Planning a trip to Venezuela
Visitor Information
Good tourist information on Venezuela is hard to come by. The country's Ministry of Tourism (MINTUR; tel. 0800/887-4766; www.mintur.gob.ve) offers precious little in the way of information or help geared toward individual travelers, and their website is entirely in Spanish. Your best bet is to search the Internet, or deal directly with hotels and tour operators working in Venezuela. The following websites contain useful information pertaining to the country.
- http://lanic.utexas.edu/la/venezuela: The University of Texas Latin American Studies Department's database features an extensive list of useful links.
In Venezuela -- MINTUR (tel. 0800/887-4766; www.mintur.gob.ve) is the national tourism ministry. Its main office, located in Caracas at the intersection of avenidas Francisco de Miranda and Principal de La Floresta, is open weekdays during business hours. The staff can give you a basic map and some brochures for hotels and attractions; however, they are not really geared to serve as an information source for individual tourists.
For the best tourism information in the country, contact the established tourism agencies, including Akanan Travel & Adventure (tel. 0212/715-5433 or 0414/116-0107; www.akanan.com), Cacao Expeditions (tel. 0212/977-1234; www.cacaotravel.com), Lost World Adventures (tel. 800/999-0558 in the U.S. and Canada, or 0212/577-0303 in Caracas; www.lostworldadventures.com), and Natoura Adventure Tours (tel. 303/800-4639 in the U.S. and Canada, or 0274/252-4216 in Venezuela; www.natoura.com). Most bookstores and many hotel gift shops around the country stock a small selection of maps and useful books (some in English) on Venezuelan history, culture, and tourism.
Entry Requirements
You need a valid passport to enter Venezuela. Upon arrival, citizens and residents of Australia, Canada, Great Britain, New Zealand, and the United States who enter by air or cruise ship are issued a free general visa valid for 90 days.
If you plan to enter Venezuela by sea or land, it is advisable to try to obtain a visa in advance from your nearest Venezuelan embassy or consulate, although, in practice, this is usually not necessary. When applied for in advance through a Venezuelan embassy or consulate, the visa costs BsF65. However, you may be charged more depending on the processing fees and policies of your local embassy or consulate. I've heard reports that you may face an arbitrary charge of between BsF5 and BsF35 at some of the crossings along the borders with Colombia and Brazil.
Venezuela requires children 17 and under traveling alone, with one parent, or with a third party to present a copy of their birth certificate and written, notarized authorization by the absent parent(s) or legal guardian granting permission to travel alone, with one parent, or with a third party. For more details, contact your embassy or consulate.
Venezuelan Embassy Locations -- In Australia & New Zealand: 7 Culgoa Circuit, O'Malley, Canberra, ACT 2606 (tel. 02/6290-2967; fax 02/6290-2911; www.venezuela-emb.org.au)
In Canada: 32 Range Rd., Ottawa, ON KIN 8J4 (tel. 613/235-5151; fax 613/235-3205; www.misionvenezuela.org)
In the U.K.: 1 Cromwell Rd., London SW7 2HW (tel. 020/7584-4206; fax 44/020-7589-8887; http://venezuela.embassyhomepage.com)
In the U.S.: 1099 30th St. NW, Washington, DC 20007 (tel. 202/342-2214; fax 202/342-6820; www.embavenez-us.org)
Customs
You may bring into Venezuela all reasonable manner of electronic devices and items for personal use (including cameras, personal stereos, and laptop computers). Officially, you may bring in up to $3,000 worth of miscellaneous merchandise -- tobacco, liquor, chocolate, and the like. However, this is only loosely enforced. The guiding rule is to try to not attract the interest of immigration officials. Once their interest is piqued, they could decide to give you a hard time.
Money
In January 2008, Venezuela changed its unit of currency from the bolívar (Bs) to the bolívar fuerte (BsF). The change simply involves chopping three decimal points off of the severely devalued bolívar. So BsF1 is equivalent to the old 1,000 Bs. The bolívar fuerte comes in paper bills of 2, 5, 10, 20, and BsF50, while there are coins of BsF1, as well as 1, 5, 10, 12.5, 25, and 50 céntimos. There are 100 céntimos (cents) to each BsF. Tip: Many taxis, small shops, and restaurants are reluctant (and sometimes unable) to change larger denomination bills, so it's always good to try to keep a few smaller notes and coins on hand.
