Where's Johnny Jet: Sunning, Swimming & Eating in Sardinia

Buon giorno from Italy! Last week we left off in London, after taking an amazing flight over the pond with Eos Airlines (here's the link to the archives). This week we continue to live the high life as we visit one of the world's most exclusive summer playgrounds: Costa Smeralda. If you're interested in learning about this special part of the coast on the island of Sardegna, then andiamo ("let's go" in Italian)!

Sardegna

Americans call the second largest island in the Mediterranean Sea "Sardinia." Sardinians call it Sardigna or Sardinna. I'll stick with my Italian heritage and call it what other Italians do: Sardegna. Sardegna is located 115 miles west of the Italian mainland (see map) and has a population of 1,680,000. This mountainous island (the highest point is 6,017 feet) is much larger than I ever imagined -- roughly 160 miles long and 68 miles wide (9,301 square miles). The capital, Cagliari, is located on the southern part of the island. But I flew into Olbia, the other major airport, a 4-hour, 171-mile drive north of Cagliari.

Getting to Sardegna

Reaching Sardegna by air is not as expensive as it used to be, thanks to low-fare carriers. There are no non-stop flights from the U.S., however, so you have to connect. Instead of buying a direct ticket on a major carrier to Sardegna, look into breaking up your trip with a stopover either in London or Cologne, Germany (both are served by budget airlines). By flying into London and purchasing a separate ticket on easyJet (one of Europe's most popular low-fare carriers) I saved over $1,000! Tip: Make sure to leave plenty of time between flights (preferably a day), because most low-fare carriers depart out of alternate airports. Fortunately, one-way tickets to Oblia or Cagliari can be as low as $40. If you prefer surface routes, a few ferry companies (listed in our resource section) offer crossings from some of Italy's major port towns. Ferries take between 4 and 9 hours. The shortest distance is from Civitavecchia, an hour from Rome. Prices vary depending on class and type of boat; the lowest usually start at $30 each way, but specials can drop them even lower.

My Friend's Villa

I was in Sardegna for my August vacation visiting my friend Anabel's villa. It's her family's summer residence, and the place is unreal. The terra cotta-roof structure is located on shores of Costa Smeralda, 30 minutes north of Olbia. When I pulled up to the gated stone driveway I knew the place would be special, but I had no idea how unbelievable it really is. It's located near the swanky Romazzino hotel (over $1,000 a night in the summer), where stars are often photographed relaxing on the sandy beach, swimming in the crystal blue water or strolling along the dock. Romazzino means "rosemary" in Sardinna dialect, and plenty of those plants can be found. We were fortunate to go to the Romazzino hotel for cocktails and their fantastic buffet dinner that includes lobster, pasta and hot soufflés. The patio where guests drink and dine has a view that makes you want to sing "That's Amore." Waiters at the Romazzino (and other fine hotels) are all dressed meticulously; they're not college kids or immigrants working for the summer. These men are 100% Italian, and as professional as it gets. Hotel Romazzino, Porto Cervo, Costa Smeralda, Italy; tel. 39-0789-977111.

Lazy Summer Days

The villa's backyard has a water view that makes you want to stare out all day long. When we weren't mesmerized, we went out on one of the family's boats. In the morning we waterskied; in the early afternoon we cruised around the harbor watching mega-ships (this is where Bill Gates and all those ridiculously rich and powerful people holiday). Some boats are 300 feet long and cost $150 million -- is that sick or what? We were out on "just" a 71 -foot Sea Ray that was unbelievably plush. It came complete with a deckhand and chef. The one day we wanted to take it to Corsica (France's neighboring island), it was too rough to cross the Strait of Bonifacio. Instead we settled for Bodelli Beach, located in a little cove between Corsica and Sardegna that is part of a national park. This place was magnifico. Were it not for the red jellyfish, I'd still be swimming there.

Porto Cervo

On the day the weather did not cooperate, we went (like everyone else) to Porto Cervo to gawk at all the monster ships and stroll around the expensive shops.

Dining

Most restaurants in Costa Smeralda are outrageously expensive. They're also outrageously delicious (Giovanni's is the best), but in Italy you don't have to pay a lot for good food. However, in Costa Smeralda those places are difficult for tourists to find because they are off the beaten path. One such place is La Vecchia Costa (tel. 39-07899-8688). It's inland, and is known as the best pizza place in the area. It's also the cheapest (a margharita cost just 3.50€ or about $4.50), which is why you'll find a line of locals out the door. La Vecchia Costa also serves Terre Brune Carignano del Sulcis, Sardegna's best wine -- which can only be found on the island -- for just 29€ ($37).

