Less is more is the mantra at this restrained, chef-owned restaurant. There are no flashy signs announcing Dandylion, just a small menu posted in a leaded glass window. The menu, which changes daily, could pass for a series of haikus. It has three starters (one veg, one fish, one meat), a triplet of mains (abiding by the same format as the appetizers), and a trio of desserts to finish. The field-to-fork food changes depending on what local farmers are harvesting that week. Autumn might see a schmaltz-braised chicken served with celery root and rye, while spring is a lighter affair: raw trout, fava beans, and cucumber juice. The food, like the restaurant, is pared down to the essentials. Jason Carter has been called a chef’s chef, making gimmick-free food that’s intended to be eaten, not Instagrammed.