Devaluation -- In January 2010, President Chávez announced a two-tiered devaluation of the Venezuelan currency. So called petrodólares ("oil dollars") would be exchanged at the new official rate of BsF4.30 to the dollar, while certain basic goods, materials, and medical supplies would be imported at the exchange rate of BsF2.30 to the dollar. What this means for tourists and visitors is that all credit card purchases will be billed at the new rate of BsF4.30 to the dollar. A black market still exists for changing hard currency, both dollars and euros, at rates above the official rate. Note that all prices in this book were current at the time of research, which occurred prior to the devaluation, and any prices listed in dollars were converted at BsF2.15 to the dollar.
Currency Exchange & Rates -- At the time of this writing, the official exchange rate was BsF4.30 to US$1. However, the black-market exchange rate is radically different from the official rate. At press time, the unofficial exchange rate was approximately BsF6.40 to the dollar. The most common place to exchange hard currencies for bolívares fuertes at the black-market rate is the Simón Bolívar International airport. While this is technically illegal, and you should be careful about whom you deal with, it is very common. Note that if you are dealing with a Venezuelan-based tour agency, be sure to ask if they would be willing to buy your dollars, euros, or pounds at a more favorable rate. They usually are willing and able to exchange currency for you, and this takes some of the risk out of dealing with an unknown entity at the airport.
Many banks do not exchange foreign currencies, and those that do often make the process cumbersome and unpleasant. But there are currency-exchange offices in most major cities and tourist destinations, as well as 24-hour exchange offices in both the national and international airport terminals at the Simón Bolívar International Airport. While the official money-exchange bureaus at the airport and around Caracas exchange at the official rate, you may find money-exchange offices (casas de cambio) in outlying cities and tourist destinations that give a better rate. All credit card purchases and ATM withdrawals are charged at the official exchange rate.
Getting the Most of Your Bolívares Fuertes -- Exchanging your dollars, euros, or pounds at the black-market rate will more than double your buying power. Prices in this book are listed at the former official exchange rate of BsF2.15 to the dollar. Most restaurants, tour agencies, and attractions set their prices in bolívares fuertes. On the other hand, many hotel prices, particularly at the higher-end hotels, as well as tours, are quoted in and pegged to the U.S. dollar. These hotels and tour agencies then use the current black-market rate to arrive at a bolívar fuerte price. For example, if a hotel charges $100 per night, the price in BsF will be roughly BsF640, which then converts to $149 at the official exchange rate. The bottom line is that if you use dollars or dollars exchanged at the black-market rate, you pay roughly $100; if, however, you use a credit card or exchange money at a bank, you'll be charged $149.
ATMs -- ATMs are readily available in Caracas and most major cities and tourist destinations. Cirrus (tel. 800/424-7787; www.mastercard.com) and PLUS (tel. 800/843-7587; www.visa.com) are the two most popular networks; check the back of your ATM card to see which network your bank belongs to. Use the toll-free numbers to locate ATMs in your destination. It might take a few tries, but you should be able to find one connected to either, or both, of the PLUS and Cirrus systems that will allow you to withdraw bolívares against your home bank account. However, these will be sold to you at the official exchange rate.
Traveler's Checks -- In an era of almost universally accepted bank and credit cards, traveler's checks are becoming less and less common. Most hotels, restaurants, and shops that cater to foreign tourists will still accept and cash traveler's checks -- some will actually change them for you at or near the going black-market exchange rate -- but most will only change them at the official exchange rate, and they often exact a surcharge as well. Money-exchange houses will only change traveler's checks at the official rate and usually charge an additional 1% to 5% fee.
Credit Cards -- Credit cards are widely accepted at most hotels, restaurants, shops, and attractions in all but the most remote destinations. American Express, MasterCard, and Visa have the greatest coverage, with a far smaller number of establishments accepting Diners Club. It is currently common practice to have to show a passport or photo ID when making a credit card purchase in Venezuela. Remember, credit card purchases are billed at the official exchange rate.
To report lost or stolen credit cards or traveler's checks, call the following numbers: American Express, call tel. 0212/206-2796 or collect to tel. 336/393-111; Diners Club, tel. 0212/503-2461; MasterCard, tel. 0800/100-2902; and Visa, tel. 0800/100-2167 or 0212/285-2510.
