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Set in the ruins of an 18th-century sugarcane plantation, the Sugar Mill serves food that is immaculately and expertly prepared. No, it’s not the cutting-edge California-fresh food that years ago set off fireworks at the Sugar Mill, won awards and spun off cookbooks—that, in effect, brought the world to its door. Maybe the world caught up with the Sugar Mill playbook. At any rate, you can expect a quiet, gracious dining experience and often great food. And that setting! It’s hard to believe that this romantic candlelit space was once the old rum distillery’s superheated boiling house—a place of misery in a tropical climate—and that the mottled stone walls are made of cobblestone and rock slab wrenched from the streets of Liverpool nearly 400 years ago to use as ballast in trading ships on their way to the Americas. The walls were likely fashioned by slaves, who strengthened the cornerstones with brain and star coral drawn from the seas 200 yards away.