Divers in the know flock to this modest little resort, which specializes in dive/stay packages. Set in a renovated structure that served as the town's central store in the 1950s, the five one-bedroom self-catering suites are spitting distance from the sapphire seas, each with a full kitchen or kitchenette and living room with sofabed (some furnishings admittedly look like leftovers from the 1950s). From December to April, you can see humpback whales breaching right from your private screened porch. To see the whales up close, book dive packages through Salt Cay Divers ★★★ (www.saltcaydivers.tc; [tel] 540/336-8600). This topnotch, fully equipped PADI dive shop has an inhouse divemaster and offers instruction at every level, whale-watching excursions, sunset cruises, and snorkeling trips to nearby uninhabited islands. You can have the manager stock your fridge with groceries or choose a meal plan at the Coral Reef Bar & Grill ([tel] 649/245-1063), the island's only oceanside café, open for breakfast, lunch, and happy hour daily.