Owner Thanos Tripi named his Ossington restaurant “Mother” in Greek because the food here evokes nostalgic pangs for the Aegean Sea. It’s the food Tripi grew up eating. Nothing is overly complex. A sea bass special is perfection, thanks to grassy, cold-pressed olive oil and not a second too many on the grill. Grilled lamb chops with tzatziki aren’t redefining Greek, but refining it. The plating is thoughtful and the flavors punchy. On weekends, it is nearly impossible to score a table at the last minute in this sliver of a whitewashed dining room.