Roughly translated, the name means "a game on the palate," and the chefs here do play with your taste buds. The decor is understated—or perhaps you hardly notice the red walls and light wood paneling because the food envelops all your senses. Instead of a conventional menu the hosts Martina Kraler and Rodschel Rachnaev offer three composed menus, with temptations like a risotto with pomelo and octopus, or sea bass and scampi on a hot stone with oysters and clams. Dishes are seasonal, but always an explosion of flavor. The wine list includes a fine selection of older vintages that you can enjoy in the sheltered garden in summer or in front of the wood-burning fireplace in winter.