Things To Do in Tonder

To see the antique homes built by the lacemakers during the heyday of Tønder's prosperity, wander up and down the main street, which changes its name several times: Østergade becomes Storegade, and finally Vestergade. Most of these stately mansions, which are characterized by richly carved portals, were built in the 17th and 18th centuries. The actual lacemakers lived on the smaller side streets, Uldgade and Spikergade, and their houses were more modest, but still worthy to explore. Most of these houses on the latter two streets were built in the 1600s with bay windows. Actually, in our view, Uldgade is the most colorful street in Tønder. A narrow cobblestone lane, it is in many ways the street in Tønder most evocative of old Denmark.

All that remains of the ancient Tønder Castle, victim of border wars with the Germans, is this gatehouse housing the local history of the area, including its lacemaking heyday, with lacy baptismal gowns and fragile doilies of another era. The collection of tiles is exceptional, as they were hand-painted in the Netherlands and brought back home by sailors from the 1600s and 1700s, when they were used as ballast. Once they were in Tønder, locals used them to decorate their homes. Other artifacts and exhibits include regional costumes and even elegant table silver owned by prosperous merchants in the area. The wooden figure with cane, Kagmand, once stood at the Torvet, the marketplace. At one time any citizen who had committed a crime was tied to this figure and publicly whipped -- real S&M stuff.

In the same building as the Tønder Museum is the Sønderjyllands Kunstmuseum, which holds a fine collection of Danish surrealistic art and a collection of contemporary works. Besides the permanent exhibitions, changing art shows are staged here as well.

According to long tradition, the shopkeepers of Tønder -- dressed in old-fashioned costumes -- arrange a pedestrian-zone market in the center of town July 17 and 18. On Saturday, the final market day, there are live music and drinks in the main square, Torvet. Another shopping adventure occurs on August 1, when there's a feast in the pedestrian zone. Shops remain open until 10pm, offering amusements to visitors, with plenty of food and drink, climaxed by a concert in the main square.

On Tuesday and Friday, local vendors sell fish, fruit, cheese, and fresh vegetables in the main square. We always like to gather the makings for a picnic here, to be enjoyed later in the marshland surrounding Tønder.

For such a small town, Tønder has a large number of specialty shops. Many Germans drive across the border to shop here. Various gifts and souvenirs can be purchased at Andersen & Nissen, Storegade 26 (tel. 74-72-13-42).

Back in 1671, Det Gamle Apotek (The Old Pharmacy), Østerg 1 (tel. 74-72-51-11; www.det-gamle-apotek.dk), opened as a pharmacy. But today it's been converted into one of the best Danish handicrafts shops in the area, although the landmark antique structure was left as it used to be, just restored. Even the medicine jars and pharmaceutical equipment are intact, except instead of headache remedies and cures for the gout, you get Danish glassware, handmade ceramics, and various other quality crafts. Din Grønne Skobutik, Østergade 3 (tel. 74-72-48-93), features one of the best collections of women's shoes in town, everything from high heels to the kinds of boots a woman might want for treks through the marshes and forests of Denmark.

Gaveboden, Østergade 10-12 (tel. 74-72-58-29), sells sweaters -- the kind of garments that ward off the fog and damp of a Danish winter yet still manage to make a wearer look appealing. Specialties of the store include alpaca, Angora, and woolen tops with unusual patterns, including plaids. There's even a scattering of garments by Finnish designer Marimekko.