Down a leafy residential street, tucked into the bottom of a postwar A-frame, is one the city's most competent kitchens. The room could pass for a Catalonian cantina: bentwood chairs, flickering candles, encaustic tile accents, and a few Catholic icons hung on the walls for good measure. Edulis is a labor of love from husband-and-wife team Michael Caballo and Tobey Nemeth. The latter charms guests in the dining room while her husband helms the kitchen, producing glorious plates inspired by the Basque, Catalonian, and Occitan regions. Order à la carte, or lean into the experience and let Chef Caballo decide on the feast—he does extraordinary things with mushrooms and seafood. Although the food changes regularly, a few standout items—like the hay-roasted Chantecler chicken carved tableside—are frequent guest stars.
Subway: Bathurst, then streetcar 511 S to Niagara StPhone 416/703-4222 Prices Tasting menus $65–$85 Cuisine Type Spanish Web site Edulis
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