Chef Jun Kim dropped out of high school when he realized he wanted to dedicate his life to sushi. He respected his chef father’s culinary skills, but he knew that he couldn’t learn from a man whom he has called the “Korean Gordon Ramsay.” Instead, he left Toronto and moved back to his native Korea to learn from his uncle, one of the first generation of Korean sushi chefs dedicated to the Japanese craft. After years of perfecting his skills (apparently, learning to make great sushi starts with killing your own fish), Kim has opened this St. Clair West restaurant. The minimalist space (whitewashed bricks, pine beams) brings focus to the food. Wasabi is the real stuff, grated by hand; soya sauce is made in-house. And the sushi is playful. Of course, the nigiri and sashimi are very good, but Kim has fun with the maki. A spicy tuna-avocado maki rolled in popped rice and topped with toasted coconut is anything but orthodox. The omakase here is a great value.
Subway: Dufferin, then bus 29 N to St. Clair WPhone 647/748-7288 Prices Sushi/sashimi sets $14–$35 Cuisine Type Japanese Web site Shunoko
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