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Where's Johnny Jet? Checking in on Cancun
JohnnyJet.com February 8, 2007 Key: Bold links open pictures in a separate browser window, while regular hyperlinks open websites. Buenos dias from Mexico. This week we travel to a destination where over three million Americans travel to each year: Cancún. I was invited on a special trip for Club Med's re-opening party after Hurricane Wilma devastated the region a year and a half ago. You'll be impressed to see how our southern neighbors have made limeade out of limón. If you want to see the new, improved Cancún, bring your bathing suit and dancing shoes -- it's party time. Miami Airport Last week we left off in Coconut Grove, Florida. My taxi driver dropped me off at Concourse C, underneath the American Airlines sign for passengers bound for Canada, Ecuador, Haiti and Mexico. TIP: Miami International Airport is huge. If you're flying American Airlines -- the primary carrier -- be sure to tell your driver where you're flying to, so he can drop you off at the right spot. American's check-in line for economy class moved much faster than the first class/elite AAdvantage members' line. I moved over as soon as I realized this. It should be the other way around, but I'm just giving all you elite flyers the heads-up. At security, the TSA here makes most passengers step into new puffer machines. They're really loud, as they quickly blow air on you to check for explosives. Once I cleared, it was time to get food. I was starving, and knew I would not get a meal on the plane. There were only a few choices, so I settled for a $5.85 hot Cuban sandwich (roast pork, ham, cheese and pickles) for breakfast.Cancún Airport Flight time to Cancún was only an hour and 20 minutes -- who knew Cancún was so close? To expedite the Mexican immigration process, be sure to fill out the bottom of the passport/customs form that everyone seems to leave blank. I saw so many passengers not allowed in the immigration line until the entire form was filled out -- talk about wasting valuable beach time. After getting checked baggage, there's one more hurdle: customs. Here a Mexican official points to a button linked to a street light, which randomly decides if your belongings will be searched. It's almost like a game. I breathed a huge sigh of relief when the green "pase" light illuminated. Si.Getting Around If you're getting picked up by your hotel, just keep walking. Ignore the screaming salespeople behind the Tours Information or Travel Advisors booths. And if you don't need help with baggage, just say "no gracias" in stride to the army of blue-shirted porters. I walked all the way until I saw a man holding up a Club Med sign. After checking in with him, your vacation officially begins. For starters, they hand you a cold towel and bottle of water from a cooler. Then it's a 15-minute ride to the resort. If you stay at a different hotel, a taxi costs around $20. Shuttle vans are $9. I don't recommend renting a car because traffic is bad, parking is expensive, and if you want to see Mayan ruins the hotels have daily excursions. If you want to go into town, a bus operates frequently for just 7 pesos (65 cents). TIP: The driver will make change, but you need to pay in pesos. The exchange rate is currently US$1 to 10.95 pesos (it's easiest just to divide all prices by 10). Most people and stores take US dollars, but some give change in pesos. If you stay at Club Med, you don't even need to change money. I didn't.Cancún Cancún is located at the southernmost tip of Mexico's Yucatán Peninsula, in the state of Quintana Roo. Cancún is 131 miles west of Cuba, and 640 miles south of New Orleans. It is divided into two sections. The Zona Hotelera (Hotel Zone) is on a 17-mile-long island, on which hotels are piled almost on top of each other. El Centro (Cancún City/Downtown) is where most of the Mexicans live. In 1976 Cancún had 18,000 residents. Today there are about 500,000. Eight and a half million visitors pass through each year.After the Hurricane In October 2005 Hurricane Wilma destroyed 95 per cent of this sunny Caribbean coast. The 145-m.p.h. winds of this Class 4 hurricane sat atop this area for three days. Amazingly no one died, but the hotels were totaled and the east-facing beaches washed away. Wilma caused hundreds of millions of dollars in damage, but the Mexican government made sure Cancún bounced back quickly. After all, it brings in a third of Mexican tourist revenue, amounting to 15 per cent of Mexico's total revenue. Apart from the few trees you see down driving from the airport, it is difficult to