In French, the idiom "avoir la banane” means to sport a happy smile. Every patron leaving this modern bistro is sure to head home with a huge, contented grin. The 80-seat Ossington dining room—done up in marble and gold—features art from Canadian superstars such as Douglas Coupland and Talia Shipman. The real showstopper, though, is the crustaceans stacked neatly behind the glass of the raw bar. Pull up a seat at the stone counter and watch with awe as cooks build towering trays of cockles, crabs, lobsters, and oysters. It’s easy to imagine one of these silver towers waltzing through a Jay Gatsby fete. Francophiles will appreciate the unapologetically French menu: bass en croute comes to the table whole, the handsome fish braided in dough, while duck breast with charred endives in a prune jus is cooked to pink perfection. End dinner with a bang by ordering a hand-painted Ziggy Stardust Disco Egg, which, when smashed, reveals hand-rolled Peruvian truffles flavored with apricots, ancho chilies, and coffee beans.