This very trendy art nouveau café-bar was once a notorious coffeehouse where the prerevolutionary Lenin and other intellectuals met when they could not afford to heat their own rooms. James Joyce, Einstein, Mata Hari, and Mussolini also visited. The ornate mirrors, marble tables, and glass chandeliers here are all original, but now the crowd runs countercultural and chic. By night, it's especially popular with singles and gays, remaining open late into the night.