Planning a trip to Washington State

Calendar of Events

For additional information on events in Washington state, check the "Events" section on the Washington State Tourism Office website at www.experiencewashington.com.

February

Northwest Flower & Garden Show (tel. 206/789-5333; www.gardenshow.com), Seattle. This massive 5-day show for avid gardeners has astonishing floral displays. Mid-February.

Red Wine and Chocolate (tel. 800/258-7270; www.wineyakimavalley.org), Yakima Valley. Sample Yakima Valley reds, accompanied by tastings of decadent chocolate desserts. Presidents' Day weekend.

April

Skagit Valley Tulip Festival (tel. 360/428-5959; www.tulipfestival.org), La Conner. An hour north of Seattle, acres and acres of tulips and daffodils cover the Skagit Valley with broad swaths of color each spring, creating an enchanting landscape. Lots of festivities. All month.

Spring Barrel Tasting (tel. 800/258-7270; www.wineyakimavalley.org), Yakima Valley. Straight-from-the-barrel wine tasting and spring-release wines at Yakima Valley wineries. Last full weekend in April.

Washington State Apple Blossom Festival (tel. 509/662-3616; www.appleblossom.org), Wenatchee. Many different events, including a parade and activities for families. End of April to early May.

May

Opening Day of Boating Season (tel. 206/325-1000; www.seattleyachtclub.org), Lake Union and Lake Washington. A parade of boats and much fanfare take place as Seattle boaters bring out everything from kayaks to yachts. First Saturday in May.

Irrigation Festival (tel. 360/683-6197; www.irrigationfestival.com), Sequim. More than 110 years old, this is the oldest continuously held festival in Washington, and it has a grand parade, dancing, and arts and crafts. Early May.

Seattle Maritime Festival (tel. 206/728-3163; www.portseattle.org). Tugboat races are the highlight of this annual Port of Seattle event. Festivities are centered on the Bell Street Pier (Pier 66) on the Seattle waterfront. Early May.

Viking Fest (tel. 360/779-FEST; www.vikingfest.org), Poulsbo. Norwegian heritage on display in picturesque Poulsbo, with a parade and entertainment. Mid-May.

Spokane Lilac Festival (tel. 509/535-4554; www.lilacfestival.org), Spokane. For 70 years, this event has celebrated the blooming of the lilacs. Don't miss the lilac gardens at Manito Park. Mid-May.

Seattle International Film Festival (tel. 206/324-9996; www.seattlefilm.com), at theaters around town. New foreign and independent films are screened over several weeks during this highly regarded film festival. Late May to mid-June.

Northwest Folklife Festival (tel. 206/684-7300; www.nwfolklife.org), Seattle Center. This is one of the largest folklife festivals in the country, with dozens of national and regional folk musicians performing on numerous stages. In addition, you'll find crafts vendors from all over the Northwest, lots of good food, and dancing. Memorial Day weekend.

June

Mural-in-a-Day (tel. 800/863-6375 or 509/865-3262), Toppenish. The small town of Toppenish has covered its blank walls with murals, and each June, one more is added in a day of intense painting. Early June.

July

Fourth of Jul-Ivar's (tel. 206/587-6500; www.ivars.net), Myrtle Edwards Park, north end of Seattle waterfront. Fireworks over Elliott Bay. July 4th.

Washington Mutual Family Fourth at Lake Union (tel. 206/281-7788; www.familyfourth.org). Seattle's other main Fourth of July fireworks display. July 4th.

Lake Union Wooden Boat Festival and Classic Speedboat Show (tel. 206/382-2628; www.cwb.org), Center for Wooden Boats. Featured are classic speedboats and wooden boats, both old and new, from all over the Northwest. Races, demonstrations, food, and entertainment. July 4th weekend.

Seafair (tel. 206/728-0123; www.seafair.com). This is the biggest Seattle event of the year, with daily festivities -- parades, hydroplane boat races, an air show with the Navy's Blue Angels, the Torchlight Parade, ethnic festivals, sporting events, and open house on naval ships. Events take place all over Seattle. Early July to early August.

Sequim Lavender Festival (tel. 877/681-3035 or 360/681-3035; www.lavenderfestival.com). The town of Sequim, on the north side of the Olympic Peninsula, is a 30-minute ferry ride and an hour's drive from Seattle. Each summer the purple haze of lavender farms adds splashes of color to the landscape. This festival features farm visits and vendors selling lavender-themed art, crafts, cosmetics, and foods. Third weekend in July.

Pilchuck Glass School Open House (tel. 206/621-8422; www.pilchuck.com), Stanwood. If you're a fan of glass artist Dale Chihuly, you won't want to miss an opportunity to visit the school that helped him make a name for himself. The open house is immensely popular, so buy tickets early. Mid-July.

Walla Walla Sweet Onion Festival (tel. 509/525-1031; www.sweetonions.org), Walla Walla. Onion-themed entertainment and food booths feature the delicious local onion. Late July.

Bellevue Arts Museum ArtsFair (tel. 415/519-0770; www.bellevuearts.org), Bellevue Square, Bellevue. This is the largest arts-and-fine-crafts fair in the Northwest. Last weekend in July.

August

Chief Seattle Days (tel. 360/598-3311), at Suquamish tribal headquarters. A celebration of Northwest Native American culture across Puget Sound from Seattle. Third weekend in August.

Washington State International Kite Festival (tel. 800/451-2542; www.kitefestival.com), Long Beach. World-class kite-flying competition. Third week in August.

Makah Days (tel. 360/645-2201; www.makah.com), Neah Bay. Canoe races, Native American arts, and salmon bake presented by the Makah tribe in the northwest corner of the Olympic Peninsula. End of August.

September

Bumbershoot, the Seattle Music & Arts Festival (tel. 206/281-7788; www.bumbershoot.org). Seattle's second-most-popular festival derives its peculiar name from a British term for an umbrella -- an obvious reference to the rainy weather. Rock music and other events pack Seattle's youthful set into Seattle Center and other venues. You'll find plenty of arts and crafts on display, too. Labor Day weekend.

Ellensburg Rodeo (tel. 800/637-2444 or 509/962-7831; www.ellensburgrodeo.com), Ellensburg. The state's biggest rodeo, with a carnival and both country music and rock bands. Labor Day weekend.

Wooden Boat Festival (tel. 360/385-3628; www.woodenboat.org), Port Townsend. Historic and modern wooden boats on display, with demonstrations. Early September.

October

Issaquah Salmon Days Festival (tel. 425/392-0661; www.salmondays.org). This festival in Issaquah, 15 miles east of Seattle, celebrates the annual return of salmon that spawn within the city limits. First full weekend in October.

Kinetic Sculpture Race (tel. 888/365-6978; www.ptkineticrace.org), Port Townsend. The two rules of this race are (1) the vehicle must be people-powered, and (2) the wackier the contraption, the better. First Sunday in October.

Oktoberfest (tel. 509/548-7021; www.leavenworthoktoberfest.com), Leavenworth. A traditional Oktoberfest in this Bavarian town comes complete with kegs of beer shipped in from Munich and traditional German dancing. First, second, and third weekend in October.

Cranberrian Fair (tel. 800/451-2542 or 360/642-3446; www.funbeach.com), Ilwaco, Long Beach Peninsula. Cranberry bog tours, cranberry products, arts and crafts. Mid-October.

November

Thanksgiving in the Wine Country (tel. 800/258-7270; www.wineyakimavalley.org), Yakima Valley. Foods and the wines that complement them are offered for tasting by Yakima area wineries. Thanksgiving weekend.

Zoolights (tel. 253/591-5337; www.pdza.org), Tacoma. The Point Defiance Zoo is decorated with more than half a million sparkling lights, creating colorful fantasy scenes. Day after Thanksgiving to January 1.

Christmas Lighting (tel. 509/548-5807; www.leavenworth.org), Leavenworth. This Bavarian village was practically made for Christmas, and looks most photogenic when surrounded by snow and decorated with twinkling lights. Sleigh rides, roasted chestnuts, and all the traditional Bavarian trimmings. Day after Thanksgiving through the first three weekends of December.

December

Argosy Cruises Christmas Ships Festival (tel. 800/642-7816 or 206/623-1445; www.argosycruises.com), various locations. Boats decked out with imaginative Christmas lights parade past various waterfront locations. Argosy Cruises offers tours. Throughout December.

New Year's at the Needle (tel. 800/937-9582 or 206/905-2100; www.spaceneedle.com), Seattle. The Space Needle ushers in the new year with a big fireworks show when midnight strikes. December 31.

