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Thessaloniki Attractions
Markets
Thessaloniki's markets are a bit of Levantine exotica that knock the socks off anything in Athens. And "anything" is what you can find here, whether it's knockoff designer bags, copper pots, piles of black-and-white postcards, and sheep's bells (or sheep's heads, for that matter). It's a great place to stroll, get lost, and have a snack or a meal.
Art Galleries
Thessaloniki's best galleries often have exhibitions worth taking in, although most keep irregular hours. Find out about them from posters in town, from the Greek National Tourism Organization office at 136 Tsimiski St., and from the listings published on Tuesday in Kathimerini, the English-language supplement to the International Herald Tribune. The weekly publication City is in Greek, but has enough information in English to be useful for non-Greek readers. As you explore the city, feel free to step inside any of the galleries; questions about exhibits are usually welcome.
One not-to-miss place is the Teloglion Foundation of Art, 159A Ayiou Demetriou, on the Aristotle University campus (tel. 2310/247-1111; www.tf.auth.gr/teloglion). The gallery displays the collections of a number of prominent Greek art collectors and also holds important exhibits. If that's not enough reason to visit, consider this: Chef Ektoras Botrini's Mediterranean cuisine at Art02-Ristorante Botrini, the in-house restaurant, won Athinorama magazine's "value for money" award in 2009
Check out Apothiki, on Nikis by the waterfront (tel. 2310/240-877); Foka, 17 Foka (tel. 2310/240-362); Kalfayan, 43 Proxenou Koromilia (tel. 2310/231-187); and Metamorfosis, 128 Tsimiski (tel. 2310/285-071). Terracotta, 13 Chrysostomos (aka Chrys.) Smirnis and 76 Mitropoleos (tel. 2310/235-689), features works by some of Greece's best-known contemporary artists as well as works by the up and coming.
In addition to these galleries recommended, several museums and other galleries, open most days during normal business hours, emphasize the art and life of Thessaloniki and Macedonia, with particular reference to the lively pre- and post-World War II art scene. These include the Municipal Art Gallery, 162 Vas. Olgas (tel. 2310/425-531), with a collection of 19th- to 21st-century works by Greek artists, many from Thessaloniki, the Gallery of Fine Arts, 1 Nicephoros; Germanou, inside the National Theater Building (tel. 2310/238-601); the State Museum of Contemporary Art in Thessaloniki, 21 Kolokotroni, in the Lazariston Monastery (tel. 2310/589-140; www.greekstatemuseum.gr), with a collection of 20th- and 21st-century Russian art; and the National Bank's Thessaloniki Cultural Center, 108 Vas. Sophias St. (tel. 2310/586-123). Two museums in the art complex housed in renovated waterfront warehouses in the Port of Salonika are reached through Gate A off Koundouriotou St.: the Museum of Photography, Warehouse A (tel. 2310/566-716; www.thmphoto.gr), and the Center of Contemporary Art, Warehouse B1 (tel. 2310/546-683; www.cact.gr). Galleries are free; museum admissions are usually 3€.
Catching a Local Festival -- If you are in Salonika in September, check with the GNTO for details on the weeklong wine festival usually held in Anhialos, a village 15km (9 miles) northwest of Thessaloniki. Traveling around May 21? Check out the celebrations in the village of Langadas, 20km (9 miles) northeast of Thessaloniki. It's one of only a few places in Greece and Bulgaria where the devout walk on fire (coals, actually). No one is really sure why the anastenarides (firewalkers) do this: Theories include the survival of a pagan custom or the commemoration of an occasion when the devout saved icons from a church conflagration without suffering any burns.
