Things To Do in Timisoara

To the southern end of the center, the Bega Canal forms a natural boundary between the old and newer parts of the city, surrounded on both banks by expansive Parcul Central (Central Park), favored by amorous students from the University of West Timisoara. North of the center are the Botanical Gardens, and nearby, tucked behind remnants of the city's ancient bastion walls, is the city's subdued open-air market, selling fresh farm consumables; visit the stalls in the middle for excellent honey as well as traditional herbal medicines. Near the market is Strada Gheorghe Lazar, for a selection of good fashion outlets. Also in the vicinity is the Great Synagogue, Str. Marasesti 6, which, at press time, was scheduled to reopen after extensive renovation. The city's main areas of interest, however, are its squares and pedestrianized boulevards, surrounded on all sides by architecturally idiosyncratic buildings that form an elegant backdrop to the public lives on display. All day long, people gather for drinks and gossip energetically; it's an atmosphere of complete civil flamboyance in a city largely remembered as the site of some of the most brutal political martyrdoms in recent Romanian history.

Piata Victoriei -- lorded over by the delightful Metropolitan Orthodox Cathedral at its southern end -- is where the first blows of the great December 1989 Revolution were struck; you can still see bullet holes in some of the buildings, bizarre given the exuberant atmosphere of the square's high-society life. At the southern end, in front of the Orthodox Cathedral, is the Luna Capitolina, a monument to the victims of the revolution. At the north end is the city's 18th-century National Theater and Opera House (Teatrul National si Opera Româna), Str. Marasesti 2 (tel. 0256/20-1284), not much to look at, but a fine place for an evening of culture. From the Orthodox Cathedral, it's an almost straight route north through Piata Victoriei, past the opera house and then along Alba Iulia into Piata Libertatii, "Liberty Square," the small square that is the city's historical center. This is where, in the early 16th century, the leader of the peasant uprising then raging across Transylvania was executed in public view before his followers were forced to eat pieces of his burned flesh. Now the public view is of languid sessions on cafe terraces, in full view of the baroque Old Town Hall (1734), housing the university's music school. Following the road north past the town hall, you will soon arrive at Piata Unirii, a large square surrounded by monumental, colorful baroque buildings and centered on a column erected in memory of victims of plague which struck in the 1730s. While you'll have your work cut out for you choosing which cafe or lounge-style terrace bar to arrange yourself at, it's worth first taking in some of the more noteworthy monuments, particularly the pale yellow Serbian Orthodox Church and -- on the other side of the square -- the Roman Catholic Cathedral, both built in the mid-1700s. At the southern edge of Piata Unirii, Strada Palanca leads east past the Art Museum, the Dicasterial Palace, and then finally to the Banat Ethnographic Museum.

Touring the Revolution

In December 1989, after 45 years of Communism, ordinary Romanians had tired of the oppression, poverty, and enforced slavery to a system that controlled all facets of life. Ceausescu had effectively cut his country off from the outside world, supplying citizens with only what little propaganda he deemed appropriate. While official reports spoke of industrial might and technological progress, in reality ordinary people were starving and those who spoke out were quickly silenced. In western frontier cities like Timisoara, however, media reports seeping in from nearby Hungary probably contributed to a more cantankerous social atmosphere. As the country prepared to celebrate another morbid Christmas, the long-awaited cries for change suddenly became roaring protests.

Over a period of 10 days, beginning with urgent gatherings in Timisoara, protestors demonstrated their opposition to the regime, destroying its symbols and burning effigies of Ceausescu, and chanting "Down with Ceausescu! Down with Communism! We want liberty!" The revolution is believed to have been sparked by a gathering at the Tökés Reform Church (Biserica Reformata Tökés), Str. Timotei Cipariu 1 (tel. 0256/49-2992), south of the Bega Canal; here, on December 15, thousands of protestors rallied together to oppose the Securitate's planned eviction of Pastor Lászlo Tökés, a known opponent of the Ceausescu regime.

In what many believe was a calculated opportunity, the small uprising quickly escalated, gaining momentum as it heaved toward Piata Victoriei (Victory Square). For 3 days, the rally continued, culminating in Ceausescu's order to open fire. Look carefully for evidence of the event; you'll find bullet holes and plaques around the long, broad square now surrounded by relaxed cafes and boutiques. At one end of the square, across a busy road, the Orthodox Cathedral is where many young protestors lost their lives.

Near Piata Unirii is the Museum of the December 1989 Uprising, Str. Emanuil Ungureanu 8 (daily 8am-4pm; donations expected), which charts the events of the revolution through detailed exhibits, including photographs, paintings, and a 30-minute video, and dutifully looked after by Dr. Traian Orban, himself a survivor who was shot during the uprising. The museum is also where you can pick up a map indicating 12 significant points around the city that form a walking open-air museum, so you can literally tour the revolution.

For event listings, pick up a free issue of 24-Fun Timisoara, in Romanian with fragments of English, but which gives a fairly good idea of what's on and where.

Timisoara enjoys strong cultural associations and is proud of having independent German, Hungarian, and Romanian theaters; first up on the list of highlights is an opera or drama at the National Theater and Opera House, Str. Marasesti 2 (tel. 0256/20-1284). For an evening of classical music, head to the other end of Piata Victoriei to find the State Philharmonic Theater (Filharmonia de Stat Banatul), B-dul C.D. Loga 2 (tel. 0256/49-2521), to the left of the cathedral. Tickets for both venues are available at Agentia Teatrala, Strada Marase sti (tel. 0256/49-9908; Tues-Sun 10am-1pm and 5-7pm), just around the corner from the opera house entrance. For jazz, the best place is Jazz Club Pod 16, Pod Piata Maria (tel. 0729-945-397; www.jazzclubpod16.ro), which has something to look forward to every night of the week; look out especially for an outfit named Tapinarii.

Komodo, Str. Gheorghe Lazar (tel. 0722-279-177; daily 9am-late) is the city's best lounge bar, slickly designed for a chic crowd; there's a dance floor downstairs and the music varies from retro to house, but the atmosphere in the cocktail lounge is decidedly "Buddha Bar." To get your spirits up, order a Velvet Hammer or Playa Azul; caipirinhas and caipiroskas are the best in the Banat. Komodo occupies an unmarked building; look out for the round streetlights out front.

Lounging by the River -- A favorite venue for a late afternoon cocktail or early evening aperitif is D'arc, which occupies a tranquil spot below the Podul Episcopiei bridge. To reach it, follow Boulevard Ferdinand I along the edge of the leafy park behind the Orthodox Cathedral; instead of crossing the bridge, go down the stairs (if you get lost, call tel. 0722-891-085). You can mellow out on one of the wood-and-cloth director's chairs on the riverside terrace, or sit on the deck built over the river itself. Cocktails run the gamut from mai tais to the "Angel's Tit," and there are superb alcoholic coffees, too. Café Brulot is made with cognac, Cointreau, and cream -- perfect after dining out. Tunes are upbeat -- lounge, ambient, and smooth electronic tracks -- and there's a lively nighttime crowd. Incidentally, if you're up for something more rigorous, riverside D'arc is actually an extension of a popular club on Piata Unirii; go there if you're up for a bit of fun with a local crowd.