Regions in Brief

The state of Washington covers 68,139 square miles -- roughly the same area as all of New England. Within this large area can be found surprising geographical diversity, including an inland sea dotted with hundreds of islands, temperate rainforests where rainfall is measured in feet, an arid land of sagebrush and junipers, several distinct mountain ranges, an active volcano, the West's most important river, and, of course, hundreds of thousands of acres of coniferous forests (hence the state's nickname -- the Evergreen State).

Puget Sound -- Puget Sound, a convoluted maze of waterways, is a vast inland sea that stretches for more than 80 miles, from north of Seattle south to Olympia. Created when glaciers receded at the end of the last ice age, Puget Sound is characterized by deep waterways surrounded by hilly, forested terrain. Because the sound's protected waters make such good harbors and are so full of fish and shellfish, this area has been the most densely populated region of the state since long before the first Europeans sailed into these waters. Today, the eastern shore of the sound has become the largest metropolitan area in the state -- one huge Pugetopolis that includes Seattle, Tacoma, Olympia, and dozens of smaller cities and bedroom communities. The western and southernmost reaches of the sound are much less developed.

The San Juan Islands -- Lying just to the north of Puget Sound, the San Juan Islands are a lush, mountainous archipelago, home to orca whales, harbor seals, and bald eagles. Of the 175 or so named San Juan Islands, only four are accessible by public ferry, and, of these, only three -- San Juan, Orcas, and Lopez -- have accommodations (although the fourth, Shaw, has a campground). The mild climate, watery vistas, and quiet, rural character of these islands have made the San Juans the state's favorite summer vacation destination. As such, the islands are packed to overflowing throughout the summer and it can be impossible to get a hotel reservation at the last minute. A summer trip to the San Juans definitely requires plenty of advance planning. It also requires a great deal of patience, as waits for ferries can stretch into hours. To avoid the crowds, visit in spring or fall, when the weather is often just as good as in the summer. Because the San Juans lie within the rain shadow of the Olympic Mountains, they get far less rain than Seattle.

The Olympic Peninsula -- Aside from a thin necklace of private land around its perimeter, this huge peninsula, wedged between Puget Sound and the Pacific Ocean, is almost entirely public land. At the heart of the peninsula is Olympic National Park, which encompasses almost the entirety of the Olympic Mountains. Surrounding the park is Olympic National Forest, which is distinguishable from the park by its many clear-cut areas. Due primarily to the immensity of the forests and the size of the trees here, the forests of the Olympic Peninsula have, over the past century, seen some of the most intensive logging in the nation. The gigantic size of the trees is due to the astounding amount of rain that falls on parts of the peninsula. The western slopes of the Olympic Mountains contain some of the only temperate rainforests in the contiguous United States, and in these forests, the annual rainfall often exceeds 150 inches. Rugged, remote beaches separated by rocky headlands characterize the Pacific shore of the peninsula, while along the north coast, there are a number of large towns, including the historic Victorian seaport of Port Townsend.

Southwest Washington -- The southwest corner of the state is, for the most part, a sparsely populated region of huge tree farms. However, along the southern coast, there are long sandy beaches and numerous beach resorts and towns, which, though popular with Portlanders and the residents of Puget Sound, lack a distinctly Northwest character. Inland, up the Columbia River, lies the city of Vancouver (not to be confused with Vancouver, British Columbia), which is rich in regional history, but overshadowed by Portland, Oregon, across the Columbia River.

The Cascade Range -- Dividing the state into eastern and western regions, the Washington Cascades are actually two very distinct mountain ranges. The North Cascades are jagged, glaciated granite peaks, while the central and southern Washington Cascades are primarily volcanic in origin. Mount St. Helens, which erupted with awe-inspiring force in 1980, is the only one of these volcanoes to be active in recent years, but even Mount Rainier, the highest mountain in the state, is merely dormant and is expected to erupt again sometime in the next few hundred years (probably with devastating effect, considering the large population that now resides at the foot of the mountain). Within these two mountain ranges are North Cascades National Park, Mount Rainier National Park, Mount St. Helens National Volcanic Monument, the third deepest lake in the country (Lake Chelan), a half-dozen ski areas, and a couple of interesting little theme towns. If you're thinking about a summer vacation in these mountains, keep in mind that the snow at higher elevations often doesn't melt until well into July.

Eastern Washington -- While to the west of the Cascade Range, all is gray skies and green forests, to the east the sun shines 300 days a year and fewer than 10 inches of rain fall in an average year. However, irrigation waters from the Columbia River have allowed the region to become an agricultural powerhouse. This sun-drenched and sparsely populated shrub steppe is highly valued by waterlogged residents of western Washington, but it is, with the exception of its wine country, of little interest to out-of-state visitors. Wine lovers should know, however, that from the Yakima Valley to the Walla Walla area, large areas of vineyards have helped make Washington the second-largest producer of wine in the country. Also, in the Yakima, Wenatchee, and Chelan valleys, apple orchards produce the bulk of the nation's apple crop. Out in the southeast corner of the state lie the rolling Palouse Hills, where rich soils sustain the most productive wheat fields in the nation. Spokane is the region's largest metropolitan area.

Fast Facts

American Express -- The main Amex office is in Seattle in the Plaza 600 building at 600 Stewart St. (tel. 206/441-8622). It's open Monday through Friday from 8:30am to 5:30pm. For card-member services, phone tel. 800/528-4800. Call tel. 800/AXP-TRIP or go to www.americanexpress.com for other locations or general information.

Area Code -- The area code is 206 in Seattle, 425 for the Eastside (including Kirkland and Bellevue), and 253 for south King County (near the airport). The area code east of the Cascade Range is 509.

ATMs -- The easiest and best way to get cash in the United States is from an ATM (automated teller machine). The Cirrus (www.mastercard.com; 📞 800/424-7787) and PLUS (www.visa.com) networks span the country; you can find them everywhere in Seattle, Portland, and along the coast. You’ll find ATMs at banks, gas stations, supermarkets, and convenience stores.

Automobile Organizations -- Auto clubs will supply maps, suggested routes, guidebooks, accident and bail-bond insurance, and emergency road service. The American Automobile Association (AAA) is the major auto club in the United States. If you belong to an auto club in your home country, inquire about AAA reciprocity before you leave. You may be able to join AAA even if you're not a member of a reciprocal club; to inquire, call AAA (tel. 800/222-4357). AAA is actually an organization of regional auto clubs, so look under "AAA Automobile Club" in the White Pages of the telephone directory. AAA has a nationwide emergency road service telephone number (tel. 800/AAA-HELP). The local Seattle office of AAA (tel. 206/633-4222; www.aaa.com) is in the University District at 4554 Ninth Ave. NE.

Currency -- The most common bills are the $1 (a "buck"), $5, $10, and $20 denominations. There are also $2 bills (seldom encountered), $50 bills, and $100 bills (the last two are usually not welcome as payment for small purchases).

Coins come in seven denominations: 1¢ (1 cent, or a penny); 5¢ (5 cents, or a nickel); 10¢ (10 cents, or a dime); 25¢ (25 cents, or a quarter); 50¢ (50 cents, or a half dollar); the gold-colored Sacagawea coin, worth $1; and the rare silver dollar.

Customs -- Every visitor 21 years of age or older may bring in, free of duty, the following: (1) 1 liter of alcohol; (2) 200 cigarettes, 100 cigars (but not from Cuba); and (3) $100 worth of gifts. These exemptions are offered to travelers who spend at least 72 hours in the United States and who have not claimed them within the preceding 6 months. It is forbidden to bring into the country almost any meat products (including canned, fresh, and dried meat products, such as bouillon and soup mixes). Generally, condiments including vinegars, oils, pickled goods, spices, coffee, tea, and some cheeses and baked goods are permitted. Avoid rice products, as rice can often harbor insects. Bringing fruits and vegetables is prohibited because they may harbor pests or disease. International visitors may carry in or out up to $10,000 in U.S. or foreign currency with no formalities; larger sums must be declared to U.S. Customs on entering or leaving, which includes filing form FinCEN 105. For details regarding U.S. Customs and Border Protection, consult your nearest U.S. embassy or consulate, or U.S. Customs and Border Protection (www.cbp.gov).

Drinking Laws -- The legal age for purchase and consumption of alcoholic beverages is 21; proof of age is required and often requested at bars, nightclubs, and restaurants, so it’s always a good idea to bring ID when you go out. Do not carry open containers of alcohol in your car or in any public area that isn’t zoned for alcohol consumption. The police can fine you on the spot. Don’t even think about driving while intoxicated. Aside from on-premises sales of cocktails in bars and restaurants, hard liquor can be purchased only in liquor stores. Beer and wine are available in convenience stores and grocery stores. Brewpubs tend to sell only beer and wine, but some also have licenses to sell hard liquor.

