scalleja
In the late 1800s and early 1900s, Montmartre was an off-the-beaten-path hangout for artists, poets, and other interesting characters. Now, due in part to the popularityof the film Amélie, Montmartre has become a tourist attraction.
Luckily, there are still many ways to explore this neighborhood like a local. To get a genuine experience, plan to sightsee early in the morning. Then head down the less tourist-trodden side streets, meet the locals in bistros and bars, and buy goods from shopkeepers chatting with their regular customers.
Photo Caption: Montmartre, Paris. Photo by scalleja/Flickr.com.
Café des Deux Moulins -- where actress Audrey Tatou's character worked as a waitress in Amélie -- is naturally now known as "Amélie's Café." After snapping the requisite photos, keep walking to see more neighborhood landmarks.
Where: 15 Rue Lepic, near the Moulin Rouge; Métro: Blanche
Photo Caption: Café des Deux Moulins in Montmartre, Paris. Photo by mariosp/Flickr.com.
Le Bateau-Lavoir is worth a look because some of the most influential artists and writers of the 20th century once lived on this spot. Pablo Picasso had a studio from 1904 to 1912. He painted Les Demoiselles d'Avignon here, ushering in Cubism. Other former residents include artists Amedeo Modigliani and Juan Gris, as well as poets Max Jacob and André Salmon. A fire destroyed the original building, but there's a commemorative window in the new one.
Where: 13 rue Ravignan, Place Emile Goudeau; Métro: Abbesses
Photo Caption: Le Bateau Lavoir in Montmartre, Paris. Photo by Jeffrey F/Frommers.com Community.
What looks like a blackboard covered with writing is actually a wall of glazed tiles with "I Love You" written in 250 languages to inspire peace and love.
Where: Place des Abbesses, Square Jehan Rictus; Métro: Abbesses
More Info: www.lesjetaime.com
Photo Caption: Le Mur des "Je t'aime" -- the "I Love You" Wall in Montmartre, Paris. Photo by Moxieg/Flickr.com.
This enchanting sculpture, bursting through a wall, is based on a short story by writer Marcel Aymé, who lived in Montmartre. The character, Monsieur Dutilleul, was able to walk through walls (le passe-muraille). The multi-talented French actor Jean Marais made the bronze sculpture as a tribute to the author.
Where: Place Marcel Aymé, at rue Norvins & rue Girardon; Métro: Lamarck-Caulaincourt
Photo Caption: Le Passe-Muraille, a sculpture in Montmartre, Paris, is based on a short story of the same name. Photo by ptwo/Flickr.com.
Before Manoir de Rosimond housed artifacts highlighting Montmartre's fascinating history, the building was home to some incredible artists, such as Pierre-Auguste Renoir, Maurice Utrillo, and Raoul Dufy. Its hidden courtyard garden is lovely as well.
Where: 12 rue Cortot; Métro: Lamarck-Caulaincourt
More Info: tel. 01/49-25-89-37; www.museedemontmartre.fr
Photo Caption: Musée de Montmatre, Paris. Photo by ktylerconk/Flickr.com.
Montmartre's vineyards date from 390 B.C., but the vines in the current Clos Montmartre (between rue des Saules and rue Saint-Vincent right behind the museum) were planted in 1929. Every year, during the first week of October, Montmartre's Harvest Festival, La Fête des Vendanges de Montmartre (www.fetedesvendangesdemontmartre.com) is celebrated with a parade, wine-tasting booths, food stalls, music, and dancing in the streets.
Where: Between rue des Saules and rue Saint-Vincent; Métro: Lamarck-Caulaincourt
More Info: tel. 01/44-92-35-34; www.commanderie-montmartre.com
Photo Caption: View of the Clos Montmartre, Paris. Photo by Basili/Wikimedia Commons.
If you have time for only one activity in Montmartre, make it an evening at Lapin Agile. Opened in 1860, artists and writers such as Picasso, Utrillo, and Modigliani used to hang out here. Now, the renowned singer Yves Mathieu and his handsome sons, Frédéric and Vincent, keep the art of French chanson alive. You can't go back in time, but a talented group of musicians and singers brings the past to life each night.
Where: 22 rue des Saules; Métro: Lamarck-Caulaincourt
More Info: tel. 01/46-06-85-87; www.au-lapin-agile.com
Cost: €24 per person, includes one drink
Photo Caption: Lapin Agile in Montmartre, Paris. Photo by auselen/Flickr.com.
The best way to see Montmartre is on foot. In addition to famous places such as Sacré-Coeur, Place du Tertre, and historic cabarets, this two-hour Paris Walks tour takes you past former artists' studios (Renoir, Lautrec, Van Gogh), gardens, and lesser-known sites.
More Info: tel. 01/48-09-21-40; www.paris-walks.com
Photo Caption: Sacré-Coeur Basilica in Montmartre, Paris. Photo by EnchantingIreland.com/Frommers.com Community.