When To Go
Peak Season -- November through February, when it's cold and bleak in Europe and North America, is the peak season in Venezuela, but you can enjoy the country any time of year. Venezuelans travel a lot within the country on holidays and during the school break lasting from late July through early September. It is often difficult to find a hotel room or bus or airline seat during these holidays, as well as during Christmas and Easter vacations. April through June is a fabulous time to enjoy great deals, deserted beaches, and glorious solitude in the more popular destinations.
Climate -- Venezuela has two distinct seasons: rainy (June-Oct) and dry (Nov-May). The rainy season is locally called invierno (winter), while the dry season is called verano (summer). However, temperatures vary principally according to altitude. Coastal and lowland areas are hot year-round, and temperatures drop as you rise in altitude.
Set at an altitude of some 1,000m (3,280 ft.), Caracas has an average temperature of 72°F (22°C), with little seasonal variation. Daytime highs can reach around 90°F (32°C) on clear sunny days. Nights get a little cooler, but you'll rarely need more than a light jacket or sweater.
Public Holidays -- Official public holidays celebrated in Venezuela include New Year's Day (Jan 1), Carnaval (the Mon and Tues before Ash Wednesday), Easter (Thurs and Fri of Holy Week are official holidays), Declaration of Independence (Apr 19), Labor Day (May 1), Battle of Carabobo (June 24), Independence Day (July 5), Birth of Simón Bolívar (July 24), Día de la Raza, or Discovery Day (Oct 12), and Christmas Day (Dec 25).
Telephone Dialing Info at a Glance
Venezuela's phone system features a standardized system of seven-digit local numbers, with three-digit area codes. Note that you must add a zero before the three-digit area code when dialing from within Venezuela, but not when dialing to Venezuela from abroad.
- To place a call from your home country to Venezuela, dial the international access code (0011 in Australia, 011 in the U.S. and Canada, 0170 in New Zealand, 00 in the U.K.), plus the country code (58), plus the three-digit Venezuelan area code (Caracas 212, Isla de Margarita 295, Mérida 274), plus the seven-digit phone number.
Health Concerns
Common Ailments -- Your chances of contracting any serious tropical disease in Venezuela are slim, especially if you stick to the major tourist destinations. However, malaria, dengue fever, yellow fever, hepatitis, and leptospirosis all exist in Venezuela, so it's a good idea to be careful and consult your doctor before a trip here.
Yellow fever, while very rare, does exist in some remote areas of Venezuela. A yellow fever vaccine, though not required, is often recommended and is good for 10 years. If you do get a yellow fever vaccine, be sure to carry a copy of the proof of vaccination.
Malaria is found predominantly in the jungle areas of the Amazonas and Bolívar states, as well as in the Orinoco Delta. Malaria prophylaxes are often recommended, but several have side effects and others are of questionable effectiveness. Consult your doctor as to what is currently considered the best preventive treatment for malaria. Be sure to ask whether a recommended drug will cause hypersensitivity to the sun; it would be a shame to travel here for the beaches and then have to hide under an umbrella the entire time. If you are in a malarial area, wear long pants and long sleeves, use insect repellent, and either sleep under a mosquito net or burn mosquito coils (similar to incense but with a pesticide).
Of greater concern may be dengue fever. Dengue fever is similar to malaria and is spread by an aggressive daytime mosquito. This mosquito seems to be most common in lowland urban areas, although dengue cases have been reported throughout the country. Dengue is also known as "bone-break fever" because it is usually accompanied by severe body aches. The first infection with dengue fever will make you very sick but should cause no permanent damage. However, a second infection with a different strain of the dengue virus can lead to internal hemorrhaging and may be life threatening. Take the same precautions as you would against malaria.
The most common health concern for travelers to Venezuela is a touch of diarrhea. The best way to protect yourself from diarrhea is to avoid tap water and drinks or ice made from tap water. Those with really tender intestinal tracts should avoid uncooked fruits and vegetables likely to have been washed in tap water, unless you can peel and prepare them yourself.
Vaccinations -- No specific vaccinations are necessary for travel to Venezuela, although it is recommended that you be up-to-date on your tetanus, typhoid, and yellow-fever vaccines. It is also a good idea to get a vaccination for hepatitis A and B.
Health Precautions -- Staying healthy on a trip to Venezuela is predominantly a matter of being a little cautious about what you eat and drink, and using common sense. Know your physical limits and don't overexert yourself in the ocean, on hikes, or in athletic activities. Respect the tropical sun and protect yourself from it. Also try to protect yourself from biting insects, using a combination of repellent and light, loose long-sleeved clothing. I recommend buying and drinking bottled water or soft drinks, although the water in Caracas and in most of the major tourist destinations is reputed to be safe to drink.