Drugstores/Pharmacies -- Fred Meyer, a major grocery chain in Washington and Oregon, has a pharmacy in many of its stores. Also look for Walgreens (Washington and Oregon) and Bartell (Washington only). Many prescription drugs have different names outside the U.S., so it’s important to know what the drug’s name is in the U.S.

Doctors -- To find a doctor, check with the front desk or concierge at your hotel.

Embassies & Consulates -- All embassies are located in the nation's capital, Washington, D.C. Some consulates are located in major U.S. cities, and most nations have a mission to the United Nations in New York City. If your country isn't listed below, call for directory information in Washington, D.C. (tel. 202/555-1212) or log on to www.embassy.org/embassies.

The embassy of Australia is at 1601 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20036 (tel. 202/797-3000; www.austemb.org). There are consulates in New York, Honolulu, Houston, Los Angeles, and San Francisco.

The embassy of Canada is at 501 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20001 (tel. 202/682-1740; www.canadianembassy.org). Other Canadian consulates are in Buffalo, Detroit, Los Angeles, New York, and Seattle.

The embassy of Ireland is at 2234 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20008 (tel. 202/462-3939; https://www.dfa.ie/irish-embassy/usa/). Irish consulates are in Boston, Chicago, New York, and San Francisco.

The embassy of New Zealand is at 37 Observatory Circle NW, Washington, DC 20008 (tel. 202/328-4800; www.mfat.govt.nz/en/countries-and-regions/north-america/united-states-of-america/new-zealand-embassy-washington/). New Zealand consulates are in Los Angeles, Salt Lake City, San Francisco, and Seattle.

The embassy of the United Kingdom is at 3100 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20008 (tel. 202/588-7800; www.britainusa.com). Consulates are in nine cities, including Boston, Chicago, New York, and Seattle.

Emergencies -- Call tel. 911 for fire, police, and ambulance. This is a toll-free call.

Gasoline (Petrol) - At press time, in the Seattle area, the cost of gasoline (also known as gas, but never petrol), was hovering around $3 per gallon. Taxes are already included in the printed price. One U.S. gallon equals 3.8 liters or .85 imperial gallons. Fill-up locations are known as gas or service stations.

Holidays -- Banks, government offices, post offices, and many stores, restaurants, and museums are closed on the following legal national holidays: January 1 (New Year's Day), the third Monday in January (Martin Luther King, Jr., Day), the third Monday in February (Presidents' Day), the last Monday in May (Memorial Day), July 4 (Independence Day), the first Monday in September (Labor Day), the second Monday in October (Columbus Day), November 11 (Veterans' Day/Armistice Day), the fourth Thursday in November (Thanksgiving Day), and December 25 (Christmas). The Tuesday after the first Monday in November is Election Day, a federal government holiday in presidential-election years (2008 is an election year).

Insurance — The websites InsureMyTrip.com and SquareMouth.com serve as good marketplaces for insurance policies, all from reputable companies. In general, you don’t need insurance just for a hotel stay or airplane flight. But if you’re renting a house, or feel you may need medical insurance, getting travel insurance can be a smart purchase.

Internet & Wi-Fi -- The Pacific Northwest is very wired. Nearly all hotels and B&Bs in Seattle, Portland, and along the Oregon coast offer free Wi-Fi to guests. Other places to get access to the Internet are cafes and public libraries. Do not expect Wi-Fi or Internet access at campgrounds or in state parks.

Lost & Found -- Be sure to tell all of your credit card companies the minute you discover your wallet has been lost or stolen and file a report at the nearest police precinct. Your credit card company or insurer may require a police report number or record of the loss. Most credit card companies have an emergency toll-free number to call if your card is lost or stolen; they may be able to wire you a cash advance immediately or deliver an emergency credit card in a day or two. Visa's U.S. emergency number is tel. 800/847-2911 or 410/581-9994. American Express cardholders and traveler's check holders should call tel. 800/221-7282. MasterCard holders should call tel. 800/307-7309 or 636/722-7111. For other credit cards, call the toll-free number directory at tel. 800/555-1212.

If you need emergency cash over the weekend when all banks and American Express offices are closed, you can have money wired to you via Western Union (tel. 800/325-6000; www.westernunion.com).

Mail -- At press time, domestic postage rates were 26¢ for a postcard and 41¢ for a letter. For international mail, a first-class letter of up to 1 ounce costs 90¢ (69¢ to Canada and Mexico); a first-class postcard costs 90¢ (69¢ to Canada and Mexico). For more information go to www.usps.com.

If you aren't sure what your address will be in the United States, mail can be sent to you, in your name, c/o General Delivery at the main post office of the city or region where you expect to be. (Call tel. 800/275-8777 for information on the nearest post office.) The addressee must pick up mail in person and must produce proof of identity (driver's license, passport, and so on). Most post offices will hold your mail for up to 1 month, and are open Monday to Friday from 8am to 6pm, and Saturday from 9am to 3pm.

Always include zip codes when mailing items in the U.S. If you don't know your zip code, visit www.usps.com/zip4.

Mobile Phones -- If you have a U.S. mobile phone and network, it’s a good bet that your phone will work in in Seattle, Portland, and along the Oregon coast, but T-Mobile, Sprint, and Nextel are weak in rural areas and in some places along the coast. If you’re visiting from another country, be sure to find out about international calling rates and roaming charges before using your phone in the United States. You could ring up a huge phone bill with just a few calls and texts. Foreign visitors might consider using Skype in lieu of cellphone service (it can be used when you have access to Wi-Fi, which you will at all hotels).

Newspapers & Magazines -- The Seattle Post-Intelligencer and Seattle Times are Seattle's two daily newspapers. Seattle Weekly (www.seattleweekly.comi) is the city’s free news, arts, and entertainment weekly

Passports -- Every air traveler entering the U.S. is required to show a passport. For more information on passports, see the following:

• For Residents of Australia: You can pick up an application from your local post office or any branch of Passports Australia, but you must schedule an interview at the passport office to present your application materials. Call the Australian Passport Information Service at tel. 131-232, or visit the government website at www.passports.gov.au.
• For Residents of Canada: Passport applications are available at travel agencies throughout Canada or from the central Passport Office, Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, ON K1A 0G3 (tel. 800/567-6868; www.ppt.gc.ca). Note: Canadian children who travel must have their own passport. However, if you hold a valid Canadian passport issued before December 11, 2001, that bears the name of your child, the passport remains valid for you and your child until it expires.
• For Residents of Ireland: You can apply for a 10-year passport at the Passport Office, Setanta Centre, Molesworth Street, Dublin 2 (tel. 01/671-1633; www.irlgov.ie/iveagh). Those under age 18 and over 65 must apply for a 3-year passport. You can also apply at 1A South Mall, Cork (tel. 021/272-525) or at most main post offices.
• For Residents of New Zealand: You can pick up a passport application at any New Zealand Passports Office or download it from their website. Contact the Passports Office at tel. 0800/225-050 in New Zealand or 04/474-8100, or log on to www.passports.govt.nz.
• For Residents of the United Kingdom: To pick up an application for a standard 10-year passport (5-yr. passport for children under 16), visit your nearest passport office, major post office, or travel agency or contact the United Kingdom Passport Service at tel. 0870/521-0410 or search its website at www.ukpa.gov.uk.

Packing — The Pacific Northwest is a very casual place. Seattle has more “dress up” restaurants than Portland does, and the Oregon coast is about staying dry and comfortable in cool, wet weather. The weather can be warm in the summer, but typically cools down considerably at night. In the winter, there is frequent rain, and temperatures tend to hover in the 40s and 50s. When you’re packing, think layers. To keep yourself covered, bring a fleece jacket, a hoodie, and a rain jacket.

Police -- To reach the police, dial tel. 911.

Smoking -- Smoking is banned in public indoor spaces throughout the state of Washington, so don't try lighting up -- even in a bar.

Taxes -- The state of Washington makes up for its lack of an income tax with its heavy sales tax, and counties add on their own as well. The state sales tax is currently 6.5%, but because of complex tax laws, it may be as high as 9.5% in some municipalities. Hotel-room tax in the Seattle metro area ranges from around 10% to 16%. On rental cars, you'll pay not only an 18.6% car-rental tax, but also, if you rent at the airport, an additional 10% to 12% airport concession fee (plus other fees for a whopping total of around 45%)!

Telegraph, Telex & Fax -- Telegraph and telex services are provided primarily by Western Union. You can telegraph money, or have it telegraphed to you, very quickly over the Western Union system, but this service can cost as much as 15% to 20% of the amount sent.

Most hotels have fax machines available for guest use (be sure to ask about the charge to use them). Many hotel rooms are even wired for guests' fax machines. A less expensive way to send and receive faxes may be at stores such as The UPS Store (formerly Mail Boxes Etc.).

