Hotels in The Whale Coast

Hermanus itself is not a particularly attractive town -- walking along the streetscape away from the sea, it resembles any other sprawling suburb -- but its position as the whale-watching capital has meant an unprecedented increase in new places to stay, the best of which boast grand sea views and are described below. If you'd prefer a more rural option, base yourself near the charming village of Stanford, a 15-minute drive inland, at a little gem called Blue Gum Country Estate (tel. 028/341-0116; www.bluegum.co.za). A 52-hectare (130-acre) farm, this retreat has only 12 rooms, each with private verandas and idyllic views of the mountains and gardens; its comfortable country styling is very Martha Stewart. Rates are R900 to R2,300 ($125-$319/£64-£164) including breakfast, a sumptuous high tea, and dinner.

If the thought of self-catering at De Hoop sounds like too much work, Buchu Bushcamp borders De Hoop, allowing for day trips into the reserve, with five simple two-bedroom thatched and timber chalets (R930/$129/£66 per chalet) and restaurant. Owner Colin offers guided walks in the reserve. Contact the camp at tel. 028/542-1602 or visit www.buchu-bushcamp.com.