Introduction to Aix-en-Provence

Beautiful, fountain-filled Aix-en-Provence, the region's former capital, invites you to step back in time. Vestiges of the Roman city are still visible at the Thermes Sextius spa, while Gothic cloisters can be admired at the Cathédrale St-Sauveur. Moving forward several hundred years, the Mazarin quarter's grid layout conceals sumptuous neo-classical houses whose graceful façades have long inspired writers and artists; it's a living tableau as colorful as any painting. Aix's university suffuses the city with intellectual energy -- students soak up the sun amid bustling Provencal markets and tree-shaded terraces.

Things to Do

Stroll Cours Mirabeau, where fountains ripple and cafe workers waltz between the tables where writer Emile Zola and artist Paul Cézanne once sat. Or lose yourself amid the 18th-century mansions of the Mazarin quarter, where muscular atlantes support intricate, wrought iron balconies. At his last workshop, Atelier de Cézanne, the artist's coat still hangs on the wall. Mind-bending art and architecture come together at the progressive Fondation Vasarely.

Nightlife and Entertainment

Sophistication is the name of the game in Aix, where a highbrow crowd flocks to the Grand Théâtre de Provence for top-quality classical music performances. On weekends, however, beer and cocktails rule for Aix's large student population, who colonize bars and pubs along rue de la Verrerie. This narrow, cobbled street is also a jazz hotspot. At two cool clubs, Le César and Le Scat Club, homegrown and international musicians bebop into the wee hours.

Restaurants and Dining

Sun-ripened tomatoes, olives, peppers, almonds and herbs fresh from the surrounding Provencal hillsides are signature ingredients in Aixois cuisine. Cours Mirabeau has its fair share of belle epoque brasseries. On a balmy evening, head to Place Forum des Cardeurs for a laid-back meal taken on a restaurant terrace. Whatever you eat here, save room for Calisson d'Aix -- the city's tear-shaped almond cake, supposedly invented in 1473 by Good King René to win the affection of his inexperienced wife.

Active Pursuits

The Montagne Ste-Victoire, Aix's iconic, limestone backdrop, cries out to be explored. Hike along its stony paths to the rhythm of cicadas, past sun-baked olive groves and emerald cypress trees. The mountain inspired more than 60 of Cézanne's works, and its contrasting colors make you feel as though you're roaming through an oil painting. When you can walk no more, soak at Thermes Sextius, a natural spa in Aix's Centre Ville, which has been soothing tired muscles since the Roman days.