5 Great Restaurants in Washington, DC, for Latin and Hispanic Cuisine: Mexican, José Andrés, and More
By Veronica StoddartThe Latino population in Washington, DC, has been on the upswing since the 1980s, and it now forms the U.S. capital city’s largest and fastest-growing minority group. Out of DC’s population of 5.5 million, nearly a million of those people are Latino. Among them, perhaps surprisingly, are the largest Bolivian and second-largest Salvadoran groups in the United States.
Given that thriving community, it’s not surprising that mouthwatering restaurants have sprouted like cornstalks across DC to serve it. Down-home Salvadoran pupuserías now dot the city, while Argentine, Peruvian, and especially Mexican cuisines stand out on menus throughout the District.
We think these 5 Latin-American and Hispanic restaurants are delicious and worth a visit on your next trip to Washington, DC. Buen provecho!
Dining at Oyamel in Washington’s Penn Quarter is like stepping into a big Mexican fiesta. Brilliant orange marigolds (a symbol of Day of the Dead festivities) drape the ceiling. Intricate ceremonial masks adorn a wall. Colorful alebrijes, or “spirit animals,” dangle from the ceiling and appear on staff shirts. Delicate butterflies, like the famous Monarchs that cover the oyamel trees in the state of Michoacán, hover in mobiles. “We pay homage to the culture,” says beverage manager Amy Mila H. “What we do is echo what is traditional in Mexico.”
That’s just what Spanish celeb chef and humanitarian José Andrés had in mind with his sombrero tip to Mexican cuisine at Oyamel, inspired by his travels to Michoacán. The menu is organized tapas-style, inviting diners to sample and share small plates.
Nine destination-worthy tacos on handmade tortillas (pictured above) include creamy masa-battered fish, spicy chicken with refried beans, and Yucatán-style cochinita pibil (pit-barbecued pig). Step out of your comfort zone with tacos chapulines, featuring salt-cured sautéed grasshoppers, a tasty, crunchy zinger straight from Oaxaca. Among DC’s Mexican restaurants, Oyamel pioneered grinding its own Mexican heirloom corn in-house. “There’s a mother and daughter making the purple corn tortillas from scratch,” says Mila H. “It’s a labor of love.”
Ceviche also plays a starring role. Five marinated chile-spiced ceviches—from striped bass to aji tuna to shrimp—compete with a popular specialty, quesadilla huitlacoche, which showcases corn truffles, a Mexican delicacy. The guacamole, made to order at a guac station (pictured above), is elevated with a signature sprinkle of salty queso fresco.
Add in one of the best agave-based spirit collections on the East Coast, and it’s clear why Oyamel has been a hit since it arrived in 2004.
Oyamel: 401 7th Street NW; 202/628-1005
Metro: Gallery Pl-Chinatown
Decor sets an atmospherically Latin scene at Seven Reasons, a celebration of flavors from Mexico to Argentina inspired by acclaimed chef Enrique Limardo’s native Venezuela. Indeed, the Venezuelan landscape is the inspiration for surfaces covered in lush vegetation (representing the Amazon rainforest), ivy-covered red bricks (representing country houses), and mossy stone (representing Venezuela’s tepui tabletop mesas). A 15-seat bar made of translucent, illuminated marble glows as the room’s dining centerpiece.
“All dishes combine all the taste sensations, but always in balance,” says general director Nacho Useche. Take the red snapper ceviche, a classic Peruvian dish that boasts a tart citrus marinade, crispy quinoa, a rim of purple sweet potato puree, and a thick covering of coconut leche de tigre (tiger’s milk) foam. It’s a mouth-tingling explosion of tart, sweet, crunchy, creamy and airy—all at once.
Showcasing ingredients from throughout Latin America, Chef Limardo’s other dishes are just as complex and multi-layered. Crispy pork belly comes with blackened sweet plantain wrapped around Chihuahua cheese, ajicero salsa, Venezuelan avocado-based guasacaca sauce and congri rice. And perfectly grilled duck slices (pictured above) are married with heart of palm, roasted squash purée, sweet and sour beet syrup, crispy potato roll, onion purée encased in caramelized red onion and torched avocado—a burst of contrasting flavors and textures.
Such novel creations transport diners on an innovative culinary journey of Latin America for both lunch and dinner.
Seven Reasons: 931 H St NW; 202/417-8563
Metro: Gallery Pl-Chinatown or Metro Center
Taking center stage at dLeña is a wood-burning hearth that pays homage to the open-fire traditional cooking techniques of Mexico. Derived from the Spanish word leña, or firewood, dLeña celebrates the pungent smokiness that flavors such wood-fired dishes as mezcal-flambéed tomahawk steak, aged boneless rib-eye, and grilled jumbo prawns awash in smoked chili marinade and diablo chipotle sauce. The dark-beamed, candlelit décor (pictured above) enhances the moody atmosphere of this stylish dining room.
Star restaurateur Richard Sandoval, who grew up in Mexico City helping his grandmother cook, blends traditional flavors with global ingredients and modern techniques in what he calls "old ways, new hands." His inventive menu showcases a mix of Mexican, Spanish and South American dishes, including specialties like Wagyu empanadas, crab guacamole, and Mexican gazpacho.