know there was a catastrophe. The beaches have been replenished with more than three million tons of sand, which in some areas doubled the beach size. The area's 100 hotels (totaling over 26,000 rooms) took advantage of the opportunity to remodel and upgrade their facilities.Now Cancún is better than ever. It's more sophisticated and more luxurious. It looks like college partiers might get the shaft, though, because hotels now cater more toward convention-goers and high-end travelers. I heard that a Belgian dredging company was brought in to pump sand off the ocean floor to restore the beaches. Unfortunately, in many places the composition of the sand has changed. It's not the soft, powdery stuff it used to be. Instead it's grainy, with shell fragments and broken coral. Ouch. Club Med's New Philosophy Hurricane Wilma not only changed Club Med Cancún Yucatán's appearance; it actually changed the philosophy of the entire company. Club Med has decided to shed its party reputation, and go from adult-only to family-friendly. Talk about a 180-degree turn. That's why this re-opening party, with a weekend-long shindig for all the bigwigs and many VIPs (including the French ambassador to Mexico). Club Med even flew in the Moscow Circus, for private performances during and after the party.Club Med was the very first hotel built in Cancún (1976). That explains why they have the best piece of property. Their 22 acres are located away from hotel row, so there are no hotels hovering nearby. Another huge plus is that the beach is protected by a breakwater, so the sand there is still the nice, fluffy kind. GOs For the event I was allowed to bring a guest. I don't have a girlfriend, so I decided to bring my sister Carol. She needed a vacation from chasing her kids around; besides, she's a lot of fun to travel with. When our van pulled up the driveway, a mariachi band dressed in traditional white outfits welcomed us. Inside the colorful pink lobby an army of young, beautiful GOs greeted us with more refreshing towels, and a drink. (GO is the name for Club Med workers. It is short for gentils organisateurs.) Their ages range from about 18 to 45, but most are in their early 20s. After getting to know a few of them, and learning about their jobs (including that they eat all their meals in the main dining room with guests, and they switch among Club Med's 80 resorts every six months to keep fresh), I can't imagine a better job right out of college. I wish I had done it for a few years. Most of Cancún's 130 GOs speak several languages. You can find out who speaks what by checking out the flags on their badges. The upper left flag indicates the country they're from; the others depict the languages they speak. These guys and gals come from all over the world. To be a GO, you definitely have to be a "people person." From the looks of them; you also must be beautiful. In the old days GOs were encouraged to fool around with guests. That's not the case any more (though it is allowed -- or so I hear). Guests are referred to as GMs gentils members, while the general manager is called the "Chef de Village." Club Med Cancún Yucatán After check-in we were off to our rooms. On the way there I was mesmerized by the vibrant, warm (76-81 degrees Fahrenheit -- year-round) blue water, and bright white soft sand. I could hardly wait to change into my bathing suit and jump in. When I passed all the beautiful women in their bikinis, I picked up the pace.Rooms There are 384 rooms and 18 suites, in several buildings. I did not expect much, after hearing from a friend that Club Med's rooms are just a step above college dorms. Fortunately, that's no longer the case, as you'll quickly notice at your door: You don't need to physically stick the key card in the door, just wave it in front of the handle. When I opened the door I was shocked at how plush they were. All the rooms have been enlarged and redesigned. They are now colorful and spacious, with new bedding, a flat screen TV, air conditioning, telephone, clock/radio, mini-bar, a safe, toiletries, and a balcony or terrace. There's also a desk. If you bring an ethernet cord you can plug it into the wall for free high-speed access. To get high-speed otherwise, you have to schlep your laptop to the lobby.Jade Villa Suites If you splurge a few extra hundred dollars a night for one of the 18 suites, amenities include private car transfer, welcome bottle of tequila, fresh flowers, in-room computer, free mini-bar, room service and free laundry.Dining There are three restaurants four bar/lounges in the Club Med village. Club Med is all-inclusive, so all food and