Getting There

By Plane -- The Auckland International Airport (tel. 0800/247-767 in NZ; www.auckland-airport.co.nz) is 21km (13 miles) south of the city, behind Manukau Harbour; a new motorway makes it a swift 30- to 35-minute car trip into town. More than 25 international airlines serve the airport. The Jean Batten International Terminal opened in 1998 and fresh from a NZ$100-million (US$71-million/£36-million) upgrade, it has doubled its retail space. The first thing to greet you is "A World of Shopping," almost 100 retail outlets before you even hit Customs and Immigration. Auckland is the only airport in the world with two competing duty-free agencies (DFS and Regency), so you'll get great deals on fashion, souvenirs, accessories, and New Zealand art and crafts.

From the terminal, proceed down the escalator to Customs and Immigration. If you're connecting to a domestic flight, before entering the arrivals hall, turn left into the Independent Travelers' Area, where you'll find Air New Zealand transfer desks. This area also contains the Auckland i-SITE Visitor Centre (tel. 09/367-6009; www.aucklandnz.com), rental-car companies, and currency exchange. For luggage storage, ask at the information center. A children's play area is on the second floor. If you want to rest between flights, take an airport dayroom, which includes a bed, shower, and desk and may be rented "airside" (after you pass through Immigration) between 5am and 11pm for around NZ$45 to NZ$65 (US$32-US$46/£16-£23); for information, visit The Collection Point (tel. 09/256-8845). If you feel like pampering yourself after a long flight, call in to the Traveller's Oasis (tel. 09/256-6167; www.auckland-airport.co.nz), between Oceanic and Art Port near the departure gates. It offers specialized treatments to prevent deep-vein thrombosis, plus therapeutic massage for face, body, and feet.

The Domestic Terminal is a 15-minute walk from the International Terminal. Simply follow the blue-and-white lines painted on the pavement. Alternatively, catch the free interterminal bus, which departs every 20 minutes between 6am and 10:30pm.

It's undergoing a NZ$42-million (US$30-million/£15-million) makeover, which will see significantly improved and enlarged retail and check-in areas and expanded security screening points. Another i-SITE Visitor Centre is in the Air New Zealand Terminal (tel. 09/367-6009). It's open daily 7am to 5pm.

The Airbus (tel. 0508/247-287 in NZ; www.airbus.co.nz) is the best value for transport between the airport and the city. It runs every 20 minutes between 5:50am and 6pm, and every 30 minutes between 6 and 10pm, calling at most major hotels and backpackers in the city. The fare is NZ$15 (US$11/£5.40) one-way, NZ$25 (US$18/£9) round-trip. If you're staying in a city hotel on the direct route, the driver will drop you off.

Taxis wait outside the airport terminal; the fare between the airport and city center is NZ$45 to NZ$50 (US$32-US$35/£16-£18) on weekdays, more on weekends and at night. Auckland Co-op Taxi (tel. 09/300-3000) is a reliable company.

Numerous shuttle companies will take you from the airport to your lodging for around NZ$25 (US$17/£9). Super Shuttle (tel. 0800/748-885 in NZ, or 09/306-3960; www.supershuttle.co.nz) and Auckland Airport Shuttle (tel. 09/576-8904) both offer reliable service.

By Train & Coach (Bus) -- The big news on the Auckland city transport scene is the opening of the Britomart Transport Exchange (tel. 09/366-6400; www.maxx.co.nz or www.veoliatransport.co.nz for local rail). Near the central business district, ferry terminals, and Central City bus stops, it has streamlined all transport services. It features a new underground transport center where intercity and commuter rail, buses, taxis, light rail, and ferry services all connect. The train system has undergone major changes, with the old Railway at Beach Street closing and services relocating to Britomart. There are five train platforms within Britomart, and trains depart from the same platform each day.

Most city buses have relocated to Britomart Bus Precinct, with a few exceptions. The Maxx website remains the best source of current information about these changes, and information centers also provide up-to-the-minute information. Most airport shuttles include Britomart in their circuits, and Inner City bus services like The Link and the free City Circuit also travel via Britomart. For more detailed information about current fares, see the section on "Getting Around".

The new center is open daily. It has storage lockers; electronic visual displays of departure and arrival times; camera security; a cafe, sushi bar, florist, and convenience store; tour operators; toilets; currency exchange; and ATMs.

For information on the Tranz Scenic trains that serve Auckland, contact TranzRail (tel. 0800/802-802 in NZ, or 09/366-6400). InterCity (tel. 09/913-6100) and Newmans (tel. 09/913-6200; www.newmanscoach.co.nz) buses arrive and depart from the SKYCITY Travel Centre Coach Terminal, 102 Hobson St. (tel. 09/913-6100).

By Car -- If you're driving, you will enter Auckland on State Highway 1 from the south, on the major motorway system. I advise you to call ahead to your hotel and ask which motorway exit to take. Traffic congestion is an issue in Auckland, especially during morning and evening rush hours. If you don't have to drive in the city, avoid it. Parking is also increasingly expensive.