Telephones -- Local calls require 10 digits (so include the area code). To make calls within the United States and to Canada, dial the area code and the seven-digit number. For international calls, dial 011 followed by the country code, city code, and the number you are calling.

For directory assistance (“Information”), dial 📞 1-800-FREE-411 for local numbers and national numbers in the U.S. and Canada. For long-distance information, dial 1, then the appropriate area code plus 555-1212.

Time -- The continental United States is divided into four time zones: Eastern Standard Time (EST), Central Standard Time (CST), Mountain Standard Time (MST), and Pacific Standard Time (PST). Alaska and Hawaii have their own zones. For example, when it's 9am in Los Angeles (PST), it's 7am in Honolulu (HST),10am in Denver (MST), 11am in Chicago (CST), noon in New York City (EST), 5pm in London (GMT), and 2am the next day in Sydney. Seattle is on Pacific Standard Time (PST), making it 3 hours behind the East Coast.

Daylight saving time, which moves the clock 1 hour ahead of standard time, is in effect from 1am on the second Sunday in March to 1am on the first Sunday in November, except in Arizona, Hawaii, the U.S. Virgin Islands, and Puerto Rico.

Tipping -- Tips are a very important part of certain workers' income, and gratuities are the standard way of showing appreciation for services provided. (Tipping is certainly not compulsory if the service is poor!) In hotels, tip bellhops at least $1 per bag ($2-$3 if you have a lot of luggage) and tip the chamber staff $1 to $2 per day (more if you've left a disaster area for him or her to clean up). Tip the doorman or concierge only if he or she has provided you with some specific service (for example, calling a cab for you or obtaining difficult-to-get theater tickets). Tip the valet-parking attendant $1 every time you get your car.

In restaurants, bars, and nightclubs, tip service staff 15% to 20% of the check (a few restaurants now add an additional 20% service charge to your bill—this takes care of the tipping), tip bartenders 10% to 15%, tip checkroom attendants $1 per garment, and tip valet-parking attendants $2 per vehicle.

As for other service personnel, tip cab drivers 15% of the fare; tip skycaps at airports at least $1 per bag ($2-$3 if you have a lot of luggage); and tip hairdressers and barbers 15% to 20%.

Toilets -- You won't find public toilets or "restrooms" on the streets in most U.S. cities, but they can be found in hotel lobbies, bars, restaurants, museums, department stores, railway and bus stations, and service stations. Large hotels and fast-food restaurants are often the best bet for clean facilities. If possible, avoid the toilets at parks and beaches, which tend to be dirty; some may be unsafe. Restaurants and bars in resorts or heavily visited areas may reserve their restrooms for patrons.

Visas -- Citizens from some countries must have (1) a valid passport that expires at least 6 months later than the scheduled end of their visit to the U.S.; and (2) a tourist visa. For information about U.S. Visas go to http://travel.state.gov and click on “Visas.” Or go to one of the following websites:

• Australian citizens can obtain up-to-date visa information from the U.S. Embassy Canberra, Moonah Place, Yarralumla, ACT 2600 (tel. 02/6214-5600) or by checking the U.S. Diplomatic Mission's website at http://usembassy-australia.state.gov/consular.
• British subjects can obtain up-to-date visa information by calling the U.S. Embassy Visa Information Line (tel. 0891/200-290) or by visiting the "Visas to the U.S." section of the American Embassy London's website at www.usembassy.org.uk.
• Irish citizens can obtain up-to-date visa information through the Embassy of the USA Dublin, 42 Elgin Rd., Dublin 4, Ireland (tel. 353/1-668-8777); or by checking the "Consular Services" section of the website at http://dublin.usembassy.gov.
• Citizens of New Zealand can obtain up-to-date visa information by contacting the U.S. Embassy New Zealand, 29 Fitzherbert Terrace, Thorndon, Wellington (tel. 644/472-2068), or get the information directly from the website at http://wellington.usembassy.gov.

Getting Around

By Car

A car is by far the best way to see the state of Washington. There is no other way to get to the more remote natural spectacles or to fully appreciate such regions as the Olympic Peninsula.

Gasoline -- Washington is a big state, so keep your gas tank as full as possible when traveling in the mountains or on the sparsely populated east side of the Cascades.

Maps -- Maps are available at most highway tourist information centers, at the tourist information offices listed earlier in this chapter, and at gas stations throughout the region. For a free map of Washington, call the Washington State Tourism Office (tel. 800/544-1800).

Driving Rules -- A right turn on red is permitted after first coming to a complete stop. You may also turn left on a red light if you're in the far left lane of a one-way street and are turning into another one-way street. Seat belts are required, as are car seats for children.

Breakdowns/Assistance -- In the event of a breakdown, stay with your car, lift the hood, turn on your emergency flashers, and wait for a police patrol car.

By Plane

Washington is a large state, and if you're trying to see every corner of it in a short time, you may want to consider flying. In addition to Sea-Tac, there are airports with regularly scheduled commercial flights in Bellingham, Whidbey Island, Port Angeles, Wenatchee, Yakima, Walla Walla, and Spokane. Fares vary, but at press time, a one-way flight between Bellingham and Spokane (with a stop in Seattle) on Alaska Airlines started at $99, and went as high as $203. Alaska Airlines/Horizon Air (tel. 800/252-7522; www.alaskaair.com) services many of the airports in the state and offers the most short-hop flights.

Kenmore Air (tel. 866/435-9524 or 425/486-1257; www.kenmoreair.com) offers seaplane service between Seattle and the San Juan Islands and Victoria, British Columbia. Its Seattle terminals are at the south end of Lake Union and at the north end of Lake Washington. San Juan Airlines (tel. 800/874-4434; www.sanjuanairlines.com) flies to the San Juans from Bellingham and Anacortes.

By Train

There is Amtrak service from Seattle to Spokane and points east, and service between Vancouver, British Columbia, Seattle, Portland, and points south, but otherwise, the train isn't a viable way of getting around Washington state. If you do decide to take the train, booking early will save you money.

By Ferry

Washington State Ferries (tel. 800/843-3779 or 888/808-7977 within Washington, or 206/464-6400; www.wsdot.wa.gov/ferries) is the most extensive ferry system in the United States.

Several smaller ferries operate between Port Angeles and Victoria, British Columbia, including Black Ball Transport (tel. 360/457-4491, or 250/386-2202 in Victoria; www.cohoferry.com) and Victoria Express (tel. 360/452-8088 or 250/361-9144; www.victoriaexpress.com). Victoria Clipper (tel. 800/888-2535, 206/448-5000, or 250/382-8100; www.victoriaclipper.com) has passenger-ferry service between Seattle and Victoria, British Columbia, and between Seattle and the San Juans (summer only).

Tips for Senior Travelers

Don't be shy about asking for discounts, but always carry identification, such as a driver's license, that shows your date of birth -- especially if you've kept your youthful glow. In Seattle, tour companies, the Washington State Ferries, most attractions, and some theaters and concert halls offer senior discounts. These can add up to substantial savings, but you have to remember to ask.

Members of AARP, 601 E St. NW, Washington, DC 20049 (tel. 888/687-2277; www.aarp.org), get discounts on hotels, airfares, and car rentals. AARP offers members a wide range of benefits, including AARP: The Magazine and a monthly newsletter. Anyone over 50 can join.

The U.S. National Park Service offers an America the Beautiful -- National Park and Federal Recreational Lands Pass -- Senior Pass (formerly the Golden Age Passport), which gives seniors 62 years or older lifetime entrance to all properties administered by the National Park Service -- national parks, monuments, historic sites, recreation areas, and national wildlife refuges -- for a one-time processing fee of $10. The pass must be purchased in person at any NPS facility that charges an entrance fee. Besides free entry, the America the Beautiful Senior Pass also offers a 50% discount on some federal-use fees charged for such facilities as camping, swimming, parking, boat launching, and tours. For more information, go to www.nps.gov/fees_passes.htm or call tel. 888/467-2757.

Many reliable agencies and organizations target the 50-plus market. Elderhostel (tel. 800/454-5768; www.elderhostel.org) arranges worldwide study programs for those aged 55 and over. ElderTreks (tel. 800/741-7956 or 416/558-5000 outside North America; www.eldertreks.com) offers small-group tours to off-the-beaten-path or adventure-travel locations, restricted to travelers 50 and older.

Recommended publications offering travel resources and discounts for seniors include the quarterly magazine Travel 50 & Beyond (www.travel50andbeyond.com) and the bestselling paperback Unbelievably Good Deals and Great Adventures That You Absolutely Can't Get Unless You're Over 50 2005-2006, 16th Edition (McGraw-Hill), by Joan Rattner Heilman.

