Restaurants

You get no points for finding a brilliant restaurant in Auckland; there are too many of them for that to be considered a feat. And a good number of them are offering world-class cuisine at very affordable prices. The predominant cuisines are ethnic and Pacific Rim, the latter being that variable trend of combining the freshest, high-quality ingredients with whatever cultural element (theoretically Pacific-based) grabs the chef's fancy. As you can imagine, the interpretations are endless.

Although there are restaurants scattered all over the city, you'll find they rub shoulders with each other in the Viaduct Basin area and along Ponsonby and Parnell roads -- still the trendiest areas and favorites with big spenders. There is also a good haul along the downtown waterfront, at Mission Bay, and in Devonport and Takapuna on the North Shore. You can take your pick from innumerable Italian/Mediterranean-style eateries with starched white tablecloths and timber floors, and fashionable California/New York-style brasseries and elegant bistros.

If you've singled out a popular favorite, it's a good idea to make reservations, especially on weekends, but in many cases you can simply stroll and choose. Tipping is perfectly in order but is not a custom anywhere in New Zealand.

A Word on Wine -- New Zealand restaurants are generally classified as licensed (to sell beer, wine, and spirits) or BYO (bring your own). Some stipulate wine only or are unlicensed.

Quick & Easy -- For fresh takeaway salads, seek out Salad Works, 30 Chancery St. (tel. 09/368-7101), where you can mix and match assorted green leaves with vegetables, fish, meat, and the dressing of your choice. There are ready-made choices if your imagination fails you. Suju, 37 Chancery St. (tel. 09/309-3006), is a terrific little soup-and-fresh-juice bar. Nearby, the London chain Wagamama, Level 2, Metropolis Building, 1 Courthouse Lane (tel. 09/359-9266), is a snazzy noodle bar offering fresh and tasty Japanese food served on long communal tables.

A Cheap Feed at the Food Halls -- If you're after a dollar-stretching fill-up, the city has plenty of food courts, where even NZ$5 to NZ$15 (US$3.55-US$11/£1.80-£5.40) will satisfy the hunger pangs. One of the most popular is in Downtown Shopping Centre, QEII Square on Quay Street. It's open Monday through Thursday from 7am to 6pm, Friday from 7am to 8pm, and Saturday and Sunday from 7am to 4pm. There is an international food boulevard at SKYCITY Metro, 291-297 Queen St., open daily from 9am until late.

Dining with a Difference -- If you're looking for something different, then Finale, 350 Karangahape Rd. (tel. 09/377-4830; www.350finale.co.nz), is for you. Help yourself to a delicious buffet and sit back for outrageous cabaret entertainment provided by the glamorous drag queen extravaganza.

Do the Hokey Pokey -- A blend of vanilla ice cream with pieces of toffee, Hokey Pokey ice cream is unique to New Zealand and was first manufactured by the Meadowgold Ice Cream Company of Papatoetoe, Auckland, in the 1940s.

In Inner City

Expensive -- Among the top dining choices in the Inner City, don't pass up White, in the Hilton (tel. 09/978-2000). It's a superb dining experience for all the senses -- predictably, the decor is all white and the sea views amazing. Otto's, in the Ascott Metropolis (tel. 09/300-9595), offers fine dining with superb service and food that is almost impossible to fault.

Harbourside Seafood Bar & Grill, first floor, Ferry Building, Quay Street (tel. 09/307/0556), is a chic place with great views and seriously good seafood. Two others not to be missed are The Grove, St. Patrick's Square, 55 Albert St. (tel. 09/368-4129), a new, groovy favorite with terrific food; and O'Connell Street Bistro, O'Connell and Shortland streets (tel. 09/377-1884), a tiny but perfect 28-seat restaurant that's big on international style and flavors -- definitely a place for special moments. Soul, Hobson and Customs Street West (tel. 09/356-7249), is now an institution in a prime Viaduct Basin location with fabulous people-watching potential. Top chefs, an open-air style, and the best New Zealand fish anywhere make it a winner with international travelers and the business crowd.

For something entirely different, head for Partington's, in Langham Hotel (tel. 0800/616-261 in NZ), where a team of European chefs, Christofle silverware, Rosenthal plateware, handmade German crystal glasses, and an opulent decor combine to create an evening you'll never forget. Little wonder that it was awarded 2006 New Zealand Restaurant of the Year. Take a fat wallet.

In Ponsonby/Herne Bay

Expensive -- Try the upmarket Italian cafe Prego, 226 Ponsonby Rd. (tel. 09/376-3095).

