Restaurants in Tianshui

Beidao Qu may not be a culinary paradise, but it sports honest eateries serving generous portions for around ¥10 per person. Elbow past the locals to find a seat in Niu Dawan, a halal restaurant north of the bus station on Er Ma Lu. There's one dish to order -- niurou mian (beef noodles), and two choices to make -- thick (kuan) or thin (xi) noodles, and whether to add more beef (jia rou).

A friendly establishment just west of the Gonghui Dasha, the Tian Xi Xiaochidian is run by three retired sisters and serves filling chao mian (stir-fried noodles) or a stone bowl of bubbling shaguo jikuai (chicken clay pot), both of which are perfect after a hike in the mountains.