This snazzy little restaurant in Barrio del Carmen has definite attitude, with a contemporary decor that harks back to Op Art and a kitchen inspired by elBulli on a budget—right down to Adrià’s rediscovery of simplicity. So it’s possible to start with something as straightforward as a single perfect anchovy with toast smeared with tomato, or as complex as braised octopus with creamy potatoes and roasted red peppers. Lola also serves a full range of caldosas, rice dishes a little soupier than paellas. Regulars favor the version with duck, wild mushrooms, and crisp bits of ham.