Things To Do in Tobago
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Tobago Attractions
If you'd like a close-up view of Tobago's many rare and exotic tropical birds, as well as a range of other island wildlife and lush tropical flora, naturalist-led field trips are the answer. Each 5-hour trip leads you to forest trails and coconut plantations, along rivers and past waterfalls; one excursion even goes to two nearby islands. Trips cost $8 to $13. For details, contact Newton George, Speyside (tel. 868/660-5463 or 868/754-7881; www.newtongeorge.com).
Tobago's capital, Scarborough, need claim your attention only briefly before you climb up the hill to Fort King George, about 130m (427 ft.) above the town. Built by the English in 1779, it was later captured by the French, then tossed back and forth among various conquerors until a hurricane devastated the city in 1847. You can view the ruins of a military hospital and also see artifacts displayed at the Tobago Museum (tel. 868/639-3970), in the fort's old barracks. Admission is $1, and hours are Monday to Friday 8:30am to 4:30pm.
From Scarborough you can drive northwest to Plymouth, Tobago's other town. Perched on a point at Plymouth is Fort James, which dates from 1768. Now it's mainly in ruins.
From Speyside in the north, you can make arrangements with a local fisherman to go to Little Tobago, a 180-hectare (445-acre) offshore island whose bird sanctuary attracts ornithologists. The 20-minute crossing is likely to be rough, but the effort is worth it. Threatened with extinction in New Guinea, many birds -- perhaps 50 species -- were brought over to this little island in the early part of last century. The islet is arid and hilly, with a network of marked trails.
Off Pigeon Point in the south is Buccoo Reef, where sea gardens of coral and hundreds of fish can be seen in waist-deep water. This is the natural aquarium of Tobago, offering the island's best snorkeling and scuba diving. Nearly all the major hotels arrange boat trips here.
Tobago Shopping
In Tobago's capital, Scarborough, you can visit the local market Monday to Saturday mornings. Scarborough's stores have a limited range of merchandise, more to tempt the browser than the serious shopper.
Farro's, Wilson Road (no phone), across from the marketplace, offers the tastiest condiments on the island, packed into little straw baskets for you to carry back home. Sample the delectable lime marmalade, any of the hot sauces, the guava jelly, and most definitely the homemade tamarind chutney.
If you're seeking handicrafts, especially straw baskets, head for the Shaadijas Souvenir & Gift Shop, Port Mall (tel. 868/660-1000), also in Scarborough.
Cotton House Fashion Studio, Old Windward Road, Bacolet (tel. 868/639-2727), is the island's best choice for "hands-on" appreciation of the fine art of batik. In the Indonesian tradition, melted wax is brushed onto fabric, resisting dyes and creating unusual colors and designs. This outlet contains the largest collection of batik clothing and wall hangings on Tobago. Dying techniques are demonstrated to visitors, who can then try their skills.
The Tobago Art Gallery, Hibiscus Drive, Lowlands (tel. 868/631-1424; www.tobagoartgallery.com), across from the Tobago Hilton, features the works of at least 10 artists. On permanent exhibit upstairs is a collection of island watercolors by Rachel Superville and her husband, Martin. Sculptures and a number of handicrafts are also sold here.
Tobago Nightlife
Your best bet for entertainment is at the Mount Irvine Bay Hotel at Mount Irvine Bay (tel. 868/639-8871), where you might find some dance action or a steel band performing by the beach or pool.
Grafton Beach Resort at Black Rock owns one of the island's most charming bars, Buccaneer's Beach Bar (tel. 868/639-0191; www.buccaneersbeachbar.com), across from the resort. Here you'll find a wide wood terrace sheltered by a grove of almond trees. Daily specials written up on a surfboard include burgers, fried fish, and the like (don't expect the elegant beachside Creole cooking of Martinique). The resort itself offers cabaretlike entertainment nightly. Try to catch the local troupe, Les Couteaux Cultural Group, which performs a version of Tobagonian history set to dance.
Want some local action? Try Bonkers, Store Bay Road at Crown Point (tel. 868/639-7173), a lively bar where you'll hear the best soca, reggae, or jazz on the island. If you've been "bad," the DJ might order you to walk the gangplank into the pool.