23 Results
- Religious Site
Alatza Imaret
Along with the Bezesteni, the Alatza Imaret, a former 15th-century mosque with a poorhouse, or almshouse, is one of the best-preserved Turkish buildings in Thessaloniki. Alatza (many-colored) refers to the tiles and stones that covered the mosque in its glory days. If you're lucky,… - Landmark
Arch of Galerius
If you need directions here, try asking for ee kamara (the arch), which is what Thessalonians call this hefty monument built by Galerius around A.D. 305 to celebrate a victory over the Persians. Originally, the arch was even larger: Almost half -- another entire arch -- is missing.… - Museum
Archaeological Museum
A superb collection of artifacts, the Archeological Museum houses important finds excavated from an archaic temple at nearby Thermi, tombs at Sindos, the Egnatia highway (the ancient road from Rome to Constantinople), the Thessalonki-Skopje road, and a railway line. The collection…Downtown
- Historic Site
Atatürk's Birthplace
It's a sign of Salonika's rich Turkish past that Mustafa Kemal (Atatürk), the man who created the modern Turkish state and was its first president, was born here in 1881. You can get permission to visit Ataturk's modest birthplace by applying at the Turkish consulate at 151 Ayiou… - Religious Site
Ayia Katerini
Another of Thessaloniki's 14th-century churches, built with a central dome flanked by four cupolas, is surrounded by apartment buildings and old homes. With elegant brick and stone work, it is a reminder of one of the city's finest artistic periods. Inside, look for the painting… - Religious Site
Ayia Sofia
It's a pity that Thessaloniki's two most important churches -- Ayia Sofia (Holy Wisdom) and Ayios Dimitrios (St. Demetrios) -- are both heavily restored. Still, each is worth visiting for its importance in the city's history and for its fine mosaics, although both lack the pleasantly… - Religious Site
Ayios Dimitrios (aka Church and Crypt of Ayios Demetrios)
Like Ayia Sofia, Ayios Dimitrios was heavily restored -- in fact, almost entirely rebuilt -- after the fire of 1917. Consequently, this is a church with an imposing history, some fine mosaics, but very little soul. That's a shame, because the story of Dimitrios is stirring: In the… - Religious Site
Ayios Nikolaos Orfanos
Like Osios David, this seemingly unprepossessing brick-and-stone church holds an astonishing treasure: well-preserved frescoes from the 14th century, the zenith of Thessaloniki's artistic excellence. You can pick out haloed St. Nikolaos himself, standing at the helm of the little… - Religious Site
Ayios Panteleimon
This 14th-century church, dedicated to one of the physician saints, is a popular place to light a candle and say a prayer for good health. The church, all that remains of a large monastery, is usually closed, but its elaborate brick- and stonework makes even a glimpse a delight. If… - Landmark
Galerius's Palace
The emperor Galerius built himself a palace in Thessaloniki. After all, his co-emperor Diocletian was building himself a splendid palace at Split, on the Dalmatian coast. Little remains of Galerius's royal home, but even these low ruins give you an idea of the size of the two-story… - Historic Site
Greek Agora and Roman Forum
In the 1960s, workmen digging to lay the foundations of new law courts for Thessaloniki came across the remains of the city's ancient Greek agora, which later became the Roman forum. Archaeologists took over and excavated the sprawling complex you see today. As in Athens, this… - Landmark
Hippodrome
We know that the ancient Hippodrome, where chariot races took place, lies under the square of the same name, because of finds made when modern apartments were built. There are almost no aboveground remains of this ancient racetrack where, in A.D. 390, Emperor Theodosius the Great… - Neighborhood
International Fairgrounds
If you're in Thessaloniki during the September Trade Fair, you may want to take in some of the exhibits. Notices of special exhibitions or events are usually posted throughout the city. If you're interested in the contemporary Greek art scene, stop in at the sleek modern building… - Landmark
Lambrakis Monument
On May 22, 1963, right-wing forces ran down and killed Grigoris Lambrakis, a leftist member of the Parliament, who had been speaking at a peace meeting. Vassilis Vassilikos based his novel Z on Lambrakis's death; Costa-Gavras then adapted the novel for his film starring Yves Montand.… - Museum
Macedonian Museum of Contemporary Art
This noteworthy museum has a growing permanent collection of installation art, videos, sculpture, painting, photography, and holograms by contemporary Greek and foreign artists, including work by Dennis Oppenheim and an Andy Warhol screen-print of Alexander the Great. Temporary…Downtown - Museum
Museum of Byzantine Culture
Right next to the archaeological museum is this cultural gem, awarded the Council of Europe's museum prize in 2005. We'd say it is one of the finest Greek museums outside of those in Athens itself, and arguably has the best collection of Byzantine artifacts in the country. It…Downtown - Religious Site
Osios David (Latomou Monastery)
I manage to get lost almost every time I come here, but eventually find my way to this charming 5th- or 6th-century church, with its comfortable, shaded courtyard. Indeed, what a tempting fantasy to think of taking over the caretaker's job, sitting with a book in the little shelter… - Religious Site
Panagia Acheiropoietos (Church of the Virgin Made Without Hands)
This 5th-century basilica is the only church from Thessaloniki's early Christian days to have survived pretty much intact, without the restorations and renovations that have changed the characters of Ayia Sofia and Ayios Dimitrios. The church's name comes from an early Christian icon… - Religious Site
