Summer 2018 marked Toronto’s pyro phase: the city became obsessed with flame-cooked fare, and Constantine was at the forefront of the zeitgeist. An elegant dining room fans out around the open kitchen, where chefs in crisp uniforms tend the fires. There are two here: one blazes under the parilla (where Cornish hens and rib eyes roast); the other is a wood-fired brick oven where fennel is caramelized, eggplant is roasted, and pizzas are made. As Chef Craig Harding tells me on a visit: “This is the hearth of our home.”