Colorful textile wall hangings and hammered copper chandeliers transport diners to Tehran. Ask for a table by the tiled fountain, where calico-colored fish glide and splash. The stews are the culinary highlight. Many plates come in both carnivore and vegetarian permutations. The fesenjān (an hours-long simmered delight of walnut and pomegranate paste), for instance, can be ordered with either chicken or oyster mushrooms.