Restaurants in The Phlegrean Fields

Great Gelato Breaks in Puzzuoli -- For the best gelato in the area, head to Via Napoli in Pozzuoli. Among the many bars and gelaterie lining the street, our favorites are Anema e Cono, Corso Umberto I 59 (tel. 081-5263254), and Sneezy, Corso Umberto I 165 (tel. 081-5264777).

In Cuma -- Consider the restaurants in the hotels and the local farms that operate as agriturismi: One we like for the quality of the food and the hospitality is Il Casolare di Tobia, Contrada Coste Fondi di Baia, Via Pietro Fabris 12-14, 80070 Bacoli (tel. 081-5235193; www.datobia.it; reservations recommended), which is located in a valley that is actually an extinct crater and serves traditional dishes using organic produce from the garden. Il Cetrangolo, Via Faro 64, Capo Miseno (tel. 081-5232688; www.ilcetrangolo.it) offers excellent food at moderate prices and great views to boot.