Things To Do in Vaxjo

In summer, between mid-June and late August, tours on Lake Helgåsjön are conducted aboard the century-old steamer S/S Angaren Thor (tel. 0470/510-43-70), which reigns as one of the oldest wood-fired steamships in Scandinavia today. Don't expect state-of-the-art hardware aboard this ship: Part of the allure derives from old-fashioned brass fittings and a maritime dowdiness that is rapidly on the way to achieving high camp. A 2 1/2-hour tour costs 125SEK ($25/£13); a 7-hour tour, which includes some kind of dinner, goes for 500SEK ($100/£50). Other tours to more distant parts of the lake are arbitrarily scheduled, and are canceled and reactivated according to the weather, prior bookings, and the whim of the owners. For information and reservations, inquire at the local tourist office.

The World's Oldest Working Paper Mill

The small town of Lessebo, on Route 25, 35km (22 miles) west of Orrefors in the heart of the glassworks district, is home to the Lessebo Papermill (tel. 0478/476-91), the world's oldest working producer of handmade paper. In existence since 1693, the mill is open to the public, so you can watch as paper passes through the various stages of production, from cotton pulp to individual sheets that are pressed and hung to dry. There's a gift shop where you can purchase handmade products, and tours are available in English, costing 350SEK ($70/£35) for anywhere from 10 to 22 persons. You should call in advance and make arrangements if you want a formal tour; however, most visitors just show up, collect the English-language pamphlets, stroll around the property, drop into the gift shop, and ask questions of the friendly, polite staff, most of whom speak English. It's open Monday to Friday 7am to 4pm; admission is free.

Between Kalmar and Växjö -- within an hour's drive -- are several glassworks, including Orrefors and Kosta Boda. Kosta Glassworks and Boda Glassworks have been the leading names in Swedish crystal since the 19th century. However, they have pooled their resources to become "Kosta Boda" and now operate as one empire, although many of their original factories still maintain separate identities. Not only can you go on Sweden's grandest shopping trip here, but you also can see master glass blowers -- among the world's finest -- at work.

Buying Swedish Glass

The temperature inside the furnace is 2,066°F (1,130°C). The gatherer reaches into its flaming interior, gathers the glowing melt on the blowing iron, and hands it over to the blower. The caramel-soft material sizzles as it is shaped against wet newsprint in the hands of the gaffer. Only an expert's touch will do now -- a touch schooled by years of experience. When it's time for the gaffer to put the handle on a pitcher, he has to "see" how hot the glass is. If it's too hot, the attachment will run off or go through the pitcher. If it's too cold, it will be impossible to attach. Handblown glass is a living craft, born in the hands of glass workers.

Shopping in the Kingdom of Crystal is one of Sweden's best activities, especially if you keep the following points in mind: An ordinary purchase can save you as much as 75% off stateside prices -- and if you're willing to settle for seconds or glass with certain flaws, you can save still more. On other items, assuming you're getting a bargain, the cost of glass purchased in the "kingdom" can still be about 50% cheaper in Sweden than in the United States, even when shipping costs are added. Even if it is flawed, the glassware sold in the area is superior to what you are likely to find in your local shopping mall back home. Still, it's always best to do some advance scouting of the glass outlets in Stockholm so you'll be familiar with the prices when you arrive. Seek out the red tags in the Växjö outlets; they signal that the glass has been greatly reduced in price for quick clearance. You can always look for special promotional deals that might be offered at any time of the year, depending on an outlet's inventory.

Bumps, discoloration, nicks, and bubbles are the most common faults in "seconds," but sometimes they are virtually unnoticeable except to a trained eye. Ask a factory if it's selling any discontinued styles. These products are invariably marked down for quick clearance. If you're a collector, you no doubt already know that a signed piece of art glass has value, whereas an unsigned piece does not.

Before leaving the store, make absolutely certain that the piece of glass you purchased (obviously not art glass) can go into the dishwasher. If it can't, you'll have to wash the glass by hand. Detergents can cause glass to lose some of its luster.

If you're a light shopper, you can hand-carry your purchases back on the plane, providing they are carefully wrapped. You can also have the store ship your glass home for you. As a rule, shipping costs equal about 30% of the marked price on the item. If your glass arrives broken, take a picture of the damaged merchandise and send it with a letter along with a copy of your receipt to the factory at which you made the purchase. All breakage is replaced.

Finally, count on visiting no more than five outlets per day. Pick up a map at the tourist office in Växjö and devise your attack plan from that.