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Gougane Barra

One of Western Ireland’s most beautiful spots, Gougane Barra (which means “St. Fin Barre’s Cleft”) is the name of both a tiny old settlement and a forest park a little northeast of the Pass of Keimaneigh, 24km (15 miles) northeast of Bantry, and well signposted off R584. (If you’re coming from the east, it’s about 30km (18.6 miles) southwest of Macroom.) Its loveliest feature is a still, dark, romantic lake, which is the source of the River Lee. This is where St. Fin Barre founded a monastery, supposedly on the small island connected by a causeway to the mainland. Though nothing remains of the saint’s 6th-century community, the setting is idyllic, with rhododendrons spilling into the still waters where swans glide by. The island now holds an elfin chapel and eight small circular cells dating from the early 1700s, as well as a modern chapel. Signposted walks and drives lead through the wooded hills.