Health & Insurance

Travel Insurance

The cost of travel insurance varies widely, depending on the cost and length of your trip, your age and health, and the type of trip you're taking, but expect to pay between 5% and 8% of the vacation itself. You can get estimates from various providers through InsureMyTrip.com. Enter your trip cost and dates, your age, and other information for prices from more than a dozen companies.

For U.K. citizens, insurance is always advisable when traveling in the States. Travelers who make more than one trip abroad per year may find an annual travel insurance policy works out to be cheaper. Check www.moneysupermarket.com, which compares prices across a wide range of providers for single- and multi-trip policies.

Most big travel agents offer their own insurance and may try to sell you their package when you book a holiday. Think before you sign. Britain's Consumers' Association recommends that you insist on seeing the policy and reading the fine print before buying travel insurance. The Association of British Insurers (tel. 020/7600-3333; www.abi.org.uk) gives advice by phone and publishes Holiday Insurance, a free guide to policy provisions and prices. You might also shop around for better deals: Try Columbus Direct (tel. 0870/033-9988; www.columbusdirect.net).

Trip-Cancellation Insurance -- Trip-cancellation insurance will help retrieve your money if you have to cancel a trip or depart early, or if your travel supplier goes bankrupt. Trip cancellation traditionally covers such events as sickness, natural disasters, and State Department advisories. The latest in trip-cancellation insurance is expanded hurricane coverage and "any-reason" cancellation coverage; they cost more but cover cancellations made for any reason. You won't get back 100% of your prepaid trip cost, but you'll be refunded a substantial portion. TravelSafe (tel. 888/885-7233; www.travelsafe.com) offers both types of coverage. Expedia also offers any-reason cancellation coverage for its air-hotel packages.

For details, contact one of the following recommended insurers: Access America (tel. 866/807-3982; www.accessamerica.com); Travel Guard International (tel. 800/826-4919; www.travelguard.com); Travel Insured International (tel. 800/243-3174; www.travelinsured.com); and Travelex Insurance Services (tel. 888/457-4602; www.travelex-insurance.com).

Medical Insurance -- Although it's not required of travelers, health insurance is highly recommended. Most health insurance policies cover you if you get sick away from home -- but check your coverage before you leave.

International visitors should note that unlike many European countries, the United States does not usually offer free or low-cost medical care to its citizens or visitors. Doctors and hospitals are expensive, and in most cases will require advance payment or proof of coverage before they render their services. Good policies will cover the costs of an accident, repatriation, or death. Packages such as Europ Assistance's "Worldwide Healthcare Plan" are sold by European automobile clubs and travel agencies at attractive rates. Worldwide Assistance Services, Inc. (tel. 800/777-8710; www.worldwideassistance.com) is the agent for Europ Assistance in the United States.

Though lack of health insurance may prevent you from being admitted to a hospital in nonemergencies, don't worry about being left on a street corner to die: The American way is to fix you now and bill the living daylights out of you later.

If you're ever hospitalized more than 150 miles from home, MedjetAssist (tel. 800/527-7478; www.medjetassistance.com) will pick you up and fly you to the hospital of your choice in a medically equipped and staffed aircraft 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. Annual memberships are $225 individual, $350 family; you can also purchase short-term memberships.

Canadians should check with their provincial health plan offices or call Health Canada (tel. 866/225-0709; www.hc-sc.gc.ca) to find out the extent of their coverage and what documentation and receipts they must take home in case they are treated in the United States.

Lost-Luggage Insurance -- On flights within the U.S., checked baggage is covered up to $2,500 per ticketed passenger. On flights outside the U.S. (and on U.S. portions of international trips), baggage coverage is limited to approximately $9.07 per pound, up to approximately $635 per checked bag. If you plan to check items more valuable than what's covered by the standard liability, see if your homeowner's policy covers your valuables, get baggage insurance as part of your comprehensive travel-insurance package, or buy Travel Guard's "BagTrak" product.

If your luggage is lost, immediately file a lost-luggage claim at the airport, detailing the luggage contents. Most airlines require that you report delayed, damaged, or lost baggage within 4 hours of arrival. The airlines are required to deliver luggage, once found, directly to your house or destination free of charge.

Health

What to Do If You Get Sick Away from Home -- If you get sick, consider asking your hotel concierge to recommend a local doctor -- even his or her own. You can also try an urgent-care facility or a local hospital, many of which have walk-in clinics for emergency cases that are not life-threatening. You may not get immediate attention, but you won't pay the high price of an emergency room visit.

If you suffer from a chronic illness, consult your doctor before leaving. Pack prescription medications in your carry-on, and carry them in their original containers, with pharmacy labels -- otherwise they won't make it through airport security. Visitors from outside the U.S. should carry generic names of prescription drugs. For U.S. travelers, most reliable health-care plans provide coverage if you get sick away from home. Foreign visitors may have to pay medical costs upfront and be reimbursed later.

Learning Vacations

The North Cascades Institute, 810 State Rte. 20, Sedro-Woolley, WA 98284-1239 (tel. 360/856-5700, ext. 209; www.ncascades.org), is a nonprofit organization that offers field seminars focusing on natural and cultural history in the North Cascades. The institute has a beautiful new campus on the shore of Diablo Lake in the North Cascades.

The Nature Conservancy is a nonprofit organization dedicated to the global preservation of natural diversity. It operates educational field trips and work parties to its own nature preserves. For information about trips in Washington, contact The Nature Conservancy, 1917 First Ave., Seattle, WA 98101 (tel. 206/343-4344; www.nature.org).

If you enjoy the wilderness and want to get more involved in preserving it, consider a Sierra Club Service Trip. These trips are for the purpose of building, restoring, and maintaining hiking trails in wilderness areas. It's a lot of work, but it's also a lot of fun. For more information on Service Trips, contact Sierra Club Outings Department, 85 Second St., Second Floor, San Francisco, CA 94105 (tel. 415/977-5500; www.sierraclub.org). Alternatively, contact your local chapter of the Sierra Club or Washington's Cascade Chapter (tel. 206/378-0114; http://cascade.sierraclub.org).

Cruises

While Washington is not a big cruise ship destination per se, several companies offer Alaska cruises that start in Washington and spend a little time in the waters of Puget Sound and the San Juan Islands. Several smaller cruise lines provide voyages on small ships. Rates below are per person and based on double occupancy.

In the big-ship category, several companies operate 7-day Alaska cruises out of Seattle. Norwegian Cruise Lines (tel. 866/234-0292; www.ncl.com) trips start at $549, Holland America Line (tel. 877/SAIL-HAL; www.hollandamerica.com) cruises start at $865, and Princess Cruises (tel. 800/PRINCESS; www.princess.com) offer some that start at $725.

Cruises on smaller ships are provided by several other companies. Lindblad Expeditions (tel. 800/397-3348; www.expeditions.com) has a 12-day voyage through the San Juan Islands to Alaska, with fares starting at $6,990. Cruise West (tel. 888/851-8133; www.cruisewest.com) offers an 11-day trip from Seattle to Alaska. Fares start at $3,599 per person. Catalyst Cruises (tel. 800/670-7678; www.cruise-nw.com) has 7-day San Juan Island voyages on a 62-foot yacht. The fare is $1,750 per person.

There are also cruises on small vessels up the Columbia River. Most of these play up Lewis and Clark history. Cruise West (tel. 888/851-8133; www.cruisewest.com) has an 8-day trip from Portland on the Columbia and Snake rivers. Fares start at $2,949. Five- to 13-day cruises with naturalists and historians are offered by Lindblad Expeditions (tel. 800/397-3348; www.expeditions.com), starting at $1,820.

The Queen of the West and the Empress of the North, two modern paddle-wheel ships operated by the Majestic America Line (tel. 800/434-1232; www.majesticamericaline.com), cruise the Columbia. The 7-night fares start at $2,170. The Empress of the North also cruises from Seattle to Alaska.

Tips for Families

If you have enough trouble simply getting your kids out of the house in the morning, dragging them thousands of miles away may seem like an insurmountable challenge. But family travel can be immensely rewarding, giving you new ways of seeing the world through smaller pairs of eyes.

Families traveling in Washington should be sure to take note of family admission fees at many museums and other attractions. These admission prices are often less than what it would cost for individual tickets for the whole family. At hotels and motels, children usually stay free if they share their parent's room and no extra bed or crib is required, and sometimes they also get to eat for free in the hotel dining room. Be sure to ask.

Recommended family travel websites include Family Travel Forum (www.familytravelforum.com), a site that offers customized trip planning; Family Travel Network (www.familytravelnetwork.com), an online magazine providing travel tips; TravelWithYourKids.com (www.travelwithyourkids.com), a comprehensive site written by parents for parents offering sound advice for long-distance and international travel with children.