Panagia Chalkeon (Virgin of the Copper Workers)
This tiny church with its three domes looks as if it would fit nicely into a miniature village. It has some fine frescoes, but its real glory is its facade, with windows piled above windows, domes above domes. Like the Panagia Acheiropoietos, the 11th-century Panagia Chalkeon now… - Religious Site
Profitias Elias
This 14th-century church has an elaborate brick exterior well worth seeing. Women, who cannot visit Mount Athos, will get an idea from Profitias Elias of the cross-in-square style (with central dome) that is similar to many of the churches on Mount Athos. If you head back into town… - Landmark
Rotunda (aka Ayios Yioryos)
Some say that Galerius built this massive brick-and-stone structure as his immodest mausoleum, while others think he intended it to be a temple, perhaps of Zeus. Later in the 4th century, the Byzantine emperor Theodosius the Great converted the Rotunda into Ayios Yioryos (Church of… - Religious Site
Vlatodon Monastery (aka Vlatades)
As you toil uphill, you'll keep seeing the overhanging walls of the Vlatodon Monastery, founded in the 14th century. In the last few years it has been renovated and expanded, and has lost its "old" feeling. Still, the inner courtyard is a cool spot to rest for a moment. Cool, but not… - Landmark
White Tower
What Big Ben is to London, and the Eiffel Tower is to Paris, the 16th-century White Tower is to Thessaloniki. It is the city's most famous landmark, although the tower is no longer white; a 1985 restoration (as part of the celebrations of the 2,300th anniversary of Thessaloniki's…
More About Thessaloniki Attractions
Thessaloniki Shopping
Lots of Greeks think that their second-largest city offers better shopping than Athens, in part because the compact city center makes it easy to explore the major shopping districts. Also, because Thessaloniki is relatively tourist-free, you won't be overwhelmed here by streets lined with garish souvenir and T-shirt shops, as is the case in much of Athens, especially the Plaka district. Keep in mind that in Thessaloniki -- as throughout Greece -- most chic boutiques stock imported goods from Europe and the States, usually with a hefty import duty that is passed on to the customer. If you shop the winter (Jan) and summer (late July and Aug) sales, you may find some bargains.
Some shops still sell crafts by local artists, including coppersmiths. Not surprisingly, many of these shops are near the church of Panagia Chalkeon (Virgin of the Copper Makers) in Dikasterion Square. The website www.virtualtourist.com has lots of Thessaloniki shopping suggestions, but keep in mind that prices at most boutiques listed will be well in excess of what you would pay in the USA or Great Britain.
More About Shopping -- In Thessaloniki, old-style, pre-European Community shopping hours, unfathomable to foreigners, still predominate. Stores open at about 9am and close around 1:30 or 2pm for the afternoon siesta. On Tuesday, Thursday, and Friday evenings, some (but not all) reopen from about 5:30 to 8:30pm. In July, however, almost all shops close for the evening. The best time to shop is morning. Note that some of these stores will take major credit cards, but almost all, especially the smaller ones, prefer not to. As a Greek friend reminds me, "If we don't have the money in our wallet, we don't buy something."
Antiques
You'll find a number of antiques shops on Mitropoleos and Tositsa streets. Tip: Reputable shops will explain that you'll need an export license to take out of Greece any item more than 100 years old. The Wednesday street market area around the Rotunda (Agios Yiorgos Church) has a number of stalls with pseudo and genuine antiques, as well as a lot of, well, junk.
Books, Newspapers & Magazines
Ianos, 7 Aristotelous (tel. 2310/277-164); Travel Bookstore (tel. 2310/275-215); and Malliaris, 9 Aristotelous (tel. 2310/276-926), have wide selections of Greek and foreign books, as well as other publications. Molho long the oldest and finest bookstore in Thessaloniki, closed early in 2009.
Fashion
For both men's and women's fashions, try the department stores such as Lambropoulos or the chic -- and expensive -- boutiques on Tsimiski and on pedestrian walkway Dimitriou Gounari. But, remember: nearly anything here will be more expensive than in London or New York.
Gifts & Souvenirs
Almost all the museums have gift shops with some excellent museum reproductions; Athonos Square, off Egnatia, has some handicraft shops and Nikis Street, along the harbor, has a sprinkling of small shops with souvenirs.
Leather
If you want good-quality leather, resist the eastern European leather vendors who set up stalls on many street corners.
Music
Blow Up: The Music Stores, 8 Aristotelous, on the east side of the street a block north of Tsimiski (tel. 2310/233-255); Patsis, 39 Tsimiski, at the corner of Aristotelous (tel. 2310/231-805); Studio 52, 46 Dimitrious Gounari (tel. 2310/271-301), and En Chordes, 3 Ipodromiou (tel. 2310/282-248), sell many kinds of musical instruments and CDs, including Byzantine music.
Sweets
In a city where sweetness is next to godliness, the venerable Agapitos, 53 Tsimiski (tel. 2310/279-107), gets rave reviews, as does Hatzi, 50 Venizelous (tel. 2310/279-058). All are made with great, mouthwatering, high-caloric care. One of the branches of the excellent sweet shop, Terkenlis (tel. 2310/271-148; www.terkenlis.gr), is nearby at 30 Tsimiski, so you can easily compare and contrast. Both are closed on Sunday. Don't panic: Averof, 11 Vas. Georgiou (tel. 2310/814-284; www.averof.gr), Thessaloniki's famous kosher bakery, is usually open 365 days a year.
