Jeff Regular met his wife, Nuit, while riding an elephant in Thailand. He was traveling, and she was a local nurse who loved to cook and wanted to face her elephant fears. Shortly after that fateful meeting, the two decided to open a low-key restaurant together in the small town of Pai, in Northern Thailand. They’re bringing those bold Thai flavors to Toronto in a raucous underground room that’s buzzing with energy. Green curry served in a young coconut is delicate but bold. The braised beef in the gaeng masaman—a curry that’s rich (from the peanuts) and tart (thanks to the tamarind)—is so tender it succumbs to the shadow of your fork before it melts in your mouth.