The state of Maine is increasingly hyping its new Maine Maritime Heritage Trail (www.maritimemaine.org), a made-up travel route along the state's entire looooong coastline -- which is even longer if you uncrinkled it and drove each tiny peninsula. Perhaps modeled along the coastal trails of Nova Scotia or the (much shorter) Freedom Trail down in Boston, this route takes intrepid travelers -- should they choose to accept their mission -- from Kittery to Lubec and anywhere in between, with recommended museums, eateries, shopping stops, and so forth along the way. It doesn't cover all of our favorite spots (purchase Frommer's Maine Coast to get that), but it does serve as a basic starter kit.
The Southern Maine Coast
As though further proof were necessary -- and it's not -- the White Barn Inn's restaurant in Kennebunk (tel. 207/967-2321; www.whitebarninn.com) was rated five stars in the latest edition of the Mobil Travel Guide. Chef Jonathan Cartwright's restaurant was one of only 15 restaurants in the entire U.S. to receive the guide's highest ranking, alongside such cream-of-the-crop establishments as Jean Georges and Alain Ducasse in New York City, Charlie Trotter's in Chicago, The Inn at Little Washington in Virginia, and French Laundry in California's Napa Valley.
Freeport to Monhegan Island
Jessica Gorton has opened the Sweet Leaves Teahouse (22 Pleasant St., Brunswick; tel. 207/725-1326; www.sweetleaves.com), a welcome addition to Brunswick's downtown scene. Feast on cheese plates, panini, great salads, hangar steaks (dinnertime only), tea cakes, gourmet yogurt, upscale root beer floats, or cupcakes sided with chai ice cream. Of course, the selection of black, green, white, and herbal teas is extensive (and staff is knowledgeable about all of them). The establishment also serves beer and wine.
Solo Bistro (128 Front St., Bath; tel. 207/443-3373; www.solobistro.com) is another good addition to the Bath-Brunswick area. Right on the city's main drag, this is a bistro/jazz club (live music Friday nights only, so far), with dinners of burgers, seared fish and seafood, lamb stews, and risotto. Lunch runs more to upscale salads and sandwiches, and desserts are well thought-out. The décor here is cooler than cool, including minimalist, brightly colored chairs; Scandinavian birch tabletops; and the space's native, rough-hewn stone walls. Interestingly, the husband-and-wife owners also own a Danish design shop right next door.
Midcoast Maine
Elan Fine Arts (tel. 207/236-4401; www.elanfinearts.com), a gallery that hosts a growing stable of Maine and Maine-associated artists, has relocated to a very convenient location in the artsy town of Rockport. It is now located at 86 Pascal Ave., inside a former church across the street from Harbor Park, and just down the street from the well-respected Center for Maine Contemporary Art gallery.
Cedarholm Garden Bay Inn in Lincolnville (tel. 207/236-3886 or 1/800-540-3886; www.cedarholm.com) just north of Camden, continues updating and upgrading. While the six cottages at this property do not have kitchens, all have wet bars and miniature or full-sized refrigerators. The oldest units were recently refurbished, and the four newest (waterside) cottages remain lovely. The acres of grounds and perennial gardens are frequently remarked upon by guests. Rates now range from $195 to $495 per night, and children over age 15 are also welcome.
Mount Desert Island & Acadia National Park
Due to the ongoing nesting of peregrine falcons, some of our recommended hiking trails on Mount Desert Island are periodically being closed to the public. To protect the nesting birds from accidentally being disturbed by hikers, certain trails in the Jordan Cliff area are sometimes closed to all visitor activity. These closures include trails leading up Jordan Cliff on Penobscot Mountain, as well as the northern section of Flying Mountain Trail on St. Sauveur Mountain. Though these trails are some of our favorites, the birds have to come first: Mount Desert's falcons form the backbone of Maine's falcon recovery program. Affected trails are always clearly marked with signs that will identify the reason for the closure, the dates of closure, and maps of closed areas. The trails are always re-opened whenever park rangers have determined that the birds are out of danger and won't be adversely affected by hikers.
The Spa at the Bar Harbor Club (www.barharborclub.com) will open its doors in July of 2007, with nearly 2,000-square-feet of spa space tucked away in the historic former social club. Adjacent to the Harborside Hotel in downtown Bar Harbor (by which it is owned), the spa will provide professional treatments ranging from touch therapies using aromas and essential oils to facial services, polishes, manicures, pedicures, and body scrubs. One highlight will include a marine algae wrap with menthol -- good for the post-hiking aches, staffers claim.
Redbird Provisions (tel. 207/276-3006; www.redbirdprovisions.com) has opened in a renovated cottage at 11 Sea St. in Northeast Harbor. The restaurant serves lunch and dinner six days a week (closed Sundays). Chef Jesse Perrin trained in Boston at such prestigious eateries as No. 9 Park and Blue Ginger before venturing up-coast and down east. Expect dishes with Asian and Italian accents, such as shrimp ceviche with house-made cumin crackers. Picnic cuisine (pre-cooked) will also be available for takeout.
The day spa Bella Skin and Body Boutique (tel. 207/276-3638; www.bellaskinandbody.com), offering hair styling and coloring, facials, body treatments, and Ayurvedic treatments, has opened next door to Redbird.
The Downeast Coast
We've uncovered a chocolate shop that must be the easternmost confectionery in America. Eugene Greenlaw's Bayside Chocolates (37 Water St., Lubec; tel. 888/816-8880 or 207-733-8880; www.baysidechocolates.com),is a Maine operation through and through: it sports a full range of Needhams, an only-in-Maine treat of chocolate-covered coconut. They also offer peanut butter cups, bonbons, and truffles. And, yes, they do ship anywhere in the U.S.
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