This Chinatown hole in the wall has a basement entrance that looks more like an abattoir than a restaurant. It doesn’t instill great dining confidence. But the food more than makes up for the uninviting atmosphere. Everything is made in house, from the dumplings to the hand-pulled biangbiang noodles. Specialties include lamb dishes from Shaanxi and Sichuan plates with high Scoville counts. The potato noodles, which taste like a ramen-gnocchi love child, are phenomenal.