Things To Do in Xian

Xian Attractions

Xi'an has a bewildering array of sights that can confound the visitor with little time to spare. The Terra-Cotta Warriors are a must, as is the Shanxi History Museum, but make sure you also leave time for a walk or bike ride along the city walls, a dumpling banquet, and an alfresco meal of kabobs in the Muslim markets after visiting the Great Mosque.

Eastern Route (Dong Xian) -- Of the two common tours from Xi'an, the Eastern Route is shorter, less expensive, and more popular than the Western Route. There is enough to keep you interested for a whole day, but organized tours of the Eastern Route include "shopping" and sights of dubious merit. While tours are convenient if you have the time, you can do without one. If you are short on time, simply visit Bingmayong as a half-day trip.

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Xian Shopping

Along with good clothes and sports shops on Dong Dajie, and a decent supermarket in the Century Ginwa (below Bell Tower Square), Xi'an has plenty of decent markets.

Ba Xian An -- The outdoor antiques market on Sunday mornings is the most atmospheric in town. Despite a sign warning that antiques must be declared with Customs before you leave China, there's no guarantee that what you buy is a genuine antique. But there is a buzz to the place, and you can find some wonderful Cultural Revolution kitsch, ceramics, bronze Buddhas, and Qing coins. See the Ba Xian An review in "Exploring Xi'an," above, for directions.

Huajue Xiang -- The most enjoyable place to shop for souvenirs is the covered alleyway that leads to Da Qingzhensi. Shopping here is a blood sport, and you are the game, but the vendors are friendly. Interesting finds include feng shui compasses, Mao lighters, Tibetan prayer wheels, Little Red Books in French, and gnarled walking sticks.

Shuyuan Xiang -- This enjoyable street for browsing is east of Nan Men, on the way to Beilin Bowuguan. Shops sell huge paint brushes, rubbings, paintings, and musical instruments, and you can watch artists at work in this faithfully restored street.

Xian Nightlife

As well as the cultural entertainment options listed below, Xi'an also has a fairly lively nightlife scene; the best place to sample this is Defuxiang Bar Street (Defuxiang Jiuba Jie), northwest of Nan Men, where there are plenty of different bars to choose from.

The Performing Arts

Two companies perform Tang-style banquets and musicals to entertain visitors. The competition for the group-tour dollar is fierce.

Catching Chinese Shadows -- Piying was the staple entertainment of rural Shanxi before karaoke. Puppets are carved from leather and dyed dazzling colors -- many date from the Qing dynasty (1644-1911). There are over 600 different plays, ranging from legends to love stories to kung-fu epics. Unlike opera, this is loud, irreverent entertainment for the masses. Piying is a dying art form; it takes 10 years to learn the craft, and for most, driving a taxi is a more appealing option, but tourism may just save the day and short performances (¥15) can now be seen on request at Gaojia Dayuan (8:30am-11pm; entrance ¥15) on the western side of Bei Yuan Men in the Muslim quarter.