Blacking Out
Years of energy mismanagement and poor planning, coupled with severe drought in 2009, have crippled Venezuela's hydroelectric network and output. The government has declared a state of emergency and instituted a range of measures to curb electricity and water use, such as rolling blackouts and water shut downs. No one is immune; even hospitals and streetlights are periodically affected.
Getting Around
By Plane -- Because distances are relatively long and land travel time consuming, Venezuela has an excellent network of commuter airlines servicing the entire country and all major tourist destinations. Fares run around BsF150 to BsF600 each way, depending on destination, distance, availability, and demand. On any internal flight, you have to pay an airport tax of BsF10 to BsF38, depending on the local airport you are using.
By Bus -- Regular and inexpensive buses service all of terrestrial Venezuela. Most popular destinations are also serviced by expreso (express), ejecutivo (executive), and/or de lujo (luxury) buses. In most cases, it's worth the few extra dollars for these options. Two reputable luxury lines are Aeroexpresos Ejecutivos (tel. 0212/266-2321; www.aeroexpresos.com.ve) and Rodovías (tel. 0212/577-6622). There are two principal bus terminals in Caracas, Terminal La Bandera and Terminal del Oriente, although depending on the route, destination, and bus line, you may embark from either of these or a private terminal.
By Car -- I do not recommend a rental car as a means of exploring Venezuela. Many of the top destinations -- Los Roques, Canaima, and Angel Falls, for example -- are inaccessible by car. (Note: The only two destinations included where a car would come in handy are Isla de Margarita and Mérida. In both cases, you'd be better off flying to the destination and renting a car there for the duration of your stay.) Venezuelan drivers are aggressive and ignore most common traffic laws and general rules of road safety. Moreover, roads are not well marked, distances between destinations are considerable, and you run the risk of becoming a target for one of many robbery schemes. If you do decide to rent a car, many of the major international agencies operate in Venezuela, with offices in Caracas (often with a branch at the airport) and in most major cities and tourist destinations. Rates run BsF150 to BsF300 per day.
Your best bet for renting a car, both in terms of rates and reliability, is to choose one of the major international agencies and book in advance from your home country. Avis (tel. 800/331-1084 in the U.S., or 0800/227-7600 in Venezuela; www.avis.com), Budget (tel. 800/472-3325 in the U.S., or 0800/283-4381 in Venezuela; www.budget.com.ve), Dollar (tel. 800/800-3665 in the U.S., or 0212/993-8259 in Venezuela; www.dollar.com), Hertz (tel. 800/654-3001 in the U.S., or 0800/800-0000 in Venezuela; www.hertz.com), and Thrifty (tel. 800/847-4389 in the U.S., or 0800/250-8453 in Venezuela; www.thrifty.com) all have offices both in Caracas and at Simón Bolívar International Airport.
One upside of driving around Venezuela is that gas is amazingly cheap, around BsF .09 per liter, or BsF.35 per gallon.
By Organized Tour -- Considering the current state of affairs, organized tours are a reasonable way to go in Venezuela. The country is still a bit inhospitable and unused to freewheeling independent exploration. The tourism industry here was built top down, with lots of big hotels and big operations that almost seem to not want to waste their time on independent travelers. In many cases, tour operators and wholesalers are able to get better rates on rooms, tours, and transfers than you'd be able to find on your own. Many of them use the hotels and local tour operators recommended in this book.
Akanan Travel & Adventure (tel. 0212/715-5433 or 0414/116-0107; www.akanan.com) is one of my favorite operators on the ground in Caracas. It offers a wide range of tour options. Lost World Adventures (tel. 800/999-0558 in the U.S., or 0212/577-0303 in Caracas; www.lostworldadventures.com) is an excellent operator and a pioneer in Venezuelan travel. It offers a wide range of tour options and can customize a trip to your needs and specifications.
Geodyssey (tel. 020/7281-7788; www.geodyssey.co.uk) is a British operator with a good amount of experience in Venezuela. Journey Latin America (tel. 020/8747-3108; www.journeylatinamerica.co.uk) is a large British operator specializing in Latin American travel, that often has excellent deals on airfare.