drinks (including alcohol) are well, included. This counts for the night club too -- except for some luxury spirits and premium brands. With the all-inclusive policy you would think the cuisine would not be too good, but that's not true at all. The food is tasty, and there's something for everyone. I ate all my meals in La Hacienda (the main dining restaurant), where six differently designed rooms -- each with the atmosphere of a colonial-style manor house -- are centered around a large buffet with a variety of food stations. There are many different breakfast, lunch and dinner choices. There's a bread station, fresh fruit, made-to-order eggs and omelets, cereal, pancakes, salad bar, pasta bar, pizza, hamburgers, turkey, seafood, frog legs you name it. There are vegetarian dishes, healthy options, and the total opposite. My favorites were the Mexican dishes -- and don't even get me started on the desserts, which were ridiculously good. Of course, I had to sample all of them.Kids' Programs Kids will definitely dig the cooking because they offer hamburgers, pizza, french fries, and everything else kids love. There is even baby chow available 24 hours a day in the main restaurant (along with baby chairs, baby bottle warmers and a microwave). Over 100 rooms have connecting doors, so families can stay together. Guests with babies get priority for a ground floor room, which can be baby-proofed for free. Inside will be a crib, baby bathtub and baby toilet. Baby strollers are also included in the price. Babysitting is $15 for the first four hours, and $10 an hour thereafter. Kids' programs are free, and there's a new mini-club for 4-to-10-year-olds. The hours are 9 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. After a 90-minute break it starts up again, from 7 to 9 p.m. A junior program for 11-to-17-year-olds makes it easy for them to find friends. They can partake in all resort activities including discovery trips to archeological sites.Activities I enjoy staying at a Club Med because there's so much to do. Activities include basketball, beach volleyball, kayaking, snorkeling, tennis, wakeboarding, water-skiing (watch out for alligators in the bay), sailing, windsurfing, dance class, petanque (lawn bowling), table tennis, billiards, and the circus (more on that in a minute). There's also a state-of-the-art weight room and fitness studio, offering daily yoga and Pilates classes. If you want more, fishing, golfing, horseback riding, four-wheeling, parasailing and jet skiing can all be arranged for a fee (they take place outside the Club Med property).The Circus The resort has eight hard surface tennis courts. To work off all the delicious grub Carol and I challenged new Brazilian friends we met at the pool bar to a game. They couldn't have been nicer or more beautiful, but we beat them. (We come from a competitive family.) The highlight of my trip was the circus. I was sitting on my balcony when I saw people across the lagoon swinging on a trapeze. I have always wanted to try that, even though I'm afraid of heights. I walked over to find out how to sign up for the course -- and the next thing I knew a GO was putting a safety belt around my waist. After two minutes of instruction, I was climbing a narrow 25-foot ladder. It was nerve-racking, to say the least. Stepping over to the platform was even more terrifying. I could hardly keep my knees from shaking. I told myself I couldn't do it -- not even the second step, which is hanging by your knees. But the five GOs running the show were so nice and supportive that they helped me (and everyone else) conquer our fears. I tried again. I was able to lock my knees, then do a flip off the trapeze. The goal was to "make the catch," which entailed swinging from one bar to another. The circus brought out the kid in me. Be sure to watch the video below, to see if I was able to make the elusive catch.Mayan Ruins You can't go to the "Mayan Riviera" for your first time and not see a Mayan ruin. The most famous is Chichen Itza, but it's 149 miles away from Cancún. Tulum is probably the second most popular. It's supposed to be amazing, because it's on the water, but it is 80 miles away. I chose El Meco. One reason is because it's only a 45 minute drive; another is that Club Med offers a free excursion there to all guests.Kukulcan Avenue If it wasn't for the traffic along 17-mile long Kukulcan Avenue (through the hotel zone), we would have been there in half the time. But I'm glad we took that route, because I got to see this tourist mecca firsthand. There's a Hard Rock Cafe, practically every U.S. chain restaurant ever created, a