Want to eat and drink like a local? Paris Walks proprietors, Peter and Oriel Caine, recommend these six neighborhood spots.
Au Relais bistro (48 rue Lamarck; tel. 01/46-06-68-32; www.restaurant-aurelais-paris18.fr), at the base of the rue Mont Cenis staircase, is the spot if you're in the mood for some classic French fare. There's also a nice terrace.
Les Petits Mitrons (26 rue Lepic; tel. 01/46-06-10-29) is a local bakery much loved for its homemade quiches and fruit tarts. (Try the chocolate and pear one.)
Lepic Assiette (35 rue Lepic; tel. 01/42-55-95-95) is a great neighborhood crêperie that's affordable and perfect for a light lunch.
L'Etoile de Montmartre (26 rue Duhesme; tel. 01/46-06-14-65), near the Lamarck metro stop, is another favorite bistro.
Want to meet the locals? Head off the main streets and into neighborhood bars: La Midinette (2 rue Robert Planquette; tel. 01/42-54-40-70; www.midinettemontmartre.fr) and Le Colibri (35 rue Véron; tel. 01/46-06-07-90; www.colibri-montmartre.com).
Photo Caption: Au Relais bistro in Montmartre, Paris. Photo by rafelbunyol/Flickr.com.
Luckily, there are still many ways to explore this neighborhood like a local. To get a genuine experience, plan to sightsee early in the morning. Then head down the less tourist-trodden side streets, meet the locals in bistros and bars, and buy goods from shopkeepers chatting with their regular customers.
Photo Caption: Montmartre, Paris. Photo by scalleja/Flickr.com.
Where: 15 Rue Lepic, near the Moulin Rouge; Métro: Blanche
Photo Caption: Café des Deux Moulins in Montmartre, Paris. Photo by mariosp/Flickr.com.
Where: 13 rue Ravignan, Place Emile Goudeau; Métro: Abbesses
Photo Caption: Le Bateau Lavoir in Montmartre, Paris. Photo by Jeffrey F/Frommers.com Community.
Where: Place des Abbesses, Square Jehan Rictus; Métro: Abbesses
More Info: www.lesjetaime.com
Photo Caption: Le Mur des "Je t'aime" -- the "I Love You" Wall in Montmartre, Paris. Photo by Moxieg/Flickr.com.
Where: Place Marcel Aymé, at rue Norvins & rue Girardon; Métro: Lamarck-Caulaincourt
Photo Caption: Le Passe-Muraille, a sculpture in Montmartre, Paris, is based on a short story of the same name. Photo by ptwo/Flickr.com.
Where: 12 rue Cortot; Métro: Lamarck-Caulaincourt
More Info: tel. 01/49-25-89-37; www.museedemontmartre.fr
Photo Caption: Musée de Montmatre, Paris. Photo by ktylerconk/Flickr.com.
Where: Between rue des Saules and rue Saint-Vincent; Métro: Lamarck-Caulaincourt
More Info: tel. 01/44-92-35-34; www.commanderie-montmartre.com
Photo Caption: View of the Clos Montmartre, Paris. Photo by Basili/Wikimedia Commons.
Where: 22 rue des Saules; Métro: Lamarck-Caulaincourt
More Info: tel. 01/46-06-85-87; www.au-lapin-agile.com
Cost: €24 per person, includes one drink
Photo Caption: Lapin Agile in Montmartre, Paris. Photo by auselen/Flickr.com.
More Info: tel. 01/48-09-21-40; www.paris-walks.com
Photo Caption: Sacré-Coeur Basilica in Montmartre, Paris. Photo by EnchantingIreland.com/Frommers.com Community.
Au Relais bistro (48 rue Lamarck; tel. 01/46-06-68-32; www.restaurant-aurelais-paris18.fr), at the base of the rue Mont Cenis staircase, is the spot if you're in the mood for some classic French fare. There's also a nice terrace.
Les Petits Mitrons (26 rue Lepic; tel. 01/46-06-10-29) is a local bakery much loved for its homemade quiches and fruit tarts. (Try the chocolate and pear one.)
Lepic Assiette (35 rue Lepic; tel. 01/42-55-95-95) is a great neighborhood crêperie that's affordable and perfect for a light lunch.
L'Etoile de Montmartre (26 rue Duhesme; tel. 01/46-06-14-65), near the Lamarck metro stop, is another favorite bistro.
Want to meet the locals? Head off the main streets and into neighborhood bars: La Midinette (2 rue Robert Planquette; tel. 01/42-54-40-70; www.midinettemontmartre.fr) and Le Colibri (35 rue Véron; tel. 01/46-06-07-90; www.colibri-montmartre.com).
Photo Caption: Au Relais bistro in Montmartre, Paris. Photo by rafelbunyol/Flickr.com.