Frommer's National Parks with Kids (John Wiley & Sons, Inc.) has tips for enjoying your trip to Olympic National Park.

Note: If you plan to travel on to Canada during your Seattle vacation, be sure to bring your children's passports.

When to Go

If you're reading this section, there's probably one question on your mind: When can I visit and not get rained on? The answer, of course, is never. Although the Northwest's infamous rains fall primarily between October and early July, it can rain any month of the year, so be sure to bring an umbrella or rain gear of some sort with you. This is especially important if you plan to visit the Olympic Peninsula, parts of which receive more than 150 inches of rain each year. In fact, if you visit any part of the coast, expect grayer, wetter weather than in the Seattle area. From the coast to the Cascade Range, moist winds off the Pacific Ocean keep temperatures mild year-round, so you'll likely need a sweater or light jacket at night, even if you visit in August.

July and August are the most reliably rainless months, and consequently, this is the most popular time to visit. It is during these months that the sun is seen most often and rain is almost unheard of (though not unknown). During these dry summer months, Washington families flock to the San Juan Islands to, among other things, watch the region's famous orca whales feeding in the waters off San Juan Island. July and August are also the state's main festival months, and several of the big festivals in the Seattle area can make finding a hotel room on a festival weekend difficult.

Labor Day weekend aside, September is one of the best months to visit. Skies are often still cloudless, and kids are back in school (the crowds at popular destinations, including the San Juan Islands and Mount Rainier, are really bad only on weekends). In the mountains, wildflowers often still bloom (though peak bloom in the Cascade Range and Olympic Mountains is July-Aug).

With the coming of the rains, Washingtonians begin spending far more time indoors and consequently, the performing arts in Seattle and other major cities begin their annual seasons. So, if you're keen on catching the Seattle Opera or some of Seattle's fringe theater, plan a rainy season visit. This may not be as bad as it sounds, as hotels in Seattle offer substantial discounts during the dreary winter months. Keep in mind, though, that winters usually include one or two blasts of Arctic air that bring snow and freezing weather to the Seattle area.

Winter also brings the ski season and sometimes record-setting snowfalls, such as that of the winter of 1998-99, which dumped close to 100 feet of snow on Mount Baker. While the snow in Washington can be heavy, rains often fall in the mountains in the middle of winter. Despite the unpredictable winter weather, there are several very popular ski areas in the Cascades, as well as some smaller ski areas in eastern Washington and the Olympic Peninsula.

Note that the preceding discussion applies to the west side of the Cascades. East of the Cascades, the climate is very different, and some regions, sometimes referred to as the high desert, are characterized by temperature extremes and a lack of rain. These areas can be very cold in the winter and can get moderate amounts of snow in the foothill regions. In summer, the weather can be blazing hot, though nights are often cool enough to require a sweater or light jacket. The dry lands of eastern Washington are primarily agricultural regions, and it is here that most of the state's wine grapes are grown. In winter, most wineries that are open to the public cut their hours or close down completely.

Package Tours

Package tours are simply a way to buy the airfare, accommodations, and other elements of your trip (such as car rentals, airport transfers, and sometimes even activities) at the same time and often at discounted prices.

One good source of package deals is the airlines themselves. Most major airlines offer air/land packages, including American Airlines Vacations (tel. 800/321-2121; www.aavacations.com), Delta Vacations (tel. 800/654-6559; www.deltavacations.com), Continental Airlines Vacations (tel. 800/301-3800; www.covacations.com), and United Vacations (tel. 888/854-3899; www.unitedvacations.com). Several big online travel agencies -- Expedia, Travelocity, Orbitz, and Lastminute.com -- also do a brisk business in packages.

Gray Line of Seattle (tel. 800/426-7532 or 206/624-5077; www.graylineofseattle.com) offers 3- to 7-day bus and cruise tours that include Seattle, Mount Rainier, and Vancouver and Victoria, British Columbia. Prices range from about $235 for a 3-day trip to $1,170 for a 7-day trip.

If you prefer traveling on your own, but would like to have a custom itinerary planned for your trip to Washington or the Northwest, consider consulting Pacific Northwest Journeys (tel. 800/935-9730 or 206/935-9730; www.pnwjourneys.com), which tailors trips to suit your personal traveling style.

Travel packages are also listed in the travel section of your local Sunday newspaper. Or check ads in the national travel magazines such as Arthur Frommer's Budget Travel Magazine, Travel + Leisure, National Geographic Traveler, and Conde Nast Traveler.

Ask Before You Go

Before you invest in a package deal or an escorted tour:

• Always ask about the cancellation policy. Can you get your money back? Is there a deposit required?

• Ask about the accommodations choices and prices for each. Then look up the hotels' reviews in a Frommer's guide and check their rates online for your specific dates of travel. Also find out what types of rooms are offered.

• Request a complete schedule. (Escorted tours only)

• Ask about the size and demographics of the group. (Escorted tours only)

• Discuss what is included in the price -- transportation, meals, tips, airport transfers, and so on. (Escorted tours only)

• Finally, look for hidden expenses. Ask whether airport departure fees and taxes, for example, are included in the total cost -- they rarely are.

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

Seattle is one of the most gay-friendly cities in the country, with a large gay and lesbian community centered around Capitol Hill. In this neighborhood are numerous bars, nightclubs, stores, and bed-and-breakfasts catering to the gay community. Broadway, Capitol Hill's main drag, is the site of the annual Seattle Pride march (www.seattlepride.org), held each year in late June.

The first place to look for Seattle information is on the Seattle Convention and Visitors Bureau's LGBT Web pages (www.visitseattle.org/visitors/lgbt). Once you're in Seattle, pick up a copy of the Seattle Gay News (tel. 206/324-4297; www.sgn.org), available at area bookstores and gay bars and nightclubs.

The Lesbian Resource Center, 227 S. Orcas St. (tel. 206/322-3953; www.lrc.net), provides community and business resource information as well as a calendar of upcoming events and activities.

The Gaslight Inn is a gay-friendly bed-and-breakfast in the Capitol Hill area. For information on gay and lesbian bars and nightclubs,

The International Gay and Lesbian Travel Association (IGLTA; tel. 800/448-8550 or 954/776-2626; www.iglta.org) is the trade association for the gay and lesbian travel industry, and offers an online directory of gay- and lesbian-friendly travel businesses and tour operators.

Many agencies offer tours and travel itineraries specifically for gay and lesbian travelers. Above and Beyond Tours (tel. 800/397-2681; www.abovebeyondtours.com), based in Australia, specializes in gay-friendly tours. San Francisco-based Now, Voyager (tel. 800/255-6951; www.nowvoyager.com) offers worldwide trips and cruises. Olivia (tel. 800/631-6277; www.olivia.com) offers cruises and resort vacations for lesbians.

Gay.com Travel (tel. 800/929-2268 or 415/644-8044; www.gay.com/travel or www.outandabout.com), is an excellent online successor to the popular Out & About print magazine. It provides regularly updated information about gay-owned, gay-oriented, and gay-friendly lodging, dining, sightseeing, nightlife, and shopping establishments in every important destination worldwide.

The following travel guides are available at many bookstores, or you can order them from any online bookseller: Spartacus International Gay Guide, 35th Edition (Bruno Gmünder Verlag; www.spartacusworld.com/gayguide) and Odysseus: The International Gay Travel Planner, 17th Edition (www.odyusa.com); and the Damron guides (www.damron.com), with separate, annual books for gay men and lesbians.

Getting There

By Plane

The Major Airlines -- Seattle-Tacoma International Airport (tel. 206/433-5388; www.portseattle.org/seatac), commonly called "Sea-Tac," is served by about 30 airlines, including:

Air Canada -- tel. 888/247-2262; www.aircanada.com

Alaska Airlines/Horizon Air -- tel. 800/252-7522; www.alaskaair.com

American Airlines -- tel. 800/433-7300; www.aa.com

America West Airlines -- tel. 800/235-9292; www.usairways.com

British Airways -- tel. 800/247-9297; www.britishairways.com

Continental -- tel. 800/523-3273; www.continental.com

Delta -- tel. 800/221-1212; www.delta.com

Frontier -- tel. 800/432-1359; www.flyfrontier.com

JetBlue Airways -- tel. 800/538-2583; www.jetblue.com

Northwest/KLM -- tel. 800/225-2525; www.nwa.com

Southwest -- tel. 800/435-9792; www.southwest.com

United -- tel. 800/864-8331; www.ual.com

US Airways -- tel. 800/428-4322; www.usairways.com

International carriers that fly from Europe to Los Angeles and/or San Francisco (from where you can continue to Seattle on a domestic carrier) include Aer Lingus (tel. 0818/365-000 in Ireland; www.aerlingus.com) and British Airways (tel. 0870/850-9850; www.britishairways.com). The latter also flies direct to Seattle from London.