The Healthy Stuff -- The organic lifestyle is catching on fast. The upmarket Total Wellbeing, 145 Ponsonby Rd. (tel. 09/378-2020), provides organic groceries and takeaway food items.

In Mount Eden/Epsom

Try One Tree Grill, 9 Pah Rd., Greenwoods Corner, Epsom (tel. 09/625-6407), a smart little restaurant with a cute-as-a-button bar upstairs. It's hugely popular with locals and has excellent service. GPK, 234 Dominion Rd., Mount Eden (tel. 09/623-1300), serves great pizzas and has a good bar atmosphere. Another highly recommended option is Bowmans, 597 Mount Eden Rd., Mount Eden (tel. 09/638-9676), which puts many Inner City establishments to shame with its top service and consistently good food. Molten, 42 Mount Eden Rd., Mount Eden (tel. 09/638-7236), is another suburban treasure producing great meals bound to impress.

Circus, Circus, 447 Mount Eden Rd., Mount Eden (tel. 09/623-3833) is a little gem filled with circus memorabilia and show posters, along with food and staff that make it worth visiting. Circus is a popular village haunt where you'll get a feel for the eclectic Mount Eden community.

In Parnell/Mission Bay/Newmarket

Expensive -- In contrast to Ponsonby's artsiness, Parnell attracts a trendy corporate crowd -- the work-hard, play-hard crew. The result is icons such as Veranda Bar & Grill, or VBG, 279 Parnell Rd. (tel. 09/309-6289), where expensive Pacific Rim cuisine and a party atmosphere reign supreme. For the finest dining in town, head for Antoines, 333 Parnell Rd. (tel. 09/379-8756), which attracts a well-heeled clientele with rich French cuisine and impeccable service; or Blowfish Sushi To Die For, 144 Parnell Rd. (tel. 09/357-3848), which specializes in Californian-Japanese fusion food served in a hip and unconventional environment. It's the only Blowfish Sushi outside of California. All of the above can be pricey, so go with a fat wallet.

Moderate -- In Newmarket, the Turkish Café, 80 Broadway (tel. 09/520-2794), has tasty Turkish and Middle Eastern dishes, plus Italian wood-fired pizzas served up in a contemporary interior, plus belly dancers on Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday nights. If you love Spanish food, try Tasca Newmarket, 8/25 Nuffield St. (tel. 09/522-4443); and Caffe Massimo, 23-27 Nuffield St. (tel. 09/522-6700), has excellent counter food, a lively atmosphere, and big windows open to the street.

In Remuera

New on the scene in Remuera is The Maple Room, 93-95 Upland Rd., Benson Road Village (tel. 09/522-1672), which is scoring big points for its tapas-style dishes and main courses like duck risotto and mint-and-chile lamb rump. It's open Monday through Friday from 11:30am until late, Sunday from 11am to late. Jada, 305 Remuera Rd. (tel. 09/522-2130), is a popular little Italian-style option in the main Remuera village. Sierra Café, Clonbern and Remuera roads (tel. 09/523-1527), is definitely the best cafe in the area, with amazingly good counter food. Pick up freshly baked pies, quiches, frittatas, and extravagant cakes for an over-the-top picnic. Tucked behind the Remuera shops, the Thai Village, 415 Remuera Rd. (tel. 09/523-3005), has a nice ambience and can always be trusted to deliver an excellent dining experience. Café Jazz, 563 Remuera Rd., Upland Village (tel. 09/524-0356), is another nice, moderately priced spot for lunch or a light evening meal. It offers standard New Zealand cafe fare, such as sandwiches, salads, and pizza.

In Devonport/Birkenhead

Another Devonport standout is Monsoon, 71 Victoria Rd. (tel. 09/445-4263), a snappy little Thai/Malaysian place. Because it's so popular, either go early or reserve. The catchily named Cod Piece, 26 Victoria Rd. (tel. 09/446-0877), serves up good old fish and chips and burgers. Birkenhead Point has a surprising array of eating choices. Hayashi, 261 Hinemoa St. (tel. 09/418-3011), is a standout Japanese restaurant that successfully mixes the traditional with contemporary flair. Mezze, 98 Hinemoa St. (tel. 09/480-1598), is a great little tapas bar and brasserie.

Manuka, 49 Victoria Rd. (tel. 09/445-7732), consistently delivers good light meals, terrific wood-fired pizzas, and home-smoked salmon and chicken. They have a special children's menu.