From Piazza del Popolo, going around the right side of Palazzo dei Priori then taking a right at Piazza Jacopone will lead you to Todi's second major sight. The massive Franciscan shrine of San Fortunato was begun in 1291, but finishing touches dragged on to 1459. Cross the gardens to see the central doorway carvings, testament to the greatness the rest of the facade could have had. It's a late-Gothic tangle of religious, symbolic, and just plain naked figures clambering around vines or standing somberly under teensy carved Gothic canopies. Inside, the church is remarkably bright, as Italian churches go, and the whitewashed walls of the chapels sport many bits and pieces of what must once have been spectacular, colorful 14th- and 15th-century frescoes. The oldest of the surviving fragments are Masolino's 1432 Madonna and Child with Angels, in the Capella de San Michele Arcangelo (on the right), and the 1340 Banquet of Herod in the Capella del Santissimo Crocifisso (on the left). Todi's main Franciscan mystic, Fra' Jacopone, lies in a tomb created in 1596 in a specially-designed section of the crypt (steps lead down in front of the altar). A monument to the 13th-century poet and ascetic monk stands outside, back on Via Ciuffelli. The statue at the altar is of San Fortunato (a 6th-century bishop of Todi and now its patron saint), finished in 1643 -- his arm is supposedly preserved in a silver reliquary in the Capella di San Fortunato, on the left. Paid tickets are required to climb the Campanile di San Fortunato (bell tower), with its gasp-inducing views over the city.