The presentations are as luscious as the flavors. Bubbling hot queso fundido, an addictive blend of Chihuahuan and Oaxacan cheese, sits atop a plank accompanied by three dipping sauces and mini blue-corn tortillas wrapped in newsprint, rustic-style. Tuna guacamole, enhanced with chile de árbol salsa-macha, jicama salad, and chipotle mayo, is nestled amid thick Oaxacan tlayuda (shelled corn) chips and a charred tostada that stands bolt upright. And the Argentine milhojas (pictured above) is a gorgeous confection of layered crêpes, caramelized almond, whipped cream, and salted caramel ice cream drenched tableside in warm cajeta caramel sauce. It’s an unforgettable way to end a meal.
After dinner, you can head downstairs for a nightcap—there's live music most nights in its sultry mezcal lounge.
dLeña: 476 K Street NW, Suite D; 202/560-5999
Metro: Gallery Pl-Chinatown or Mt Vernon Sq 7th St-Convention Center
If El Secreto de Rosita resembles a relative’s cozy, comfy parlor, that’s exactly what owner Mauricio Fraga-Rosenfeld had in mind. Inspired by the Ecuadorian hacienda where he was raised by his beloved grandmother, Rosita, it’s a greenery-festooned jumble of family memorabilia—photos, paintings, embroidered lampshades—as well as period furnishings such as velvet-covered chairs and an elaborate crystal chandelier, all intended to make diners feel at home. “This is like our house,” says Mauricio’s son and restaurant manager Gabriel Fraga-Abaza.
Located in a former fire station built in 1893, El Secreto now has snug nooks that make for intimate settings for dinners prepared by Colombian Chef Cristian Granada. His menu takes its cue from modern Peruvian and pan-Latin cuisine, or what Fraga-Abaza calls “Peruvian essence and Andean heart.”
There are plenty of Peruvian classics, like ají de gallina, shredded chicken in a rich, creamy ají amarillo sauce (pictured above). Another hearty comfort dish, sweet and tangy arroz con mariscos (rice and seafood) gets its kick from panca, a Peruvian chile pepper. And in a novel twist, you can craft your own ceviche by choosing from shrimp, corvina, flounder, mixed seafood, or catch of the day to be bathed in your choice of four leche de tigre marinades. Served with the classic sweet potato and large-kernel field corn (for a delightful crunch), it’s nevertheless “more Ecuadorian than Peruvian because it has more sauce,” says Fraga-Abaza. Call it a cross-Andean success.
El Secreto de Rosita: 1624 U Street NW; 202/234 8400
Metro: U Street/African-Amer Civil War Memorial/Cardozo
Don’t let the contemporary simplicity of this 22-seat restaurant (pictured above) deceive you. Causa is star Peruvian Chef Carlos Delgado’s layered, eye-popping, taste-tingling valentine to his native land. His fish-centric 6-course tasting menu is a bold, innovative take on modern Nikkei-Peruvian fare, that complex fusion of Japanese and Peruvian cuisines that has helped put modern Peru on the international culinary map.
Presentation here is as important as taste. Each dish on its prix fixe menu is a show-stopping work of art, some arranged on pebbles, shells, or wood shavings, others balanced atop porcelain holders or stone slabs, still others crowned with edible flowers. (An appetizer sampler is pictured below.) What’s more, you can watch them come skillfully to life in the open kitchen.
The tasting menu showcases an ocean’s worth of seafood: black cod, eel, ocean trout, octopus, salmon roe, scallops, sea urchin, squid and tuna—much of it appearing in the mixed Nikkei ceviche. Like the ceviche, many dishes deliver a salty, tangy, pungent flavor blast. Take the dry-aged miso-marinaded black cod, garnished with pureed sunchokes, crumbled chips, pickled piquillo pepper, and whisper-thin black garlic tuile. Meat takes a turn, too, as a Wagyu beef bite-sized sampler grilled on charcoal.
You can supplement the prix fixe tasting menu with whole fish from Causa’s “fish market” that’s on display in glass cases as you enter the restaurant. It’s available in various cold and hot preparations, including classic tiradito, or sashimi, style. Most of the fish lands right on your plate straight from Tokyo’s famed fish market within 24 hours.
Polish off the meal with a dessert of chocolate-like Amazonian macambo, passion fruit, mango, Peruvian black mint, matcha tea and dollop of Petrossian caviar, a flavor combo as delicious as it is surprising, like all of Delgado’s creations.
Upstairs from Causa is Delgado’s Amazonia, his ode to the exotic flavors of Peru’s rainforest and one of the first Amazonian restaurants in the U.S. An open-air rooftop bar and casual à la carte hangout, Amazonia specializes in an extensive collection of piscos, Peru’s national drink, as well as small plates for sharing.
“I wanted to bring Peru to DC,” says Chef Delgado of his mission. Has he ever.
Causa and Amazonia: 920 Blagden Alley NW; 202/629-3942
Metro: Mt Vernon Sq 7th St-Convention Center