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La Lola

This snazzy little restaurant in Barrio del Carmen has definite attitude, with a contemporary decor harking back to Op Art and a kitchen inspired by elBulli on a budget—right down to Adrià’s rediscovery of simplicity. It’s possible to start with something as straightforward as a single perfect anchovy with toast smeared with tomato, or as complex as braised octopus with creamy potatoes and roasted red peppers. But the main focus is on local rice dishes, especially caldosas, which are soupier than paellas. Regulars favor the version with duck, wild mushrooms, and crisp bits of ham.