraat.

Noordeinde and Oude Molenstraat are home to fashion boutiques, antiquarian booksellers, and expensive delicatessens. Leading off from Lange Voorhout, Denneweg and Frederikstraat are lined with high-priced antiques, interior-design stores, and specialist boutiques.

Among the top shopping attractions are a number of fine antiques stores and a weekly antiques and book market under the canopy of trees on Lange Voorhout. The market runs May to September on Thursday from 11am to 7pm and Sunday from 11am to 5pm. Year-round on Wednesday, there's an organic farm market on the square around the Grote Kerk from 11am to 6pm.

The Hague Nightlife

Spuiplein, several blocks west of Centraal station, is the city's modern cultural square. Here you'll find the Zuider Strand Theater, Spuiplein 150 (tel. 070/880-0333;  www.zuiderstrandtheater.nl; www.ldt.nl), where the Hague's Residentie Orchestra and the renowned Netherlands Dance Theater perform. If you're more into jazz, rock, hip hop, and experimental music, check out Paard van Troje, Prinsengracht 12 (tel. 070/360-1838; www.paard.nl).

The Hague's natural formality somewhat subdues its nightlife, but there is a thriving bar and cafe culture. Plein, a large square in front of the Tweede Kamer (lower house of Parliament), is a favorite for recess with politicians and civil servants. The Grote Markt square is lined with busy bars and restaurants, ranging from traditional brown cafes to trendy designer spots.