Trujillo, Honduras Attractions

The main reason why most visitors trek all the way out to Trujillo is for its beaches. Wide golden sands, gentle breezes, very few waves, and even fewer beachgoers make the beaches here seem like deserted islands. The best places to enjoy the sun are in front of the champas below the fort, where you can borrow a beach chair, or near the airport and the Christopher Columbus Resort. Emptier beaches can be found hidden below the road in the small coves that stretch for several kilometers to the west of town.

To the west of Trujillo, down a potholed dirt road, is a string of Garífuna fishing villages. All are home to a few thatched seafood shacks, a basic hospedaje or two, punta music flowing through the air, and serene beaches with rarely a soul in sight. Santa Fe, 12km (7 1/2 miles) from Trujillo, is my favorite stop because of its legendary Comedor Caballero, aka Pete's Place, a traditional Garífuna restaurant on the beach with some of the best seafood on the North Coast. A bit farther out -- and even more difficult to reach -- are the villages and beaches of San Antonio and Guadeloupe. Buses leave from the Cementerio Viejo in the center of town to these villages several times per day.

Trujillo, Honduras Shopping

You can find small artisan shops around Parque Central and towards the beach. The best is Artesma Garífuna (tel. 504/2434-3583) in Barrio Cristales, which sells beach gear, coconut carvings, drums, and an array of little knick-knacks. The gift shop Made in Honduras (tel. 504/2839-2768; www.hondurastreasures.com) opened in 2008 across the road from the airport in a purple and turquoise wooden house. The 100% fair-trade handicrafts, from a co-op of 80 craftspeople, include tree-bark paintings, coffee, jewelry, and nativity scenes from La Mosquitia, Olancho, and the North Coast. Displays in the store describe how most items were made, by which family, and where.

Trujillo, Honduras Nightlife

Rogue's Gallery, sometimes called Jerry's, in the concrete, tin-roofed building near the beach champas, is good for a sunset cocktail or beer. There are a couple of decent beachfront bars beside the Hotel Christopher Columbus that change owners and names with every passing tide. Truxillo Disco, at the edge of a bluff facing the sea, is the most popular disco in town for locals. It's a little bit sketchy. Don't show up before 10pm or you'll be alone. There's no cover.