Restaurants in Tinos

As usual, it's a good idea to avoid most harborfront joints, where food is generally inferior and service can be rushed -- although, if you are catching a ferry and want a quick bite, the service can seem interminable. Be sure you know which quay your ferry is leaving from to avoid any last-minute dashes through crowds of embarking and disembarking passengers. One special place to try is Etan Ena Mikro Karavi ("There Was a Little Boat"; tel. 22830/22-818; www.mikrokaravi.gr) in a narrow alleyway off Trion Hierarchon. This place is gorgeous, with a lovely garden, elegant indoor dining room, and inventive and delicious food (risotto with mushrooms, lamb with couscous, fresh fish, and for dessert a chocolate tart with homemade vanilla ice cream and caramel sauce). To my considerable distress, this place had not yet opened for the season when I was last on Tinos, and I had to make do with reading the menu and hearing from friends how very good everything is. Dinner for two starts at around 50€.

If, on the other hand, you just want a pizza (10€ and up), head to Mesklies (tel. 22830/22-151) on the harbor. Mesklies also has some of the best pastry in town, at shops on the harbor and on Evangelistra Street. For the best coffee -- and a full pot of it for only 2 € -- try Le Caffe, also on the harbor. Le Caffe also has the best loukoumades (like doughnut holes, but drenched in honey, sprinkled with cinnamon, and if you wish, topped with ice cream).

Special Moments in Tinos Town -- If you're lucky, while you're trying to decide what to have for lunch or dinner at a restaurant in Tinos, you'll become aware of family celebrations taking place at other tables. Why, you may wonder, is that young couple dancing on one of the tables and passing their screaming toddler from guest to guest? Why is everyone kissing him and pinching his cheeks? Families come from all over Greece to baptize their children at the Panagia Evangelistria Cathedral. After the ceremony, it's time to celebrate (which means lots of food, wine, and dancing). If you're lucky, you may get to kiss the baby and toast the occasion. Be sure to say "Na sas zee-soun" ("May he live for you") to the proud parents.