Tips on Accommodations
You'll find hotel rooms in all price ranges, although in Caracas and on Isla Margarita, the offerings are skewed toward high-end business travelers -- and rates tend to be high. A dozen or so large, all-inclusive resorts are on Isla de Margarita. However, in Mérida, Canaima, Los Roques, and Los Llanos, you can find delightful small hotels and isolated lodges. While Venezuelan tourism is relatively strong, very few foreign tourists visit Venezuela. Still, there is a major glut of hotel rooms throughout the country, and competition is often fierce. Few of the large hotels actually charge their published or advertised rack rate. You can get especially good deals in the off season and midweek. It always pays to bargain, especially if you book directly by phone, or the Internet. Finally, you can also save substantially if you pay in cash, especially if you exchange at the black-market rate.
Venezuela has a broad network of posadas, small inns, and lodges. If you're looking for a small, intimate hotel experience, your best bets are Mérida and Los Roques, where posadas abound.
When booking a room, if you ask for a double (doble), you may be given a room with two twin beds. If you want a double or queen-size bed, be specific and ask for a cama matrimonial.
I separate hotel listings into several broad categories: Very Expensive, BsF450 and up; Expensive, BsF250 to BsF450; Moderate, BsF150 to BsF250; and Inexpensive, under BsF150 for a double. Rates do not include the 15% goods and services sales tax, unless otherwise specified.
Getting There
By Plane
The Simón Bolívar International Airport (airport code CCS; tel. 0212/303-1330; www.aeropuerto-maiquetia.com.ve) in Maiquetía, 28km (17 miles) north of Caracas, is the gateway to Venezuela and the point of entry for most visitors to the country. There is a departure tax of BsF110 combined with an airport tax of BsF138. The airport tax is sometimes included in the airline ticket price, so be sure to ask before paying twice.
From Australia & New Zealand -- To fly to Venezuela from either Australia or New Zealand, you will almost certainly have to connect via the United States.
From Canada -- Air Canada (tel. 888/247-226; www.aircanada.com) flies several times weekly between Toronto and Caracas. American (tel. 800/433-7300; www.aa.com), Delta (tel. 800/221-1212; www.delta.com), and Mexicana (tel. 800/531-7921; www.mexicana.com) have flights from Montreal, Toronto, and Vancouver to Caracas, connecting through Atlanta, Miami, Los Angeles, or New York.
Numerous charters fly from Toronto and Montreal to Isla de Margarita, particularly during the winter months. Ask your travel agent, check online, or look in the Sunday travel section of your local newspaper to find them.
From Europe & the U.K. -- Air Europa (tel. 902/401-501 in Spain; www.air-europa.com) from Madrid, Air France (tel. 800/237-2747; www.airfrance.com) from Paris, Alitalia (tel. 800/223-5730; www.alitalia.com) from Rome and Milan, Iberia (tel. 800/772-4642; www.iberia.com) from Madrid, and Lufthansa (tel. 800/645-3880; www.lufthansa.com) from Frankfurt all offer regular service to Venezuela. Santa Bárbara (tel. 212/204-4000; www.sbairlines.com) flies direct from Madrid several times weekly.
From the U.S. -- American Airlines and Delta Airlines have regular direct service to Caracas from several different U.S. hub cities. Venezuelan airline Santa Bárbara also has one daily direct flight from Miami. Mexicana and Taca (tel. 800/400-8222; www.taca.com) have flights connecting through Mexico City, Mexico, and San José, Costa Rica, respectively.
By Bus
Venezuela is serviced by international bus routes via Colombia to the west and Brazil to the south. In general, crossings from Colombia are considered dangerous, due to guerrilla and drug-cartel activity, and political tensions between the two countries. The only road route between Brazil and Venezuela connects Boa Vista, Brazil, and Santa Elena de Uairén, Venezuela. Bus Ven (tel. 0212/953-8441; www.busven.com) is a reputable bus line for travel to and from Colombia. To travel to Brazil, you will first have to make your way south via local bus lines to Santa Elena.
By Boat
Ferry services run between several Caribbean islands and Isla de Margarita, Venezuela. Routes and schedules vary seasonally and change on short notice. Islands with the most consistent connections include Barbados, St. Vincent, and Trinidad and Tobago.