From New Zealand and Australia, there are flights to San Francisco and Los Angeles on Qantas (tel. 13-13-13 in Australia; www.qantas.com.au) and Air New Zealand (tel. 0800/737-000 in New Zealand; www.airnewzealand.co.nz). From Los Angeles, you can continue on to Seattle on a regional domestic carrier.

Kenmore Air (tel. 866/435-9524 or 425/486-1257; www.kenmoreair.com) offers seaplane service between Seattle and the San Juan Islands and Victoria, British Columbia. Its Seattle terminals are at the south end of Lake Union and at the north end of Lake Washington.

Immigration & Customs Clearance -- Foreign visitors arriving by air, no matter what the port of entry, should cultivate patience and resignation before setting foot on U.S. soil. U.S. airports have considerably beefed up security clearances in the years since the terrorist attacks of 9/11, and clearing Customs and Immigration can take as long as 2 hours.

People traveling by air from Canada, Bermuda, and certain Caribbean countries can sometimes clear Customs and Immigration at the point of departure, which is much faster.

By Car

Seattle is 110 miles from Vancouver, British Columbia, 175 miles from Portland, 810 miles from San Francisco, 1,190 miles from Los Angeles, and 285 miles from Spokane.

I-5 is the main north-south artery through Washington, running south to Portland and north to the Canadian border. I-405 is Seattle's east-side bypass and accesses the cities of Bellevue, Redmond, and Kirkland on the east side of Lake Washington. I-90 connects Seattle to Spokane in eastern Washington. Wash. 520 connects I-405 with Seattle just north of downtown and also ends at I-5. Wash. 99, the Alaskan Way Viaduct, is a major north-south highway that passes right through the Seattle waterfront.

All the major car-rental agencies have offices in Seattle and at or near Seattle-Tacoma International Airport, including:

Advantage (tel. 800/777-5500 or 206/824-0161; www.arac.com)

Alamo (tel. 800/462-5266 or 206/433-0182; www.goalamo.com)

Avis (tel. 800/331-1212 or 206/433-5232; www.avis.com)

Budget (tel. 800/527-0700 or 206/444-7510; www.budget.com)

Dollar (tel. 800/800-4000 or 206/433-5825; www.dollar.com)

Enterprise (tel. 800/261-7331 or 206/246-1953; www.enterprise.com)

Hertz (tel. 800/654-3131 or 206/248-1300; www.hertz.com)

National (tel. 800/227-7368 or 206/433-5501; www.nationalcar.com)

Thrifty (tel. 800/847-4389 or 877/283-0898; www.thrifty.com)

By Train

Amtrak (tel. 800/872-7245; www.amtrak.com) service runs from Vancouver, British Columbia, to Seattle and from Portland and as far south as Eugene, Ore., on the Cascades (a high-speed, European-style Talgo train). The train takes about 4 hours from Vancouver to Seattle and 3 1/2 to 4 hours from Portland to Seattle. One-way fares from Vancouver to Seattle or from Portland to Seattle are usually between $28 and $37. Booking earlier will get you a less-expensive ticket.

There is also Amtrak service to Seattle from San Diego, Los Angeles, San Francisco, and Portland on the Coast Starlight, and from Spokane and points east on the Empire Builder. Amtrak also operates a bus between Vancouver and Seattle, so be careful when making a reservation as you might be on a bus, rather than a train.

Like the airlines, Amtrak offers several discounted fares; although they're not all based on advance purchase, you'll have more discount options by reserving early. The discount fares can be used only on certain days and during certain hours; be sure to find out exactly what restrictions apply. Tickets for children 2 to 15 cost half the price of a regular coach fare when the children are accompanied by a fare-paying adult.

Also inquire about money-saving packages that include hotel accommodations, car rentals, tours, and so on with your train fare.

By Ferry

If you're traveling between Victoria, British Columbia, and Seattle, ferries from Victoria Clipper, Pier 69, 2701 Alaskan Way (tel. 800/888-2535, 206/448-5000, or 250/382-8100 in Victoria; www.victoriaclipper.com), make the 2- or 3-hour trip year-round. Prices range from $79 to $140 round-trip for adults (the lower fare is for advance-purchase tickets). Some scheduled trips also stop in the San Juan Islands.

Bellingham, north of Seattle, is the port for Alaska ferries.

Visitor Information

For information on Washington, contact the Washington State Tourism Office (tel. 800/544-1800; www.experiencewa.com/). For information on the Seattle area, contact Seattle's Convention and Visitors Bureau, 701 Pike St., Suite 800, Seattle, WA 98101 (tel. 206/461-5840; www.visitseattle.org), which operates a Citywide Concierge & Visitor Center inside the Washington State Convention and Trade Center, at Seventh Avenue and Pike Street, main level (tel. 206/461-5888). If you're surfing the Net for information on the Seattle area, check out www.ci.seattle.wa.us/html/visitor, the city of Seattle's visitor information site.

Also, keep in mind that most cities and towns in Washington have either a tourist office or a chamber of commerce that can provide you with information. When approaching cities and towns, watch for signs along the highway directing you to these information centers. See the individual chapters for specific addresses.

For information on outdoor recreation in national parks and national forests of Washington, contact the Outdoor Recreation Information Center, Seattle REI Building, 222 Yale Ave. N., Seattle, WA 98109 (tel. 206/470-4060; www.discovernw.org/ranger-station-rei-seattle.htm).

For information on Washington state parks, contact Washington State Parks and Recreation Commission, 7150 Cleanwater Dr. SW (P.O. Box 42650), Tumwater, WA 98504-2650 (tel. 360/902-8844; www.parks.wa.gov).

Money

It's always advisable to bring money in a variety of forms on a vacation: a mix of cash, credit cards, and traveler's checks. You should also exchange enough petty cash to cover airport incidentals, tipping, and transportation to your hotel before you leave home, or withdraw money upon arrival at an airport ATM.

ATMs

Nationwide, the easiest and best way to get cash away from home is from an ATM (automated teller machine), sometimes referred to as a "cash machine," or "cashpoint." The Cirrus (tel. 800/424-7787; www.mastercard.com) and PLUS (tel. 800/843-7587; www.visa.com) networks span the country; you can find them even in remote regions. Go to your bank card's website to find ATM locations at your destination. Be sure you know your daily withdrawal limit before you depart.

Note: Many banks impose a fee every time you use a card at another bank's ATM, and that fee is often higher for international transactions (up to $5 or more) than for domestic ones (where they're rarely more than $2). In addition, the bank from which you withdraw cash may charge its own fee. To compare banks' ATM fees within the U.S., use www.bankrate.com. Visitors from outside the U.S. should also find out whether their bank assesses a 1% to 3% fee on charges incurred abroad.

Credit Cards & Debit Cards

Credit cards are the most widely used form of payment in the United States: Visa (Barclaycard in Britain), MasterCard (EuroCard in Europe, Access in Britain), American Express, Diners Club, and Discover. They also provide a convenient record of all your expenses, and offer relatively good exchange rates. You can withdraw cash advances from your credit cards at banks or ATMs, but high fees make credit-card cash advances a pricey way to get cash.

You should travel with at least one major credit card. You must have a credit card to rent a car, and hotels and airlines usually require a credit card imprint as a deposit against expenses.

ATM cards with major credit card backing, known as debit cards, are now a commonly acceptable form of payment in most stores and restaurants. Debit cards draw money directly from your checking account. Some stores enable you to receive cash back on your debit-card purchases as well. The same is true at most U.S. post offices.

Travelers Checks

Though credit cards and debit cards are more often used, traveler's checks are still widely accepted in the U.S. Foreign visitors should make sure that traveler's checks are denominated in U.S. dollars; foreign-currency checks are often difficult to exchange.

You can buy traveler's checks at most banks. Most are offered in denominations of $20, $50, $100, $500, and sometimes $1,000. Generally, you'll pay a service charge ranging from 1% to 4%.

The most popular traveler's checks are offered by American Express (tel. 800/807-6233; tel. 800/221-7282 for cardholders -- this number accepts collect calls, offers service in several foreign languages, and exempts Amex gold and platinum cardholders from the 1% fee.); Visa (tel. 800/732-1322) -- AAA members can obtain Visa checks for a $9.95 fee (for checks up to $1,500) at most AAA offices or by calling tel. 866/339-3378; and MasterCard (tel. 800/223-9920).

Be sure to keep a copy of the traveler's checks' serial numbers separate from your checks in the event that they are stolen or lost. You'll get a refund faster if you know the numbers.

