Chef Nuit Regular has been the driving force behind Toronto’s Thai craze. At Khao San Road, there were lines out the door for her Northern Thai curries. Here, she’s delving into more delicate fare. Throughout the menu are nods to Royal Thai cuisine, a rare form of Thai cooking differentiated by its beauty (with an emphasis on adding color, texture, and ornament to what would otherwise be common Thai dishes). Vibrancy is key: Dumplings are dyed purple with butterfly pea flowers, and rice is turned bright yellow with turmeric. Even the drinks are visual treats. A padan ice tea, for instance, is ombre, shifting from dark indigo to a mossy green. The 35-seat room is particularly pretty on weekends. During brunch, the marble-tiled space becomes a warm, sun-drenched dream, made all the more delightful as plates of coconut waffles whizz past.
Subway: St. Andrew, then streetcar 504 W to John St.Phone 647/490-5040 Prices Brunch $12–$20; dinner main courses $14–$28 Cuisine Type Thai Web site Kiin
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