Tioman's beaches can be hit-or-miss. Around Tekek, much of ABC, and spots north of the Berjaya resort, rocks spoil the beach and shallow waters. Salang's beach, a crescent of sand hugging a horseshoe-shaped cove, presents the best beach on the west side of the island. The most ideal beach, however, is on Juara, on the east side of the island. This broad, sandy stretch is practically deserted half the time due to its remote location -- to get there, either hop a water taxi, take the daily ferry, or hike overland. The trek from Tekek to Juara cuts across the center of the island and will take up to 2 hours to complete, or you can take a 4x4 overland for about RM25 per person, but they will usually make the trip only for a group of four unless you pay extra.
Tioman Dive Centre operates from the Samudra Swiss Cottage in Kampung Tekek (tel. 09/419-1228; www.tioman-dive-centre.com), offering dive trips and PADI courses, jungle trekking, and boat trips with snorkeling. Expect to pay RM95 per dive, which includes tank and weights; RM20 for additional equipment rental. The fees are discounted depending on the number of dives you organize with them.