Another option is the new prepaid traveler's check cards, reloadable cards that work much like debit cards but aren't linked to your checking account. The American Express Travelers Cheque Card, for example, requires a minimum deposit ($300), sets a maximum balance ($2,750), and has a one-time issuance fee of $14.95. You can withdraw money from an ATM ($2.50 per transaction, not including bank fees), and the funds can be purchased in dollars, euros, or pounds. If you lose the card, your available funds will be refunded within 24 hours.

Entry Requirements & Customs

Entry Requirements

Passports -- For up-to-date passport requirements for countries around the world, check out the Consular Information Sheets for individual nations at the U.S. State Department Web site (start at http://travel.state.gov). International visitors can obtain a visa application at the same website. Note: Children must present a passport when entering the U.S. at airports.

Visas -- The U.S. State Department has a Visa Waiver Program (VWP) allowing citizens of the following countries (at press time) to enter the United States without a visa for stays of up to 90 days: Andorra, Australia, Austria, Belgium, Brunei, Denmark, Finland, France, Germany, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Japan, Liechtenstein, Luxembourg, Monaco, the Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, Portugal, San Marino, Singapore, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, and the United Kingdom. Canadian citizens may enter the U.S. without visas; however, they will need to show either a passport or a government-issued photo ID (such as a driver's license) and proof of citizenship (such as a birth certificate). Note: Any passport issued by a VWP country on or after October 26, 2006, must be an e-Passport for VWP travelers to be eligible to enter the U.S. without a visa. Citizens of these nations also need to present a round-trip air or cruise ticket upon arrival. E-Passports contain computer chips capable of storing biometric information, such as the required digital photograph of the holder. (You can identify an e-Passport by the symbol on the bottom center cover of your passport.) If your passport doesn't have this feature, you can still travel without a visa if it is a valid passport issued before October 26, 2005, and includes a machine-readable zone, or between October 26, 2005, and October 25, 2006, and includes a digital photograph. For more information, go to www.travel.state.gov/visa.

Citizens of all other countries must have (1) a valid passport that expires at least 6 months later than the scheduled end of their visit to the United States, and (2) a tourist visa, which may be obtained without charge from any U.S. consulate.

Many international visitors traveling on visas to the United States will be photographed and fingerprinted on arrival at Customs in airports and on cruise ships in a program created by the Department of Homeland Security called US-VISIT. Exempt from the extra scrutiny are visitors entering by land or those (mostly in Europe) that don't require a visa for short-term visits. For more information, go to the Homeland Security website at www.dhs.gov/usvisit.

U.S. Entry: Passport Required -- New regulations issued by the Department of Homeland Security now require virtually every air traveler entering the U.S. to show a passport. As of January 23, 2007, all persons, including U.S. citizens, traveling by air between the United States and Canada, Mexico, Central and South America, the Caribbean, and Bermuda are required to present a valid passport. As of January 31, 2008, travelers entering the U.S. by land and sea from the above regions are required to show either a passport or a government-issued photo ID (such as a driver's license) and proof of citizenship (such as a birth certificate).

Medical Requirements -- Unless you're arriving from an area known to be suffering from an epidemic (particularly cholera or yellow fever), inoculations or vaccinations are not required for entry into the United States. If you have a medical condition that requires syringe-administered medications, carry a valid signed prescription from your physician; syringes in carry-on baggage will be inspected. Insulin in any form should have the proper pharmaceutical documentation. If you have a disease that requires treatment with narcotics, you should also carry documented proof with you -- smuggling narcotics aboard a plane carries severe penalties in the U.S.

For HIV-positive visitors, requirements for entering the United States are somewhat vague and change frequently. For up-to-the-minute information, contact AIDSinfo (tel. 800/448-0440 or 301/519-6616 outside the U.S.; www.aidsinfo.nih.gov) or the Gay Men's Health Crisis (tel. 212/367-1000; www.gmhc.org).

Customs

What You Can Bring into Washington -- Every visitor more than 21 years of age may bring in, free of duty, the following: (1) 1 liter of wine or hard liquor; (2) 200 cigarettes, 100 cigars (but not from Cuba), or 3 pounds of smoking tobacco; and (3) $100 worth of gifts. These exemptions are offered to travelers who spend at least 72 hours in the United States and who have not claimed them within the preceding 6 months. It is altogether forbidden to bring into the country foodstuffs (particularly fruit, cooked meats, and canned goods) and plants (vegetables, seeds, tropical plants, and the like). Foreign tourists may carry in or out up to $10,000 in U.S. or foreign currency with no formalities; larger sums must be declared to U.S. Customs on entering or leaving, which includes filing form CM 4790. For details regarding U.S. Customs and Border Protection, consult your nearest U.S. embassy or consulate, or U.S. Customs (tel. 202/927-1770; www.customs.ustreas.gov).

What You Can Take Home from Washington -- Canadian Citizens: For a clear summary of Canadian rules, write for the booklet I Declare, issued by the Canada Border Services Agency (tel. 800/461-9999 in Canada, or 204/983-3500; www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca).

U.K. Citizens: For information, contact HM Customs & Excise at tel. 0845/010-9000 (from outside the U.K., 020/8929-0152), or consult their website at www.hmce.gov.uk.

Australian Citizens: A helpful brochure available from Australian consulates or Customs offices is Know Before You Go. For more information, call the Australian Customs Service at tel. 1300/363-263, or log on to www.customs.gov.au.

New Zealand Citizens: Most questions are answered in a free pamphlet available at New Zealand consulates and Customs offices: New Zealand Customs Guide for Travellers, Notice no. 4. For more information, contact New Zealand Customs, The Customhouse, 17-21 Whitmore St., Box 2218, Wellington (tel. 04/473-6099 or 0800/428-786; www.customs.govt.nz).

Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

Most disabilities shouldn't stop anyone from traveling in the U.S. There are more options and resources out there than ever before.

Most hotels provide wheelchair-accessible rooms, and some of the larger and more expensive hotels have TDD telephones and other amenities for the hearing- and sight-impaired.

In Seattle, newer buses are accessible, as are the light rail and the streetcar from downtown to South Lake Union. Seattle, with its steep downtown streets, can be difficult for wheelchairs.

The America the Beautiful -- National Park and Federal Recreational Lands Pass -- Access Pass (formerly the Golden Access Passport) gives travelers with visual impairments or those with permanent disabilities (regardless of age) free lifetime entrance to federal recreation sites administered by the National Park Service. This includes national parks, monuments, historic sites, recreation areas, and national wildlife refuges. The America the Beautiful Access Pass can be obtained in person at a National Park Service facility that charges an entrance fee, such as Fort Clatsop–Lewis & Clark National Historical Park, or by mail using the form on the website ($10 processing fee). You need to show proof of a medically determined disability. Besides free entry, the pass also offers a 50% discount on some federal-use fees charged for such facilities as camping, swimming, parking, boat launching, and tours. For more information, go to www.nps.gov/fees_passes.htm or call tel. 888/467-2757. The annual fee is $80.

Organizations that offer a vast range of resources and assistance to travelers with disabilities include MossRehab (tel. 800/CALL-MOSS; www.mossresourcenet.org); the American Foundation for the Blind (AFB; tel. 800/232-5463; www.afb.org); and SATH (Society for Accessible Travel & Hospitality; tel. 212/447-7284; www.sath.org). AirAmbulanceCard.com is partnered with SATH and allows you to preselect top-notch hospitals in case of an emergency.

Access-Able Travel Source (tel. 303/232-2979; www.access-able.com) offers a comprehensive database on travel agents from around the world with experience in accessible travel; destination-specific access information; and links to such resources as service animals, equipment rentals, and access guides.

Many travel agencies offer customized tours and itineraries for travelers with disabilities. Among them are Flying Wheels Travel (tel. 507/451-5005; www.flyingwheelstravel.com); and Accessible Journeys (tel. 800/846-4537 or 610/521-0339; www.disabilitytravel.com).

Flying with Disability (www.flying-with-disability.org) is a comprehensive information source on airplane travel. Avis Rent a Car (tel. 888/879-4273) has an "Avis Access" program that offers services for customers with special travel needs. These include specially outfitted vehicles with swivel seats, spinner knobs, and hand controls; mobility scooter rentals; and accessible bus service. Be sure to reserve well in advance.

Also check out the quarterly magazine Emerging Horizons (www.emerginghorizons.com), available by subscription ($16.95 year U.S.; $21.95 outside U.S.).

The "Accessible Travel" link at Mobility-Advisor.com (www.mobility-advisor.com) offers a variety of travel resources to persons with disabilities.

British travelers should contact Holiday Care (tel. 0845-124-9971 in U.K.; www.holidaycare.org.uk) to access a wide range of travel information and resources for seniors and for persons with disabilities.