Odawa chef Joseph Shawana’s Davisville restaurant is one of the few places in the city serving bold, exciting Indigenous plates. Of all the excellent game meats on the menu (and there are many, including elk, boar, venison, rabbit, and bison), the (lawfully hunted) harp seal from northern Quebec and Labrador is the most interesting. Raw seal is an acquired taste, like liver from a cow with a proclivity for open-water swimming, and this is the only place in Toronto that serves it. Seared seal loin, by comparison, is accessible and oh so delicious: tender yet lean, with iron-y depth. Dessert here is more than just a sweet afterthought. A sweetgrass crème brûlée is intriguingly herbal and just sweet enough. Kū-kŭm has a well-priced Ontario wine selection. Non-alcoholic options like a house-made cedar soda are also worth trying.
Subway: St. Clair, then bus 74 E to Belsize DrPhone 416/519-2638 Prices Main courses: $22–$32 Cuisine Type Indigenous Web site Kū-kŭm Kitchen
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