Café Spinnaker

Another reasonable restaurant that does not require a lot of driving is Café Spinnaker. They too have excellent pizza and gelato. Café Spinnaker, Res. Alba Ruja -- Liscia di Vacca -- 07020 Porto Cervo; tel. 39-0789-91226.

Hotel Cala di Volpe

The 125-room Hotel Cala di Volpe is regarded as the best hotel in Costa Smeralda, and possibly all of Europe. In 2005 Condé Nast Traveler magazine listed it as "One of the World's Best Places to Stay in Europe." Be sure to have plenty of credit left on your card, because this place costs well over $1,000 a night in the high season. Pulling up to the hotel with its traditional architecture and colored tiles, you feel like you're visiting a charming fishing village. If you can't manage to find a vacancy, at least have drinks on the patio overlooking Cala di Volpe Bay. When we were there we watched them set up an incredible ($1,000 a person) dinner buffet, at which Enrique Inglese performed by the Olympic-size saltwater swimming pool. Hotel Cala di Volpe, Costa Smeralda, Porto Cervo 07020; tel. 39-0789-976111.

Ciao, Sardegna!

Sunny summer days in Sardegna makes people lazy -- at least, it did for me and everyone I came across. All anyone wanted to do was relax, drink, eat delicious food and swim in the warm blue Tyrrhenian Sea. What a way to spend your vacation.

HLX to Cologne

Rather than fly back to London, I took Olbia's other low-fare carrier HLX (Hapag-Lloyd Express), which serves Cologne, Germany. Checking in with HLX could not have been any easier, and going through security could have not been quicker. There was no line, and no one made me take my shoes off or my computer out of my bag. Instead of purchasing drinks and food on the plane, I bought a delicious mozzarella and tomato panini in the airport for $3. HLX does not assign seating, so Anabel and I had to check in early to get early boarding cards. It turned out that didn't matter, because they loaded every passenger on two buses that departed and arrived at the same time. The ones who boarded last were the first to get off the buses and onto the plane, but it didn't matter because Anabel and I still found seats together on the 737-800 series plane. Flight time was only 1 hour and 40 minutes, and because we came from an EU country I didn't have to go through customs.

International Cellphone

Many people ask me what phone service I use when I am abroad. When I travel I always bring my international (GSM ) cellular phone with me. Most U.S. cellphone companies don't even have GSM tri-band phones, and the ones that do (T-Mobile) charge way too much for incoming and outgoing calls. Instead of paying their high rates, save money and get your own GSM phone. It's not expensive, and there are a couple of options (renting is one). But before I leave the country I get the local SIM chip (Subscriber Information Module) for the place I'm headed to. The SIM chip gets inserted into the phone, and serves as the brain (it contains such information as the cellphone number, voice mail and call logs). The SIM gives me a local number, so no one needs to dial long distance. Best of all, when my friends and family back home call, it's free. That's right: All incoming calls are free in most countries! Another huge plus is that when I call them, it costs me at least half what a U.S. cell company would charge. Of course, I travel with my laptop, and try to use Skype (more info on Skype) as much as possible. Still, it's nice to be able to access home just a phone call away wherever I am. A number of cell companies provide these phones, but I use Cellular Abroad. I wholeheartedly recommend them -- and even talked them into offering a $10 discount to all Johnnyjet.com visitors. Be sure to mention Johnny Jet when ordering over the phone (1-800/287-3020) or online (Cellularabroad.com).

Video

Here's a 2-minute Johnny Jet Video of my incredible vacation to Sardegna. To view past videos, here's a link of all JohnnyJet Videos ever made. With high-speed the video takes about 1 minute to load; with dial-up, it could be 3 weeks.

Next Week

Germany. Stay tuned.

Happy Travels,

Johnny Jet

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John E. DiScala (aka Johnny Jet), is the founder of www.johnnyjet.com, the ultimate travel website and weekly newsletter. He logs over 150,000 miles a year, has been featured in over 400 articles (including Frommers.com, USA Today, Time, Fortune, the New York Times, CNBC and MSNBC), and has published the book, You Are Here Traveling With JohnnyJet.com.

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