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As you step into this Jugendstil restaurant, you're transported back in time. Art Deco design, uniformed waiters, and a general feel of decadence create a nostalgic ambience that locals never cease to love. The place has in fact been in the same family since 1618, although its current decor dates from 1902. In the first room, a delicatessen against one wall sells wine and cured meat, although most of the action takes place among the chic clientele in the cafe. On Saturday mornings, it is packed with locals trying to recover from a late night, sipping medicinal champagne and selecting open-face sandwiches from the trays on the black countertops. Try the rosy hand-carved Beinschinken (boiled ham with freshly grated horseradish). Beyond the cafe is a perfectly preserved Art Deco dining room with jeweled copper chandeliers. The walls are a combination of polished panels and yellowed ceramic tiles, with a dusky plaster ceiling-frieze of grape leaves. The restaurant has just 11 tables, and it's the perfect place for a nostalgic meal. The top-notch cuisine features grilled sturgeon with its caviar on a bed of spinach and artichokes in argan oil, or veal filet and sweetbread with truffled peas, celery puree, and mushrooms.