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La Rinconada de Lorenzo

An old-fashioned favorite, “Larry's Little Corner” has acquitted itself of stodginess by introducing a line of creative tapas that often sweep the local awards. It’s in the university area, so the bar is always hopping even when the dining room is quiet. The fare is traditional for Aragón, favoring roasted meats, especially the D.O. Ternasco de Aragón, a special variety of lamb. The lamb even shows up stewed, as in the dark and unctuous bowl of trotters. The wine list is short on whites but has multiple reasonably priced red options from the Aragonese wine districts of Calatayud, Somontano, and Cariñena.