Tips on Shopping
Outside of the massive malls in Caracas, which have all the standard international designer stores you could ask for, shopping is far from rewarding in Venezuela. Your best bet is to look for and stick to local and indigenous arts and crafts. Masks are particularly attractive and varied. Keep an eye out for the local hammocks, called chinchorros, which are an intricate weave of thin strands of rough natural fibers. You'll also find a variety of woven baskets, hats, and handbags, as well as simple ceramic wares. Despite its duty-free status, Isla de Margarita is unlikely to be of much interest for international shoppers. Prices and selection are comparable to what most folks can find at home.
Outside of department stores, hotel gift shops, and malls, you should bargain. In many cases, street merchants and sellers at outdoor markets and souvenir shops can easily be bartered down by 25% to 30%.
Fast Facts
American Express American Express is represented by the Italcambio (www.italcambio.com) chain of money-exchange houses and travel agencies with offices around Caracas and other parts of Venezuela. You'll find a convenient office in the Centro Comercial Lido shopping mall (tel. 0212/953-9901); it's open Monday through Friday from 8am to 5pm, and Saturday from 9am to noon. For Global Assist, call tel. 0212/206-0333. To report a lost card, call tel. 0212/206-2796, or call collect 336/393-1111 in the United States.
Business Hours Most businesses open between 8am and 9am, and close between 5 and 6pm. Many businesses and stores close down for an hour or more for a lunch break between noon and 2:30pm. On Saturday, most shops are open and most businesses are closed. On Sunday, only shops in malls and major shopping districts are open. Most banks are open Monday to Friday from 8:30am to 4pm; however, banks and exchange houses in some of the major malls are open during shopping hours, which often include the early evenings and weekends.
Doctors & Dentists Medical and dental care generally ranges from acceptable to high quality in Venezuela. If you need care while in the country, contact your embassy, ask at your hotel, or look in the English-language Daily Journal.
Drug Laws Venezuelan drug laws are strict, and punishment, especially for foreigners, is severe. Do not try to smuggle, buy, or use illegal drugs in Venezuela.
Electricity Electric current is 110 volts AC (60 cycles). U.S.-style flat-prong plugs are used. However, three-prong grounded outlets are not universally available. It's helpful to bring a three-to-two prong adapter.
Embassies & Consulates In Caracas: Canada, avenidas Francisco de Miranda and Sur, Altamira (tel. 0212/600-3000; www.canadainternational.gc.ca/venezuela); United Kingdom, Torre La Castellana, Avenida Principal La Castellana, Piso 11 (tel. 0212/263-8411; http://ukinvenezuela.fco.gov.uk/en); and the United States, calles F and Suapure, Colinas de Valle Arriba (tel. 0212/975-6411; http://caracas.usembassy.gov).
Australia and New Zealand do not have embassies in Venezuela. The Canadian and U.K. embassies will assist Australian and Kiwi travelers in most instances, except for the issuing of passports. The nearest Australian Embassy is in Brasilia, Brazil (tel. 55/61-3226-3111; www.dfat.gov.au/geo/venezuela/index.html); the nearest New Zealand embassy is also in Brasilia (tel. 55/61-3248-9900; www.nzembassy.com).
Emergencies Venezuela has an integrated emergency network (police, fire, ambulance). To reach it, dial tel. 171. You can dial 171 from any pay phone, without using a calling card. Don't expect the operator to speak English.
Internet Access There are Internet cafes all over Venezuela, particularly in tourist destinations. Rates run BsF1 to BsF10 per hour.
Language Spanish is the official language of Venezuela. Although most hotels and tourist destinations have staff and guides with at least some command of English, it is not widely spoken among the general population.
Liquor Laws The official drinking age in Venezuela is 18, although it is rarely enforced. At discos, however, you often need to show a picture ID for admittance.
Newspapers & Magazines There are around a dozen daily newspapers and tabloids. The main Spanish-language newspapers are El Nacional (http://el-nacional.com) and El Universal (www.el-universal.com).
Police Venezuela has a host of overlapping police departments but no specific tourist police. Depending on the circumstances, you may encounter metropolitan police (policía metropolitana), municipal police (policía municipal), investigative police (policía técnica judicial), the National Guard (guardia nacional), or transit police (policía de tránsito). Their uniforms and specific responsibilities vary. Corruption and indifference are widespread. Venezuela has an integrated emergency network (police, fire, ambulance). To reach it, just dial tel. 171. However, don't expect the operator to speak English.
