Valladolid is not a hotbed of haute cuisine, but the regional specialties are reliably good. Hostería El Marqués, at the Hotel El Mesón del Marqués, turns out the best food in town -- Yucatecan classics and international dishes -- in an achingly romantic setting. Also on the main square, friendly, informal Las Campanas serves tasty food for reasonable prices. Locals like to visit over a meal at the stalls in the Bazar Municipal, next door to the Mesón del Marqués; I like them for a quick, cheap breakfast or a fresh-squeezed orange juice when the heat gets to me (you can also take it to go in a plastic bag with a straw).

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