luxurious mall, and one hotel after another. It was pretty cheesy. In fact, the only thing I liked was the 6,000 trees the city just finished planting.El Meco El Meco is located in northern Cancún, in Mujeres Bay. It's just a short drive from the last hotel in the hotel zone. Club Med uses a very knowledgeable Belgian tour guide. He has lived in Mexico for years, and knows more about the country than many natives. He told us all about this simple structure, and how its name has nothing to do with the ruin. El Meco means "bow-legged." It is named that because a man who once owned the land was bow-legged. El Meco dates back to the 10th century. It is believed El Meco played an important communication role with Mayan sailors, because it's near the water and was used as a reference for coastal navigation. The property contains 14 structures; the main temple is the highlight. Visitors are no longer allowed to climb on it any more, which is why is one reason it's in such good condition. The entry fee for those not staying at Club Med is 30 pesos ($3). If you've got a large professional video camera, tack on another 30 pesos.Overall As you can tell from the pictures and video below, Carol and I had the best time at Club Med. I was really impressed with the resort. There are some areas for improvement -- for example, maids leave their cleaning supplies in the halls all day long, which does not look good. And when my sister called to schedule a spa appointment, she was told she needed to physically go there to reserve a spot. They don't take reservations over the phone, which I thought was bizarre. But this was opening weekend, and both problems are easily fixable. The GOs made the stay so much fun, and the trapeze crew were so supportive. When I completed "the catch" I let out a roar from within. I really felt like I achieved something. And Carol had such a good time that she's booking a return trip with her kids and I just might join them. Here's a link to Carol's take of the resort.Club Med Deal Because this place just reopened, Club Med has a special offer: book a week stay by February 23 for travel through November 2, 2007, and receive two of the seven nights free. Prices start at $1,085 per person (land only). Book by calling tel. 800/CLUBMED, visiting www.clubmed.com, or through a travel professional. There are no hidden charges, and tipping is forbidden. Don't forget: As of January 23, passengers traveling by air between Mexico and the United States are required to have a passport.Cancún Airport Last but not least: Get to the Cancún airport early especially if traveling on a Saturday. I'm talking almost three hours ahead of time. I have never seen a line as long as I did at American Airlines. Fortunately I have elite status on American, so it took me just two minutes to check in. Those who didn't stood for a looong time. Carol was on Spirit Airlines. Because they don't have many flights, it only took her a few minutes as well. But if you're on American, USAir, Continental, United or Delta and don't have elite status or are not flying first class, it's better to be safe than sorry -- get there early. Fortunately the security line was not long. I was not asked to take my shoes off, or take my laptop out. I even walked through carrying a bottle of water. That's not supposed to be allowed, but I wasn't stopped. I did purchase hot sauce at a shop. They said it was okay to carry on the plane, but that was not true. All carry-ons are hand-checked before boarding, and my goods were taken away. Be sure to pack all liquids in your checked luggage or buy them from a duty free shop where they put them in a yellow sealed bag (if you are connecting in the U.S. you will need to then place it in your checked bag when you go though U.S. customs).Next Week Next week we travel back to the U.S., then take an international flight to a country I have never been to. Here's a hint: Like the last two countries I visited, it starts with an "M."
John E. DiScala (aka Johnny Jet), is the founder of www.johnnyjet.com, the ultimate travel website and weekly newsletter. He logs over 150,000 miles a year, has been featured in over 850 articles (including Frommers.com, USA Today, Time, Fortune, the New York Times, CNBC and MSNBC), and has published the book, You Are Here Traveling With JohnnyJet.com. Talk with fellow Frommer's travelers on our Mexico Message Boards today.
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Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.
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Home > Deals & News > Where's Johnny Jet? Checking in on Cancun |