Post Offices/Mail Ipostel (www.ipostel.gov.ve) is the national mail service. It is considered neither swift nor secure for international correspondence. Generally, a letter or postcard takes 10 to 20 days to reach most parts of the United States and Europe. There are branch post offices in most cities and tourist destinations, and some malls even have Ipostel offices. Still, your hotel is usually your best bet for buying stamps and mailing a letter. Feel free to mail home postcards and letters, but avoid using Ipostel for anything of value or importance.
In the event that you need to mail anything of value or personal import, call any of the following international courier services: DHL (tel. 0800/225-5345; www.dhl.com), FedEx (tel. 0800/463-3399; www.fedex.com), or UPS (tel. 0212/401-4900; www.ups.com).
Restrooms There are few readily available public toilets in Venezuela. Your best bet is a restaurant, hotel, or service station. Some of these establishments (particularly service stations and roadside restaurants) will actually charge you a small fee for the use of the facilities. It's always a good idea to carry a small amount of toilet paper with you, especially on the road, as the facilities at many service stations -- and at lower-end restaurants and hotels -- might not have any.
Safety Venezuela has a well-deserved reputation for its violence and crime. Caraqueños talk about muggings, car thefts, and burglaries with amazing candidness and regularity. The greatest danger to travelers is theft. If you use common sense and standard precautions, you should have no problems. Keep a tab on your belongings, use hotel safes whenever possible, and don't carry large sums of money with you or wear obviously expensive clothing or jewelry. Stick to the well-worn tourist parts of Caracas and other major cities. Avoid the ranchitos (shantytowns) and poorer barrios. Take reputable taxis whenever possible and definitely avoid strolling around cities at night. If you have a rental car, always leave it in guarded parking and never leave anything of value inside.
Smoking Venezuela has very lax anti-smoking laws. Basically, smoking is only prohibited in public hospitals and clinics, elevators, and public transportation. A large number of Venezuelans smoke, and smoke-filled public spaces are common. Bars, discos, and clubs are often especially smoke filled.
Taxes There is a 15% sales tax on all purchases, including both goods and services.
Telephone & Fax There are public phones all around most cities and major tourist destinations. You'll even find public phones in places as remote as Canaima and Los Roques. Most work with magnetic-strip calling cards that are readily available in stores all over the country. Look for signs or stickers advertising CANTV calling cards. A local call costs just a few pennies per minute. Calls to cellphones or between competing phone companies can be much more expensive. Your hotel is usually your best bet for sending and receiving faxes, although they may charge exorbitant rates for international faxes.
Time Zone Venezuela is 4 1/2 hours behind Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) and does not observe daylight saving time.
Tipping Most restaurants automatically add a 10% service charge. If you feel the service was particularly good, you should leave an additional 5% to 10%. If they don't add the service charge, tip as you would at home. Similarly, tip the hotel staff as you would at home. Since most taxi drivers do not use meters and are almost always overcharging foreigners, it is not customary to tip them. If you feel you are getting an extremely good deal or beyond-the-call-of-duty treatment, by all means, tip your driver.
Water Although the water is considered safe to drink in most urban areas, I recommend that visitors stick to bottled water to be on the safe side. Ask for agua mineral sin gas (noncarbonated mineral water).
Tips on Dining
Although both Caracas and Isla de Margarita have a wide range of restaurants serving a gamut of international cuisines, your choices will be much more limited throughout most of the rest of the country. Venezuelan cuisine is neither very distinctive nor noteworthy. Most meals consist of a meat or chicken dish (either fried, grilled, or in a stew), accompanied by some stewed vegetables, rice, and the ubiquitous arepa, the traditional cornmeal patty that's a kind of cross between a tortilla and a biscuit. Vegetarians may have a particularly hard time. If you are vegetarian, try to coordinate your meals in advance with hotels and tour agencies.
For those with a sweet tooth, be sure to try a piece of the national cake, bienmesabe, a soft sponge cake soaked in a sweet coconut-cream sauce. (Its name literally means "Tastes good to me!") Also be sure to sample some of the fresh fruit drinks, or batidos. These are made with whatever ripe tropical fruits are on hand. My favorite batido is made of mango, but parchita, or passion fruit, runs a close second.
I have separated restaurant listings into three price categories, based on the average cost of a meal per person, including tax and tip: Expensive, more than BsF150; Moderate, BsF60 to BsF150; and Inexpensive, less than BsF60. Note that prices given for entrees and main courses do not include sales or service taxes.