Summer Heats up the South American Riviera

Sometimes less is more, and certainly when it comes to a small country like Uruguay, the fact that so little is written about it and few Americans seem to visit, may in fact be one of the best reasons to go. I traveled through the country a few years ago and I was surprised by how little I knew about the destination and how charming it really was.

Uruguay's most famous waterfront area, Punta del Este, is a beach resort that transforms from sleepy seaside town to bustling celebrity hot spot during the months of December and January each year (February and March are also great weather-wise, plus hotel prices come down considerably). Punta, as it is affectionately referred to, is the summer home away from home for residents of Montevideo (an hour and a half away by car) and other South Americans, particularly Porteños (Buenos Aires locals) who leave behind their urban landscape for a 45-minute plane ride and a dose of sun and sand for weekends or extended stays.

It's not quite a Hamptons, Malibu or South Beach (and maybe thankfully so) but Punta has pristine white sand beaches, some excellent restaurants, a few wild and rowdy nightclubs and dozens of bars to keep you well watered. Socially it is also highly appealing, from rubbing shoulders with handsome polo players to people watching the bikini-clad women.

There are definitely ritzy places to stay here, although in general you will notice that many people stay in private apartments and vacation condos. There are some reasonable accommodation options too, and most are within close proximity of Punta's famed beaches.

La Posta del Cangrejo (tel. +598/4277-0021; www.lapostadelcangrejo.com) is a cute hotel located in La Barra, a short drive along the coast east from Punta, and although it is oceanfront, you will probably prefer to hit the sands on one of the main beaches in Punta proper. Prices vary hugely depending on when you stay, with winter rates as low as $100 per room per night -- but even in summer, this hotel can be quite reasonable. Stays during the month of February start from $150 in a double garden view room or $200 in an ocean view room. For mid-week stays, except during the summer peak months (December to February), pay for three nights and receive the fourth night free. Or pay for any five nights and receive two nights free.

Hotel Camelot (tel. +598/4248-2006; www.hotelcamelot.biz) located in Avda (a few short blocks away from beaches -- Playa Mansa and Playa Brava on either side of the main Peninsula of Punta) looks more like a 1970's large house than a hotel but its central position, swimming pool and low prices make it an interesting option. Rates during the month February start from $72 per night for a double room with breakfast.

Hotel Jamaica (tel. +598/4248-2225; www.hotel-jamaica.com) is another budget option located only 100 yards away from Playa Brava. February rates start from $104 a double per night including breakfast or $146 for a room with a Jacuzzi.

The San Marcos Hotel (tel. +598/4248-2251; www.hotelsanmarcos.com) located about 200 yards from Playa Brava is priced from $101 per night for a double room with breakfast in late February 2007.

A helpful website to visit to compare accommodation options by star rating, price and locations is Interhabit (www.interhabit.com/punta_del_este). Prices are in U.S. dollars so you don't even have to do currency conversions. To be honest you will probably spend so little time in your room, that luxury can easily be forgone for convenience, cleanliness and a low price. Carnaval will be celebrated in Punta del Este from February 16 to 20 in 2007, so most hotels will enforce a four-night minimum stay during that week.

Getting there is relatively easy. U.S. citizens don't need a visa for stays of three months or less (I was less fortunate as an Australian and had to line up for hours at the consulate in Buenos Aires to obtain a tourist visa). Regular ferry services from Buquebus connect Buenos Aires to Uruguay's quaint capital city Montevideo, Piriápolis or Colonia and then buses will connect you to Punta del Este. One-way ferry plus bus tickets are priced from $49 but the trip takes up to five hours. Alternatively you can fly with several flights per day between Punta and Buenos Aires on Pluna Airlines (www.pluna.com.uy) and Aerolineas Argentinas (www.aerolineas.com). Summer round-trip airfares on either airline range from approximately $200 to $250 including taxes. From the U.S., American Airlines (www.aa.com) offers non-stop flights from Miami to Montevideo with mid-week summer (that's their summer) prices (February 2007) starting at less than $900 including taxes and fees ($1,060 from New York via Miami). You can also fly from the U.S. into Punta del Este but all flights make at least one stop in Buenos Aires and what makes it especially complicated is that you have to change airports (about a 45-minute trip) in order to catch the Buenos Aires to Punta sector. Airfares for this route flying LAN Argentina (www.lan.com) start from approximately $1,238 including taxes in February 2007.

Final note: If you are taking the ferry over from Argentina to Uruguay, you should definitely take some time to discover Montevideo. I found this city to be very hospitable, pretty and distinctly European in nature. Prices were low, the food was excellent and it is small enough to cover most main areas on foot.

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