Thessaloniki Nightlife
If you think that everyone in Thessaloniki is rushing somewhere all day, just wait until nightfall. It seems like everyone in town stops at a favorite cafe on the way home from work and then heads out to dinner -- this, before or after taking in a play or concert at one of the city's many theaters, concert halls, and nightclubs with live entertainment. Though many publications list events and posters splattered everywhere announce them, almost all will all be Greek (or possibly Russian or Japanese) to you. Ask for information at your hotel, or stop by the office of the Greek National Tourism Organization (EOT), 136 Tsimiski (tel. 2310/221-100; www.mintour.gr).
Meanwhile, the city seems festooned with enough bars and clubs to serve a population twice its size, yet all of them are crowded to the bursting point -- and more open every year. For some of the liveliest nightlife in town, try one of the cafes in the waterfront Ladidika district, or along the harbor on Nikis Street, or head inland to Athoonos Square, or sample the cafes on pedestrianized Zefxidos and Iktinos streets.
The Performing Arts
Kratiko Theatro (State Theatre of Northern Greece) has two venues. In winter, it stages plays in the Royal State Theatre, next to the White Tower (tel. 2310/860-966); in summer, it stages plays at Theatro Dasous (Forest Theatre), an open-air amphitheater in the forested hilltop area east of the Upper City (tel. 2310/245-307). The company presents ancient and modern Greek plays, as well as Greek translations of foreign plays by authors as varied as Christopher Marlowe and Arthur Miller.
In summer, the Forest Theatre, which has a marvelous view of the city, also hosts lively, well-attended concerts by popular Greek singers and composers, as well as performances by visiting ballet companies.
Thessaloniki's splendid Megaron Mousikis (Concert Hall), 25 Martiou and Paralia (tel. 2310/895-800; www.tch.gr), opened in 2000; in 2009, the excellent Thessaloniki State Orchestra celebrated its 50th anniversary. Check with your hotel concierge or at the hall for a concert schedule. Aristotle University Concert Hall also hosts concerts (it's on Nea Egnatia, opposite the northern entrance of the International Trade Fairgrounds) September through May (tel. 2310/283-343).
Festivals
Demetria Festival -- October 26, St. Dimitrios's day is celebrated all over Greece, but in Thessaloniki, the celebration lasts for weeks. The festival, which gets bigger every year, started with a Greek film festival and now includes many theatrical and musical events.
The Feast of Sts. Constantine & Eleni (May 21) -- On or around the feast of the first Christian emperor and his mother, villagers in Ayia Eleni (80km/50 miles northeast of Thessaloniki) and at Langadas (12km/7 miles northeast of Thessaloniki) engage in pirovassia (fire dancing). Crowds come from all over Macedonia to see the faithful dance over a bed of hot coals. When they're done, they feast on the roasted black bull sacrificed earlier in the day. In case you're wondering -- yes, much of what's done here preserves pre-Christian rites.
International Trade Fair Festival -- This takes place every year during the first 2 weeks in September and draws businesspeople from around the world. The international fairgrounds have lots of exhibits, so hotel rooms are hard to find -- and expensive (often double normal prices).
The Bar, Club & Music Scene
In July and August, many of Thessaloniki's best bars and clubs shut down. Some immediately reopen branches along a section of the road leading east along the coast, about a mile before the airport. This, plus the fact that new or newly decorated and renamed venues are constantly opening while others go out of fashion and close, makes it virtually impossible to recommend any with certainty. No one ever answers the phone at these places and most addresses are not visible, so I am not listing either.
Most of these places are open virtually 24 hours a day; some have gaggles of unattached but alert singles looking for action in its many manifestations. Others are teeming with more staid locals. In short, take a stroll; start with harborside Nikis Street and you'll eventually spot the bar scene that suits you best.
In town, in the summer of 2011, Greek friends of mine were heading to bars like Urban and the improbably named Pasta Flora Darling! on Zefxidos Street, but they were pretty sure they'll be looking for new spots in a year or two. On the Ladadika waterfront, by the State Museum of Contemporary Art (www.greekstatemuseum.gr; housing a surprising collection of contemporary Russian paintings), you can begin or end your revels with breakfast at the Kitchen Bar in Warehouse B.
A couple of neighborhoods churn out new favorites in nightlife year after year. In Ladadika, try the spots along Katouni Street and around Agia Sophia Square, check out Zefkidos Street. Keep going west and you pass from Ladadika into the neighborhood of Xyladika, where lots of warehouses and shops around the old railroad station are being converted into bars and galleries. You'll probably enjoy exploring Xyladika more with Greek friends than on your own. Along Nikis Street, check out Elvis, which often has a D.J, Tribeca, DaDA, Thermaikos, the oddly named Pollock, and the drop-dead understatedly elegant Daios (often with jazz Fri-Sat). Best of all, get a local with similar tastes to give you some tips.
